Recent content by Keatingkev1768

Thanks for your time

Easy enough , so when the black dot is completely gone take that number and add 10 . So if the dot is gone at 70 my cya would be 60 ? Or by adding do you mean it would be 80 ?

One last question , when I test my cya it’s hard to tell with my eyes or feel like they’re playing tricks because I swear I can’t see the black dot but then if I look hard enough I can see the slightest outline of it if I try hard enough . Any tips to make sure I am at what I think I am ?

Yes I am now using pool math from this app . Going to target 8-10 fc and not let it get below 5ppm with current 70 cya level . I’ll continue to do what you said with PH and leave TA alone but still check it . I’m glad I found this info and this app because where is so much bad info out there .

Ok great , thanks for the help and knowledge .

Ok I didn’t realize that , I’ll get it 30-60 . So my current 70 is not so bad then . I’m learning .

Ok thanks for the quick reply . I thought I read somewhere to subtract a third of what cya is from TA . Thanks for the great info , I will do this .

Ok thanks for the reply , I lowered it down to 7.4 but according to pool math 7.8 is ok . It’s good to know that the test becomes unreliable above 10 ppm fc . Next season I plan to get cya down to 30-40 so I don’t have to use so much chlorine .

I’m using a Taylor k-2006 to test and my TA was 90 . I did lower my PH down to 7.4 today . Since my cya is high at 70 does it affect what my TA should be ?

Hello , my CYA is 70 because I was floating tabs after I added stabilizer to get pool to 30 . I know now and use liquid chlorine at 12.5 % I know my target levels is 8-10 and no less than 5 for free chlorine now but since I’m running higher chlorine Ppm it’s harder to know where my PH is cause...