Recent content by e_sully

Thanks. Was gratifying to be in the hot tub the same day the parts arrived. Will be in the pool this weekend as we will hit 87 (finally). Thanks to TFP for the guidance to have such as smooth opening and a clean, safe pool.

Spring is here and I thought I would follow up on the process for closing and opening an inground gunite pool with the equipment pad bellow the water line. A few changes to what I proposed back in August (using the same numbering above): Pool - 1. I drained about 2 inches below tile. When I...

No, those are old school niche lights. I switched from conventional bulbs to LED using the J&J bulbs. As far as I can tell, their nicheless lights (VU series) are not compatible with 3rd party automation systems.

I've only purchased the J&J LED bulbs (actually called Color Splash LXG-W series) and they are quite reasonable. I recall the spa bulb is about $150 and the pool about $250. These just screwed into my existing fixtures (Hayward Astrolite) with new gaskets. They've been running great for the...

Just had this exact discussion recently. My read of the consensus is that it probably doesn't matter much. I put it after as I have a check valve after the SWCG and if the injector goes berserk, this will protect the SWCG from getting flooded with acid...

Great replies so far. Thanks @Rattus Suffocatus, @santacruzpool, and @CaptainCannonball for your thoughts. It does sound like it probably makes no difference whether it is before or after the SWCG. I'm still leaning towards after the SWCG since I have a check valve there in case of an...

Installing an acid injection system (Hayward AQL-CHEM4-ACID but without the Hayward control, just manual dosing using schedule on Aqualink). Will be using 1:4 diluted 31.45% acid (so about 8%). Searching through the forum, I see the opinions over the years have varied. Some frequent posters...

My Betta has been going strong since June 1. Only thing I had to do was add a metal rod they sent me to avoid getting stuck on a shallow top step. I have the latest version and so far have not needed any replacement.

Will do!

Just got off the excellent Zoom on winterizing. Thanks to all the contributors. Wanted to get some help in planning for my particular situation please. I've lived in the house with this pool for 1 year. I had a company close the pool last season but didn't really pay enough attention to do it...

This is my second pool with J&J bulbs. I use them every night for 4-5 hours. I ran them in my last pool for 3-4 years without issue. Only had this pool about a year, but so far so good.

I replaced all my incandescent lights with LED by purchasing J&J (Halco) bulbs and installing in my existing fixtures using new gaskets (that is important to avoid leaks). I switched everything to 12V by adding a transformer near my panel. There is a lot of interest on this site in Florida...

I wrote a review of the Water Tech Volt 550Li. I've been enjoying it and it seems to clean well. The battery is much larger than the Amazon offerings (though the price is also much higher). https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/water-tech-volt-550-li-cordless-robot.213153/

Do the Sunseeker or CMP lights emulate Jandy? When I replaced mine, I used J&J Color Splash XG lights since they will work directly with Aqualink (i.e. they have a similar color mapping and total number of color choices). I had contacted Florida Sunseeker at the time and they said they don't...

My mistake, didn't see the red wire (for some reason). Yes, probably the lights. Wouldn't the pump itself need to be grounded? My ground wire runs into the panel, but my panel includes a subpanel. Anyway, don't want to add confusion. The automatic valves don't use the relays, they are 24V...