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Something turned off e-mail notifications when I get private messages, and I had to go in and manually turn it back on. This is the third user setting that has been changed out from under me, which is getting kind of annoying.

Assuming it is in good condition, your filter is fine with the pump you have, or any plausible replacement pump. The pump is certainly fine for the pool alone. There isn't enough information here to be sure it is sufficient for the spa, which varies a lot with spa design, but presumably it will...

Welcome to TFP! There isn't normally any reason to use a second pump in a solar setup. You would only do that if the plumbing run to the solar panels is especially long or they are mounted more than two stories above ground. I recommend sticking with the pump you have now, and simply having...

The preferred valve positions depend on what you are trying to do. Normally you would have as little water going to the pool cleaner as possible so that the pool cleaner still runs at it's design speed. Meanwhile the suction valves would typically be setup so that water is drawn from all three...

It will still be fine, though if it has clumped together it might dissolve very very slowly.

The most common way to get DE into the pool is when there are small holes or tears if the filter grid fabric. It is also possible to get DE into the pool if you fail to rinse after backwashing, or if there is a leak in the pumping that allows the filter to drain down when the pump is off.

The valve directly above the pump controls water flow to the pool cleaner vs to the pool returns. The valves in front of the pump are a little less obvious. I suspect the one closer to the pump controls main drain vs returns, and the other one slightly to the side picks between two different...

PH Increaser is soda ash. We don't recommend relying on test strips. Still, the PH test is often the most reliable of the various tests that are available on test strips. Don't raise the PH all in one step. PoolMath is not reliable for calculating very large PH changes, especially if the PH...

The iAqualink doesn't have any support for additional water temperature sensors. If you don't have a solar system you can sometimes repurpose the solar sensor connector. Often it is simpler to use a completely separate temperature sensor, one that is not connected to the iAqualink.

LED rope lighting does not meet electrical code for use close to the water. For the underwater lights, it is a question of how large the mounting fixture is. Most fiberoptic lights have very small mountings at the pool end and it is often impossible to find an underwater rated LED fixture that...

There are various versions of the NEC code, only some of which (the newer editions) require bonding for that pool. Different areas update their code requirements at different times, and are often on older versions of the code. Still, it is generally a good idea to bond the pool even if you don't...

In the short run that is fine. But you shouldn't leave it that way long term. If the flow sensor in the SWG ever fails, and they do tend to fail eventually, there could be an explosion hazard. It is always best to have something additional that shuts down the SWG when the pump is not running...

Unfortunately, there are many possibilities. Here are some of the more obvious ones. If the PH sensor ever dried out it could be ruined. The cap should have been full of water when you received it. Any chance you have the PH and ORP sensor wires switched? The PH sensor wire might not be...

Welcome to TFP! Using adapters to change the pipe size near the heater is totally fine.

Several people here have done that, though Stenner pumps are a lot more popular.

Borates below 30 are harmless, but considered ineffective. Borates above 50 or so exceed the (very conservative) epa limit. Borates up to 80 is considered normal for baqua pools, so nothing dramatic starts happening right at 50. For a chlorine pool there is no real point in going over 50, and if...

Welcome to TFP! That should be alright. A Hayward Super Pump shouldn't have any problem with that distance.

Welcome to TFP!

You either get an appropriate water test kit, or you have a pool store test the water for you. We recommend getting your own test kit, as pool store results are often quite inconsistent.

Welcome to TFP! CC above 0.5 means you should SLAM.

Depending on which form of CC is present, and what the CYA level is, there is a significant chance that the CC would not be oxidized quickly enough for this procedure to be useful/practical. Also, as a general rule, adding complexity tends to come back to bite you in unexpected ways.

Welcome to TFP! Assuming you have a simple pool, with no spa or large water feature, a smaller pump, like a 1 HP, would be a better fit. Ideally you want a two speed pump. Timers are usually sold separately. A suitable timer would allow you to run the pump for say an hour, four times a day...

If you have the typical high California electricity rates your best choice is likely to be one of the smaller variable speed pumps, like the Hayward MaxFlo VS or something similar. This is assuming you don't have a spa, large water feature, or automation system, any one of which would steer...

Welcome to TFP! A wired indoor panel is very easy to setup, basically just run the wire from the new panel out to the main control box and you are done. There shouldn't be any firmware conflicts.

You don't want any rain while pouring concrete/vermiculite or for roughly two hours afterwards. After that rain is fine. So if the can get it done in the morning, and it doesn't rain until afternoon they might be alright.

Your pump should be fine with the added return line.

Doing the CYA test in artificial light will result in the test reading mistakenly high. Indirect sunlight is important for the test to be correct. The brighter light makes it easier to see the black dot, meaning you fill the tube to a higher level, and thus get a lower reading. The test is...

Your upper diagram is alright, but could be simplified quite a bit. The lower diagram is difficult to check, it looks wrong, but I can't be sure. To simplify the upper diagram: you can have simple straight runs for supply and return, with a T going off to each panel (except a 90 for the end...

Welcome to TFP! Yes, that is possible, but I don't recommend it. The moment you loosen the old fitting water starts streaming out through the hole, getting fairly intense as you are trying to get the new fitting into place. Yes, it can be done, but at best you lose a fair bit of water and have...

1) I guess around 25k gallons. You don't need to be exact, and can adjust your guess over time. 2) CYA being very high is likely, but sometimes CYA vanishes over the winter, so you never know. 3) A two speed pump will have the lowest lifetime cost, and a 1 HP will be sufficient for a plain pool...