Recent content by JoannaB

If I subtract the last drop added after the color stopped changing, as per instructions, the new TA would be 80. Here is a photo against a white computer screen.

Followed your suggestions above. It took 3 total drops after the initial color change before it stopped changing. Here's a photo of my PH results.

I'm using 5 drops of the R-0004 in the larger 44 ml round test cell. Re TA test, Once the color changes to red, I stop adding drops. This is the instruction on the test kit.

yes. PH Indicator solution (phenol red)

It's a K-2006. I'm only using the red stuff to test PH . I just tested the fill water. For PH, the water turns a bright orange (rather than bright pink like my pool water) . It doesn't match anything on the color scale, but looks like it could be between 7.6 and 7.8. TA is 30.

No new plaster work.

Hi all, I have reviewed other threads on this topic and I've tried everything suggested but my PH still drifts high only a day or 2 after lowering it w/muriatic acid. My pool Ph is almost always 8.1 or higher. I've added borates to help stabilize but no effect. Lower TA, no effect. My pool is...

I've been looking at the Pool Blaster Max. That might help with the pile of debris that collects at the very bottom of the pool and my Polaris could continue to limp along for awhile

5 years after my last post about my circa 2011 Polaris 280, it's finally going belly up on us. We've replaced parts as they fail but at this point we can't figure out the problem. The cleaner floats around the pool barely touching the bottom, at only 24 rpm. Takes about 8-10 hours to...

You mean the two pipes with the red valve handles in the open position? One is marked SKIM and the other MD (ie main drain I assume)

Here it is. What does it tell you?