Recent content by hismusicnme

Also, for clarification, I followed the "Use 25 ml of pool water, 20 drops of R-0010, 5 drops of R-0011L, and multiply the number of drops of R-0012 by 10 to get your CH level" directions. Not the 10 ml of pool water one

I tested it again - Color started to change after 6 drops of R-0012 and had a full change (from pinky/purple to blue) at 7 drops. So, times that by 10 and I get 70 ppm. Just for kicks, I kept adding single drops of the R-0012 until I got to a count of 70 (aka 700 ppm) with absolutely no other...

And btw, I will test my CH again just to make sure.

Thanks guys! And to clear any suspicions about the CH reading.... Yeah, I'm sure it's 70. It's a brand new test from tftests.net and also very very close to the reading Leslie's Pool Supply gave me (their reading was 60). They also didn't seem baffled by it. I wouldn't say our water here is hard...

I'm uncertain about the order of which to add several chemicals that are needed. Other than the usually daily check and likely need for Bleach and possibly Muriatic Acid, the pool needs more Stabilizer, Calcium Hardness Increaser, Phospate Reducer, and also salt. We have a SWG that has been out...

Oops! Haha. That IS what I did, just said it backwards. My bad. Also, for the record, They had my CyA off too, I figured I likely had next to nothing since I only added one gallon of liquid stabilizer to my 24,000 gallon pool with a zero reading originally. I figured it was better to undershoot...

UPDATE: I received my Taylor Salt Test, and I was only able to put one single drop of the Chromate Indicator in there before it turned Salmon colored. Wow. I have only 200 ppm of salt in my pool. I tested it twice to make sure and got the same reading. I'm not sure where Leslie's Pool Supply was...

Thanks James for the test kit link. I really appreciate that. I'm going to order the parts needed for the CyA test, chemical Salt Level test, as well as for Calcium Hardness. Since I do NOT trust Leslie's Pool Supply, the other pool store I do like is across town and there is going to be some...

BTW - I realized I didn't mention this, which is important. I AM testing the water at home, it's just that it is only a 5-way chemical tester. I can test FC/Bromine/PH/TA/Acid demand and that's about it.

"The k-1766 isn't that expensive. I think that it's worth getting but it's your choice." How much is the k-1766, where do I get it, and what's in it? "How much acid and liquid chlorine have been added since refill?" The refill was 3-1/2 weeks ago (less time has passed than I previously...

My FC is perfect, and I realize the CH is a bit low. Everything else is on point. Once we start the SWG, I will up the CYA (which I have here and ready to go). Pool is looking good and not giving me any trouble. The salt though is just weird. I will take it to the other more trust worthy pool...

We are putting our home up for sale in about 4 weeks (and we anticipate a quick sale). The fact that we are not looking for a new house with a pool, it wouldn't make financial sense to purchase a different kit at this point in time. If I was staying... for sure, but not right now.

As I mentioned in my post, my SWG is under repair, so not in use. We tested the salt because I wanted to calibrate it and get it back online. My current SWG would Not be a good indicator for any true salinity test.

Thanks guys for your input. Here's the dealio. We are putting the house up for sale in about a month and I don't anticipate buying another home with a pool (it may happen, just not looking for it). I don't want to drop $100 on a test kit that I will no longer need in a month or two. It doesn't...

Hey everyone, I'm a newbie here. Well, we drained our pool, had it chlorine washed and the tile bead blasted. We filled the pool back up with hose water and I have been using liquid chlorine bleach as suggested here on the site. We actually have a SWG system, however we are in the midst of...