Recent content by Martinmartin

Heard some crazy noises this morning and found the heat pump spraying water. Looked inside and saw this tiny hose had popped off. Does anyone know what this is and what would cause it to malfunction? I added Orenda SC-1000 to the pool 2 days ago hoping it might help with rough plaster walls...

Thanks for following up. Are you referring to a no-drain acid wash? (I'm thinking it's not a good idea to drain the pool due to the calcium nodule issue we're facing) I may contact the plasterer, but my guess is they will hide behind "we have a 1 year warranty" and/or "this is caused by water...

Thank you very much for linking to those references! Good to know next time I go down this path... We used the pool for the 1st time over the weekend. While I was originally concerned about visual blemishes, after using the pool, now I'm worried about the incredibly rough plaster! (much rougher...

We re-plastered our Maryland pool in late 2019. Used a WetEdge Quartz product (link below). The pool was winterized shortly after the 'curing' period (~30-45 days after plastering). I brushed the pool and did my best to keep the water chemistry in line with WetEdge's 28 day startup guidelines...

Checked tonight after work. FC up to 5 CC 0 PH 7.4 So I think we're in good shape. I adjusted the pump run time down by 1 hour to 7 hours/day.

Tested again tonight after work. Pump was off, so I couldn't test the water coming out of the returns, but will try that this weekend if things still aren't right. FC up slightly to 2.5 CC 0 CYA 55-60 I increased the pump schedule by 2 hours. Will see if that makes a difference. Also, my pool...

Hi Richard, Thanks for the suggestions. The T Cell doesn't have any lights on it, but the Hayward Panel has no errors and it says "Generating Sanitizer" Unless I'm confused, the Hayward T Cell doesn't have a chamber that's visible (to check for bubbling). Maybe I'm missing something? Good...

I successfully SLAM'd the pool last week. On night 1 of the SLAM, FC went from 14 to 3.5. On night 2, it went from 34 to 33.5, which was a success. I left the SWG off for ~3 days in order to allow the FC to drop. Once it was ~8-14 (I can't remember exactly), I turned the SWG back on at 60%...

Thanks! Yes, CC was 0 (no change when I added the drops). Should I turn the swg off until the FC gets down to normal ranges?

Success! Measured FC at 630am ~34. Turned the SWG back on - will have to play with the % and pump run time now that the chemistry should be good (or on its way). About how long does it take for the FC to drift down to its normal level? When can I proceed with water tests that aren't thrown...

Yes, pool is clear. Got it. I added 4 more jugs of clorox in an attempt to get FC up from 14 to ~28. Seems I over shot it as I just measured tonight (~3 hours after adding the bleach) and it was 35. Will check again in the morning to see how far the 35 comes down. 14 jugs so far - I think...

Measured when I got home this evening - around 530. FC 14 CC <.5 Not sure if I should bring back up to 28? Or measure when dark and then compare tomorrow morning. Should filter run all night? Thanks for helping me learn how to SLAM.

Thanks Patrick. If the option is to either drain the water and refill - or buy/haul more bleach, I'll go with more bleach. We're on a well and it has a relatively low yield. I bought the bleach in 3 packs at Costco, price is reasonable. Next time I'll lower the PH first - I thought my starting...

Oops, I forgot to mention that it's a saltwater pool (I've updated my signature). According to this chart, I think CYA of 70-80 is ok? The PH was 7.5-7.6 (and I already added the Chlorine) - maybe I'll add a little Muriatic Acid after work? On the SLAM page, it says 7.2-7.5 is ideal. Thanks!