Recent content by elmoco

absolutely. takes me back to the days of adding "overhaul in a can" to a bad engine to get the last few miles out of it

I did remove the cell to inspect but the crack is not visible. it seems the leak is coming from under the flow sensor mounting bracket (not sure what to call it) or between that black bracket and the cell casing. I like your idea of taking Plast-Aid to that entire section to see if it helps...

hi. I did take off the flow sensor and re-tefloned it. however, the leak is actually coming from the under the black part of its casing where the flow sensor screws into. so it may be a crack in the casing itself :-(

excellent. thanks for this...

hi, I have a small leak coming from the top of the SWG (see picture). there's a plastic nut (~5/8" it seems) below the cabling (not seen in picture). I believe it's the flow sensor. does anyone know if this can be tightened to help with the leak? thanks

done. great site and very valuable resource. well-worth the donation. thanks!

Similar to JB. This is a one-time solution. If I need to replace a seal, I probably wouldn’t be able to seal it right again. Not a bad idea. I also thought of rigging a pipe band strap if needed.

i figured. and you're right, i'll try the JB weld or super glue/cement approach as last resort. but that would be the last fix since upon removing the screw the JB weld would break. thanks

Hi. This is a long shot - is there a fix or “hack” to address this crack? It’s not leaking even though it’s on the return side (more pressure), but I’m sure it’ll finish breaking at some point. I really want to avoid replacing the valve (no pipe slack). Thanks.

Hi. First off, 1000 times “thanks” to all the feedback/answers I’ve received from this forum. While this may come across as a low-key brag, I’m offering my experience with my own pool automation results. I wired an ESP32-based Pool Controller, and using ESPHome and Home Assistant (HA), I exposed...

perfect. thanks!

But the built in limits only apply with the manual levers. the actuator sits over those. I agree with the other comments that if the actuator were to fail somehow and block the inlet (in my case), the pump would run dry. if this was the return line, you're right, the risk is deadhead if the...

sorry, really not following. let me try again. currently the valve lids (not covers as i mentioned above) are positioned in such a way that the actuator would line up is Figure I. If i mount them like that, the actuators wont fit next to each other. so i need the mounting holes to be lined...