Recent content by mmcwhorter

And the only leak on the supply side is out of one of the Never Lube" ports. It's pretty slow. I already bought the parts to remove them all (6)....and replace with the proper threaded screw.

Yep, I was already thinking about posting pics...and for sure there are always bubbles up against the top of the lid when it's running. It's time for me to open up the diverters and apply some grease on the suction side anyway. At startup, I did the return side only, ran out of time that day...

I am opening ONLY two wall skimmers for suction from the pool. The deep-end suction is closed ....and also so is the Spa suction. In fact, in the current situation it's darn near impossible to get the thing started if I switch the valves to only deep-end suction. The leak reduces the pump head...

I agree. About 3 weeks ago I replaced the pump skimmer gasket...and greased it. The old one was not cracked but it appeared to be vertically compressed. I was hoping that was it. Then, I tightened the drain plugs, but did not replace last years teflon tape. Maybe I should back them out and...

I am seeing two very odd things with my pump-fliter system this year...and I am at a loss after some small degree of troubleshooting it. Everything "works" fine, the system operates, FC is produced by the IC-40, the system filters, etc... BUT:::::::: A- after a long Off Time, pump start-up...

As long as the water is above +65F, I have seen IC-40 produce between 2800 and 3800. My unit says 3600 is ideal. At low temps I have seen my IC-40 NOT produce FC at levels around 2800.

As an update, all is good. Pool water up to +70F since we finally got a little warmer weather...most mornings had been in the +43-45 range till 2-3 days ago. IC-40 has been working perfectly at 3600 PPM and any water temp +60F and above. Running IC-40 at 40% for about 7-8 hours/day: FC= 8-9...

InvaderZim: I highly recommend you buy a TF – 100 test kit and follow the links and YouTube instructions posted above. By that time you should have it all figured out.

well, I decided to do something "wild and crazy": I added salt to take it from 3200 to 3600. Why? The manual said salt reading was accurate to +/- 500 ppm, that's a lot of potential error. So I figured if the water was at 3200 ppm and it was reading minus 500, that's too low. Cold water or not...

I’d start thinking about excavating some kind of a mud barrier.

11 AM: Ran the spa closed loop from +54 up to +74. SALT light stayed red. Powered off the entire system, and removed the 4-pin connector from the power center. Put it back in after 10-15 seconds. Turned the system back on. Water temp at +74F. After a couple of minutes, SALT light GREEN. I...

I think I am still in diagnosis mode. See the temperature plot from last night's test in the pic. I powered the pump on around 6:45 PM last night, closed off the SPA to circulate, and set the heater to +65F from the +56 starting point. When the pump turns on, FLOW indicates good within a few...

Temp plot