Recent content by oldguy70

Did the pH meter thing for a year or so, gave it up....if it is always calibrated perfectly, cleaned, stored properly, it will work. My problem was the cost of calibration, storage, cleaning far exceeded what was needed using TF100 or K-2006c test kit.

I am in a similar situation, salt level around 4800, CH 1000...I would guess most people using liquid chlorine for a few years have no idea what their salt level is.

I use about 2 times as much acid in summer months vs winter months to keep pH 7.7-7.8 range.

With a CYA of 40 and in a non-SWG Pool, recommendation is FC 5-7 with a min of 3

I tell my young great grandchildren, if they pee in the pool, they will turn green, pool water stays nice and blue.

Yes...Hardness is 200, and their TA is 100

I thought that, even without running it rises about the same.

keep it at 50-60

I did a re-plaster in March 2015 and still fight rising pH at almost same rate for 2 years. This past weekend added Boric Acid and will see if that works a bit better.

I sit at the kitchen table to test, rinse at the sink, and I even wipe tube clean and dry afterwards, just me....I have also sat outside, rinsed in pool water, just move to next test and find No difference.

Buy the Taylor 'Standard' keeps your skills sharp in testing & accuracy.

sounds good, thanks

I always test pH first, I will leave it sit go on to test FC, then rince both tubes.....I always notice that the pH has risen say to 7.8 after initial test of 7.6 within just a couple of minutes....is this normal?

Patrick_B has got you covered, didn't notice his post Don't stop at 30 drops, keep going until clear...if using 10ml multiply by .5

Re: PH options Just my personal experience using a Hanna Digital pH tester...the care needed to have an accurate test is excessive, the probe needs constant cleaning, constant calibration, constant proper pH storage...and how you calibrate and to what you calibrate can be up to .3-.5 off. I...