Recent content by JasonLion

Something turned off e-mail notifications when I get private messages, and I had to go in and manually turn it back on. This is the third user setting that has been changed out from under me, which is getting kind of annoying.

Assuming it is in good condition, your filter is fine with the pump you have, or any plausible replacement pump. The pump is certainly fine for the pool alone. There isn't enough information here to be sure it is sufficient for the spa, which varies a lot with spa design, but presumably it will...

Welcome to TFP! There isn't normally any reason to use a second pump in a solar setup. You would only do that if the plumbing run to the solar panels is especially long or they are mounted more than two stories above ground. I recommend sticking with the pump you have now, and simply having...

The preferred valve positions depend on what you are trying to do. Normally you would have as little water going to the pool cleaner as possible so that the pool cleaner still runs at it's design speed. Meanwhile the suction valves would typically be setup so that water is drawn from all three...

It will still be fine, though if it has clumped together it might dissolve very very slowly.

The most common way to get DE into the pool is when there are small holes or tears if the filter grid fabric. It is also possible to get DE into the pool if you fail to rinse after backwashing, or if there is a leak in the pumping that allows the filter to drain down when the pump is off.

The valve directly above the pump controls water flow to the pool cleaner vs to the pool returns. The valves in front of the pump are a little less obvious. I suspect the one closer to the pump controls main drain vs returns, and the other one slightly to the side picks between two different...

PH Increaser is soda ash. We don't recommend relying on test strips. Still, the PH test is often the most reliable of the various tests that are available on test strips. Don't raise the PH all in one step. PoolMath is not reliable for calculating very large PH changes, especially if the PH...

The iAqualink doesn't have any support for additional water temperature sensors. If you don't have a solar system you can sometimes repurpose the solar sensor connector. Often it is simpler to use a completely separate temperature sensor, one that is not connected to the iAqualink.

LED rope lighting does not meet electrical code for use close to the water. For the underwater lights, it is a question of how large the mounting fixture is. Most fiberoptic lights have very small mountings at the pool end and it is often impossible to find an underwater rated LED fixture that...

There are various versions of the NEC code, only some of which (the newer editions) require bonding for that pool. Different areas update their code requirements at different times, and are often on older versions of the code. Still, it is generally a good idea to bond the pool even if you don't...

In the short run that is fine. But you shouldn't leave it that way long term. If the flow sensor in the SWG ever fails, and they do tend to fail eventually, there could be an explosion hazard. It is always best to have something additional that shuts down the SWG when the pump is not running...

Unfortunately, there are many possibilities. Here are some of the more obvious ones. If the PH sensor ever dried out it could be ruined. The cap should have been full of water when you received it. Any chance you have the PH and ORP sensor wires switched? The PH sensor wire might not be...

Welcome to TFP! Using adapters to change the pipe size near the heater is totally fine.

Several people here have done that, though Stenner pumps are a lot more popular.