Recent content by lallyloo

Thanks everyone for your replies. I considered changing the main board, but at $288 cad from amazon I’ll wait until it actually needs replacing. It’s been going strong since 2008, with only replacing the cell once. When I need to replace the cell, I’ll look into changing to a t15. I’m...

Thank you, thank you! Finally a wiring diagram that I understand! Okay, based on this diagram, I have a new plan. I will disconnect the power cord from the swg and instead connect to the the timer, hot(black) going to 7, and the neutral as a pass through to the swg to terminal 1. Ground...

Great. I just want to clarify what I think are the connections. Instead of using a jumper to power circuit 3, I use an additional 240 line into to the timer. Do I connect just the green wire (neutral) to terminal 7 or use either of the new black or white wires as well? Do I terminate each...

Thanks for the replies. Here are the requested photos. I have two 240V outlets which were originally setup one for the single speed pump and one for the heater, with an on/off toggle switch. One of the outlets is now used to power the timer and the other is usually free (especially since the...

Hi Again. When I took off the cover from the aquarite to look at the circuit board, it doesn't have the screw connectors for the power supply numbered from 1 to 4 with the jumpers that can be moved. It is a corded model for the Canadian market that was probably 120V off the shelf. I did not...

Thank you! I will do this.

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the pump is 230V. The SWG can be changed to 230V, if so on what terminals would I make the connections so that it comes on only when the pump is on low? Does this also mean that any auxiliary load that I put on circuit 3 would also have to be 230V? Alison

Hello, Today, I successfully wired my 2 speed Hayward 1Hp Superpump to the PE153 timer in Mode 2 according to the wiring diagram below. I would also like to run my Aquarite Swim pure plus so that it only comes on while the pump is on low. It is currently set to 120V source wiring and is...

You mean like a couple of pieces of round flat plastic salveged from the recycling bin for the top and bottom of the cracked surface?

Great! Would this stuff do the trick?