Recent content by kchinger

Good point. I'm probably making a LOT less chlorine over 7 years than someone in Texas would be. Not just that I'm closed for 6+ months, but it's colder overall.

So I called Circupool just to see if the 7 year prorating warranty was in year 7 or the first 7 years (if that makes sense). I'm just a few weeks outside the warranty I think, but they're giving me 20% off anyway which is what the warranty would've been, so I'm just gonna go ahead and order that...

It appears I have the same thing you do. I went out today to grab the S/N and it was perfectly happy again. No lights at all. Probably the shutoff overnight kinda reset it I guess. I took a picture, I don't see anything at all really, looks pretty good to me. Maybe I'll let it limp through the...

I did an acid bath two years ago when this happened and was able to get some more time out of it. Is there a way to tell if it's time to actually replace it, or if I can just acid bath it again and get some more time out of it? Is there a better time of year to replace it? Like, should I just...

All fuses are one and done, by definition :). I tried to look up how it works, I'm assuming that fuse just gets super hot from the flame touching it, and melts internally?

For anyone swinging by, I'm 99% sure it's actually the flame rollout switch, and that's what it's supposed to look like.

Ok, update. I fixed it (99% sure this time). It wasn't the IID, the new one I got from ebay ($38) showed the same dead short, but I put it in anyway. It must not be a true a short, just when it doesn't have power it shows that, probably an inductor or transformer or something. But now I have a...

The IID, while disconnected from the board, shows a dead short between the 24V hot and 24V ground pins. I'm guessing that's the issue. The only fix then is to replace that spark controller, but I think that's like $250+? Not worth it I assume. The entire thing is rusty and in pretty rough shape...

The headers are the metal things that the pipe connects to outside the heater? And continuity between them and a ground on say the gas valve is good or bad? Not sure I fully followed, sorry. I am an electrical engineer but it's not my day to day, lol, and certainly not pool heaters.

Ordered a replacement for the amazon transformer, since it was slightly cracked on the plastic housing when it got here, maybe it had some damage that killed it after a bit. I don't see any signs of damage on the board, IID, or gas valve. There's a burned spot on one of the 24V leads, but it's...

Yeah, it was a 40VA 240V/24V (although it tested out at about 28V but I think that's fine under no load). I couldn't find the VA on the old one, but it was Class 2 so I assume probably 40VA as well. Maybe I undersized it though. Do you know where I can find the specs somewhere? The Raypak listed...

@1poolman1 ok, so that was short lived. Something killed it again after less than a day. I assume the transformer again. Any ideas where I should start troubleshooting what's killing the transformer? I assume it must be something shorting occasionally? Or maybe the transformer is overheating due...

It was literally $20, lol. 24V transformer died. $18 on Amazon and less than an hour total to diagnose and repair and I'm back in business. I have 2 sheet metal screws left over, but you can't win them all. Hopefully it'll soldier on another year. I've already done the board, low pressure...