Recent content by carlos31

I didn't want to spend the extra money without good reason, so thanks for your response.

My pool is 38,000 gallons and I was wondering if I should go with the SC48 or the SC60? I do run my pool pump 24x7 at a low speed. Ideally, 27 GPM to give me one turnover per day. Can anyone with autopilot experience advise if I should right size or go a little larger than needed? Thank you,

I was very close to getting an AutoPilot but thought I would try the cheap route first and see how much I would be spending on water refreshes. My concern about the salt chlorinators is the same as the 320; my pump speed. I am currently at 45gpm (I run my pump 24x7 with the theory that long...

Thanks, I will try it with air in the canister. Maybe having the canister full of water reduces the aggitation of the water and tablets. I am running at 45gpm in 2 inch pipe which is 4.6 fps but I am not getting alot of chlorine production. If that doesn't work I will try 1 inch tablets.

Should the canister be allowed to fill with water or should there just be water on the lowest couple of tabs? To fill the canister, I must allow the water to rise before I put the lid in place. I am not happy with the chlorine output I am getting so far. I run a low pressure plumbing system...

I read that 1 pound of dry acid = 10 ounces of MA, so I won't be doing that. I use 1 gallon of acid per week. So with MA more dense than water, is the issue is that the MA sits at the bottom while the water without MA is taken off the top? I thought MA mixed into water dispersed itself evenly...

Somebody must have tried this already. I have stopped using LQ for chlorine. I was wondering if it could be used to delivery muratic acid.

EQArtimus, I live about 5 miles west of Buda and have used the LQ for about three years. I am about to convert; probably trying tabs first. If the cost of partial drain/refill to control CYA is excessive I may switch to SWG. Heck, my salt level is already 2900 from all the bleach I have been...

Jason, For the autopilot is the amount of chlorine produced controlled by setting a level on the controller (5 ppm) OR is the chlorine output controlled by the combination of the percentage setting and pump run time? Do you still use the acid pump even though you disabled the ph/orp sensor?

I will definitely shock - I have only done it once and that was over a year ago. I have four lights and four drain covers so removing them all would be a chore.

I have some green spots on the lights and drain covers which scrub off. Looks like algae but I have no CC. FC is available. Is it possible to have algae with no CC? FC 3.0 CC 0.0 pH 7.4 TA 60 CYA 30 CH 960 PH rise is a constant problem but I do have a large water feature that aerates.

thank you, I think I will leave my TA at 70 and add borates in the next couple of weeks. I removed everything from my Liquidator lines; check valves, control valve and flow indicator. I finally seem to have enough flow to keep my FC up and its easier to clean. I just adjust FC using pump...

It was suggested that I raise my TA from 70 to 100 to help with constantly rising PH. However, I then read on the forum that higher TA only helps control falling PH but doesn't help stabilize rising PH. I use 85 ounces of MA per week. I want to get the TA ironed out so I can add borates...

The water looks clear. I will need a week to keep an eye on the PH. Can I go ahead with the borates or should I wait until I am satisfied with TA? I added CYA yesterday but the test results didn't change much. I think I had less CYA than I originally thought. I am going to bump it another...

I have my made some adjustments and I am about to add borates as well. I wanted to ask about the TA recommendation of 100. 70 to 90 seems to be the normal range for plaster pools. What would higher TA provide to help me retain FC or stabilize my PH from rising? FC 5.5 CC 0 TA 70 PH 7.4 CH...