Recent content by gatorson

Correct, filled to 10mL. Reading 6000

I have an ichlor 30 that has been showing a blinking red light, indicating low salt. I’ve tested my salt with a Taylor kit and it is reading >5000 ppm. Too high. I’m working on getting the salt level corrected by draining but I also need my SWG to work. I replaced the flow switch twice - one...

My previous plumber installed my sediment trap about 6 feet away from the inlet of the heater (directly out of the source line). He also installed a regulator/governor and reduced down to 1/2" pipe for a length of about 6ft to my 400k NG raypak heater (the distance from the meter to the...

Yes, it is pretty cheap ~$500. From the replies it seems like it may be more of a hassle than it's worth. I've also reached out to a Raypak rep and he said the igniter/orifice would obviously also need to be replaced and it is in a very tricky location to do so. Thanks for all the feedback...

I've done a little more research and it seems that this model of professional series uses a fan blower. I was looking at the schematics here and it shows that there is only 1 gas valve orifice for either propane vs NG. Is this similar to other blower style heaters where just this 1 orifice...

Thanks - I forgot about the board tab - I'm assuming I could also move over my NG board from my current Raypak as well? Is there any other way to replace/short the broken tab, I think it would be aggravating to have the heater continuously locking out after only one attempt at lighting. My...

OK Guys, I have an interesting situation. I currently have a 15 yr old Raypak 406a P-M406A-EN-C natural gas that needs replacement; it fires up properly but the firewall is so old it overheats. Here's the situation - I've found a professional series 409a that is propane B-R409A-EP-X. Would I...

Thanks for the replies. I agree that the heater is in need of a total replacement soon. However, for those interested I think you guys were spot on regarding the ground connection. I ended up replacing the pilot bracket and screw holding the ground wire and that seemed to solve the issue.

Hi, I'm receiving a hi limit 1 error after the water temperature hits about 95 degrees F. The unit door gets pretty warm to the touch. I recently replaced the unitherm governer but not the bypass. I believe the hi limit is working properly considering the unit itself is becoming warm...

I agree that the heater has had a pretty good 14 year run. I did replace the pilot / pilot tubing / and pilot bracket since these are relatively cheap parts to fix and to my surprise the heater works again. I think the pilot was shorting out or had a bad ground since the pilot bracket was full...

Supply Voltage is 24V Run time ~700 Cycle count ~2200 All faults 1-10 read "Main Ignition Failure"

Flame strength indicator will fluctuate between 6 and 7 when lit, and then 0 when the burners go out completely.

My flame strength shows 6 "Good" when lit and my error codes 1 thru 10 all read "Main Ignition Failure". I agree that the heater will need to be replaced at some point but am hoping to get a little longer out of it for $100 vs $2k.

Hello everyone, I have a natural gas 406a Raypak/Rheem heater continuously cycling after starting up. The first time the heater sparks and calls for heat the heater will stay lit for sometimes a couple minutes. After this time period the burners will go out, but the pilot will stay lit...

Update: it turned out to be a completely missing unitherm governor (someone before me, I guess, had removed it as some point) - this caused excessive condensation which resulted in dripping on the pilot/burners. It was enough condensation to keep extinguishing the pilot. After installing the...