Recent content by andy33gmail

Thanks for all your help, it’s much appreciated, sorry if I’ve come across a little stubborn :-)

Mknaus, it would appear I had misunderstood something - Thanks for drawing that to my attention. Re-tested hardness and it’s still just over 300 - what has changed of course is the TA has come down to 40. I’ll point the jets straight now, and next time do so sooner - aim for a level of 80 I...

If I understand correctly, TA comes from about 3 key alkalines including calcium? By outgassing, you raise the pH, then you add acid (or in this case the ORP does) to reduce alkalinity. Fill water is about 350 TA IIRC, so way high

I’ve pointed the jet up a few of days ago to encourage out-gassing and (temporarily) set the pH to 7.2 to help burn some calcium hardness. This seems to be making the difference. I’ll re-check the calcium hardness tonight :-)

Chlorine levels are stable, it’s a small indoor pool and controlled with an ORP monitor. I can certainly increase the FC for a shock - although I’m not sure what I’d go to - typically you’d do 10x combined - but there is no combined! Interesting point about the filter and acid. I’m not sure...

I’ve noticed the water in my pool is fairly cloudy. There’s a little fungal activity - a single brush down the vinyl each time I use it keeps it from being slimy, nothing visible. Chemical balance is fine from all I’ve measured. Circulation moving fine, although filter is stubbornly slimey; I...

My endless pool came with a K-1005, which has now run out of R-0001 & R-0002 (free chlorine reagents) I’m trying to get replacement reagents (or a basic Taylor Kit, as they seem to cost about the same), but it’s nearly impossible to source in the UK. I’m seeing prices upwards of £100 (130USD)...

Surely better (healthier) just to maintain a lower amount of sanitiser than to add significantly more and reduce its effect? - - - Updated - - - Currently below 0.5 (the lowest level on the Taylor), crystal clear and with no slime. I’d guesstimate 0.4 That said, when I’ve previously shocked...

Never. No need, there’s no UV. It’s indoor, there’s a very modest amount of glazing, which doesn’t receive direct sunlight due to vegetation, and has privacy film on anyway to ... cut down on laundry. The UK’s having an especially good (as intense) summer right now, and even at that, I’ve only...

Interesting. So I guess only reliable for indoor or well shaded pools What would happen in an outdoor pool if you used an ORP monitor and had no CYA in order for it to work? Would FC burn off by the time it does a full circuit, meaning only some of the pool chlorinated and a lot of bleach to buy?

The manufacturer of my ORP monitor said to use sulphuric because in theory muriatic can release harmful gases. Maybe that’s the reason? Interesingly, I found it surprisingly to obtain sulphuric acid online in the UK - which was the only reason I used muriatic

I’m a big fan of ORP monitors. Feels like an unneccessary expense to avoid 5 mins work a day. But for £750 (sorry, not hot on exchange rates) and a couple of hours of work, I can keep my chlorine levels lower without worrying about it “turning” (previously screwed up twice in 12 months)...

Cheers :-)

Okay, I’ll set it to 7.4 and see what happens :-) Any point in adding bicarb or doing a partial water change (13% I think?) to get it to 50 for now, or just measure it for now? There’s an audible alarm if the pH goes out of range, so if it does become dangerous, at worst I’ll know as soon as...

Thanks for your help :-) Pool is heated to 30c off my central heating with a titanium heat exchanger There’s also an electric heater that isn’t used (came with the pool, so put it in as a backup) By TA crashing, you’re meaning that one day I’ll find it has TA of about 0 and pH well below 0? I...