Recent content by MaureenD

Thank you - I am not convinced. I will obviously keep an eye on it and see if it holds. These techs won’t talk to me, they talk to the dealer and he won’t press for a reason. Thank you again.

Ok guys - some funny stuff above. Sorry for the long delay. Got the Taylor salt test kit on Wednesday. Salt tested at 1800ppm. My test strip said 1750, the dip/osmosis test strip at the dealer said 1780 - maybe just lucky but regardless the salt is fine. So, yesterday I bit the bullet and added...

Yep - used an inline hose filter - thanks for the info though

Thanks - I hadn’t found this thread. I read through it. I think you guys are giving me good info so will wait on the salt kit before I proceed. BTW one of the people at my dealer actually agreed that she didn’t think it was the phosphate level so it appears I have an ally there.

Thanks - a lot to check and think about. I will query my husband about the electrical stuff buy we are both a little fried right now. I really appreciate your input. I will be sure to keep everyone updated on the progress. He is gone all day tomorrow so may not be for a few days. Salt test kit...

Wow JamesW, thanks. They convinced my husband, I will show him that

JamesW - sorry for the “snarky” - I was frustrated and tired and you must have missed my saying that I put in 9 new salt cells over a 3/4 week period. Ok, as of right now I plan on ordering the Taylor K-1766 kit and testing my source water for phosphates before I do anything else. You guys...

One more piece of info, the dealer uses AquaChek salt test strips - you leave them setting in the water for 10 min and then read the level on the calibrations. His result was 1780 ppm

James W Seriously?

Wow - a surge! I can’t answer all of these questions at the moment. And I know I am responding to multiple people but the more info the better. I did not speak to the mfg tech personally, the owner of our dealership was here for 2 hours repeating all the things we had done ourselves and a few...

Ok, I don’t know much about this stuff but from what I understand these systems “assume” the salinity level by measuring current through the cell. There’s no separate salinity sensor. The mfg stated that the high phosphate levels can screw with the current reading - hence the original question...

We went through all the electronics - meters, milliamps etc. switched out 9 salt cartridges (yes 9!) tested salt levels a dozen times (they never believe you) and then with their more accurate test (2x) and with their meter. The salt level is spot on. Swapped out the little black box - nope, had...

Phosphates tested at 1300 ppb, they want to see 300 ppb. So should I use a remover or change the water. It is causing the monitor to give me an error message saying the salt level is too high. Salt level tests perfect. Thanks for any help

Sorry I am just getting back here. You’re right about the CH, that number was from the dealers water test. I adjusted it a bit and got it to 50 from the TF100 and next dealer test a couple of days ago was 50. I will switch to Muriatic acid, it was my instinct based on everything I have read here...

Thank you for your response. - Oh my goodness, sorry, I wrote pH up instead of DOWN! Suspect that changes things. Yes, I have the salt test kit and the water is testing in the correct range. I understand I am not adding more salt to the water when I increase the output level on the display...