Recent content by jrbevis

Thank you

Water from the tap has a CH of 100. I just refilled my pool, but I'm SLAMing out of an abundance of caution. Before refilling my pool, there were about 100 gallons left that my sump could not pump out. That existing water started to grow algae. I decided to SLAM to take care of it.

Hi, I'm currently slamming my pool. My target FC level is 28. Is it true that with high FC levels, PH readings are not accurate? I'm curious because I need to lower my TA, but I can't do that without accurate PH readings. Is it possible to SLAM and lower TA at the same time? Also, my CH is 100...

Thanks

Is anyone else having this issue with tftestkits website? Happens on my phone, computer and a buddies phone and computer.

Hello all, I'm in the process of draining a portion of my pool to correct for high my pool to for high CH. My question is... I understand that the ideal CH is between 350-550 and recommended is between 250-650. I assume it's best to drain enough water for a target CH of 250. Is that accurate? Thanks

Roger that, thx.

I do indeed

Hello everyone, Towards the end of last year, I started to get this staining above the water line in my pool. I accidentally let my CH get too high because I wasn't doing the test correctly and I believe that's what led to my problem. I'm curious if anyone has a solution to remove this staining...

I can't explain that all summer long adding 14-16 drops of R-0012 is what it took to achieve full blue. My fill water as of last week (which wasn't much different than my previous results). PH 8.3 TA 160 CH 225 FC .5 CC .5

I'm using city water that is not softened. Out of the tap, it averages CH of 225.

Good to know. I was just following what the app told me to do.

I'm using the Taylor test kit. On my last test, the color did not change to full red at 5 drops. It was also noticeable that 6 drops were not required to make the final change to red. Resulting in my reading of 55.