Recent content by jccams

Well I had it up to slam levels for 48 hours and the water was crystal clear the whole time so that doesn't work. It is a vinyl liner pool so I cannot drain and refill, it would be multiple partial drains and refills. Sounds like what I'm hearing is there is really no way to get the iron out...

I think I am bad at conveying what is going on. I had this pool built 17 years ago, at that time water was also trucked in and I added fill water from my well for 16 years and never had an issue. I have next to no iron in my well water as confirmed more than once by people trying to sell me...

Seems to be some confusion here, maybe I was not clear. The water in the pool is NOT from my well, it was trucked in. I did however use fill water from my well for 16 years and never had this issue. I would like to not have to clean the steps and swim out weekly and get back to the way it...

I only have one skimmer, If I am understanding correctly you put the polyfill in the skimmer. How tight do you pack it? Obviously my first choice is to remove the iron.

I hope you folks can help me again. Here is the story. I replaced a 16 year old liner in my inground pool end of June 2019. About 2 or 3 weeks after the 24,000 gallons of new water was put in I noticed the steps and swim out were turning brown. Against my better judgment and probably most of...

The water is brought in dedicated tanker trucks and was brought from two different locations. My pool guy uses him exclusively and claims no other problems. Yes when I backwash I have to replenish with fresh DE, but I did not immediately after the pool was filled because I did it the day...

The water was brought in on tanker trucks so the water in the pool is the fill water, as said pool store saw no metals on test results.

I had my liner replaced end of June and obviously had all new water trucked in. About 3 weeks later I noticed my steps and swim out were turning brown. Using a magic eraser I was able to clean them with the exception of right at the water line. I added a small amount of ascorbic acid to the...

I'm also in Mi and we tend to close about mid September and open mid May. I bring the pool to shock level add a bottle of algaecide and put the cover on. I've done it this way even with the water in the mid 60's and always open up to a perfectly clear pool. I agree though the colder you can...

Remember that the PH test is not accurate when FC is over 10.

Got 3 chipmunks so far this year. I would recommend checking the skimmer more than once a week though.

I pay $275 which includes installation of my loop-loc cover in SE MI. I take care of balancing the chemicals myself.

Not sure this is in the right forum but here goes. I have a 12 year old loop loc safety cover and some of the stitching is coming out of the straps so they are no longer attached to the cover in spots. There is also about a dime sized hole in one spot. I would like to get this repaired and am...

What I found with my PH drift was that my pool likes the TA down around 60, once that happened I never had any PH drift, rock solid. So I guess what I'm saying is a fine TA # for my pool that keeps PH stable may not be appropriate in yours. My experience tells me that once the TA is right for...

I too use to fight the constant PH rise. This year when I opened my TA was 60, lower than years past. I didn't adjust TA and to my surprise PH started at 7.6 and hasn't moved in 6 weeks. I'm leaving TA alone.