Recent content by ogdento

hey you're welcome... i meant to include this link in case you haven't seen it... https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Valve_Actuators#Jandy_Valve_Actuator_Operation

[EDIT] I should have prefaced this with "run this test to be sure your valves are good" what i usually do to test a valve is connect it to Valve A (or B - but I'll use A for this example), and then: assign valve A to an Aux circuit hit the Aux button and make sure the valve rotates shut off...

Hey Blair it sounds like the indoor and outdoor mainboards are toast... I "think" I fixed your indoor for you once before... maybe a few years ago? indoor board: the "squeal" you're getting happens when the board pulls the supply voltage (black/red on the comm port) below 8 or so volts and the...

Hey @wgipe , I just looked at another dead i5p board and (so far) the bridge rectifier on the 18vac input is shorted (it's the one made up of 4 individual beefy diodes, just above the comm port connectors). In this case, the 3rd diode from the left has a nice crack and is shorted, and I think...

agh, thanks for asking them about the separate boards... I was nervous the first time I pulled one apart, but if they just told folks how to do it I like to think it would have gone better (I use a wooden popsicle stick near each connector to carefully pry the boards up - being careful to pry...

yyyikes! i could see from the back side image that the transformer also got hot, but those photos didn't show those scorch marks!! if you've got a multimeter, see if the primary shorted to the secondary or the gnd tab (the board is toast, this is more out of curiosity)

Thanks James! that's much easier than flipping between both pages ;) So the burn corresponds to the green resistor hiding behind c4

The one I had had traces that had actually melted away... which yours does not have. But comparing the back side image to the top side image, you can see (on the top-side photo - from page 1) that it's that large-ish power resistor in the top right corner (partly hidden by capacitor c4) that...

I don't recall @ajw22 's board doing any weird like clicking relays or drawing too much current... so I don't think his relay drivers blew (or at least they didn't blow short). I still have it here somewhere so I'll take a look. but for yours, when you hear the clicking do you see any aux leds...

Bummer. Sorry to hear that yours croaked. Do you recall any storm events the day before it died? The faint clicking is interesting... it's not great, but at least it's doing something. @ajw22 's board did nothing at all, and three other guys had holes blown in chips on the board. Do you...

hey guys I'm sorry but I don't have any experience with these heater boards (I don't have a heater). I have however seen a Fenwal board that looked great until I flipped it over and saw a bunch of burned traces on the back... is the back side of yours ok?

if the chips don't solve it, it may be worth looking at the microswitches inside the valve actuators... Valve Actuators - Further Reading

@Pieroz as Allen said they are only sold as a matched pair with that key. I wrote a post about how to reset the code on the "Quest" version of this link, but you've got the earlier "Viper" version that has a Microchip brand radio module... I haven't figured out how to reset those codes yet. I...

hey @Jeffrosmit the prices of these things are ridiculous... the Easytouch is obsolete as Pentair is pushing the Intellicenter. Personally, I would limp the ET along rather than upgrade to Intellicenter because 1. I'm cheap and 2. the ET is more durable and much easier to fix than the...