Finally got a kit & tested the water

[cnatra]

well the Taylor 2006 arrived the other day & I finally learned how to use it tonight (youtube is great btw)

FC 1.4

CC 1.0

PH 8+

TA 220

CH 80

CYA 0.0



so i guess I need some :

CYA , liquid chlorine , muriatic acid , & calcium chloride

I've read up on everything so far except the calcium chloride , is that going to be a pool store purchase ?


Thanks

 

[Casey]

Lower you pH, adjust CYA to 30 for right now and then get to SLAM'ing.

 

[Isaac-1]

I can't help noticing that you posted this at 2 am and said you learned how to do the test tonight???

You did see that the CYA test needs to be done outdoors in sunlight, with the sun to your back to get accurate results right?

Even with that, I have to ask is this a fresh fill, and if not how have you been Chlorinating, as it is rare to see a CYA level of 0 on a pool other than from a fresh fill.

Ike

p.s. the first thing you need to do is get that pH down, then worry about the rest, for CH you could either use "hardness increaser" from a pool store or chlorinate with Cal-Hypo for a while. Calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate, are also sold as deicers, but that is not something we commonly find in this climate.

 

[cnatra]

Fill is about 6 weeks old

PB has been using pucks in chlorinator but I have no idea what kind & he's out of the picture now


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[cnatra]

I've done 2 cya tests
the first one Thursday afternoon outside when I got the kit, seemed like easiest first test to try
But yes I overlooked the requirement to do it in the sunlight tonight, I'll redo it tomorrow morning
That may explain it, I was scratching my head at the idea of no CYA after weeks of puck feeding from the chlorinator

Thx


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[cnatra]

How much of an issue is the high TA ?


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[Casey]

The high TA is driving your pH up. It is a non issue right now until you get all of your other numbers into place. Once you are settled in, then you can tackle the high TA.

 

[Charlie_R]

Re: Finally got a kit & tested the water

Example on the TA: My fill water has a TA of 150+, so every time I have to add water, I test. Pool TA is currently 80, and my pH holds fairly steady in the 7.4-7.6 range. If TA happens to drop lower, the pH will probably not drift at all.

- - - Updated - - -

Do follow the advice of the others, and get everything else in line before working with your TA.

 

[Isaac-1]

By chance do you know the total number of pucks that have been fed into the pool, this could give you an idea of the expected CYA range, given the relatively new water, and the possibility no start up CYA stabilizer was added it is possible your CYA is below the 30 ppm minimum detection level of the test. If you do not know how many have been added, but do know they were used I would work the assumption that your CYA is currently in the 15-20 ppm range for now when it comes time to increase it, so you are unlikely to overshoot you goal, remember the test is logarithmic so 20 ppm will look MUCH more clear than the 30 ppm minimum reading on the K-2006 view tube.

Ike

p.s. with your size pool each trichlor puck would raise your CYA by about 1.5 ppm, so if no start up CYA was added then it would take 20 pucks added since the fill to reach the minimum 30 ppm measurement on the K-2006 view tube. Also when doing the test make sure your are shaking enough and waiting enough, you can pour the mixture back and forth a number of times until you are confident in your reading

 

[cnatra]

Ok
Thanks for all the feedback


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[cnatra]

So it's very cloudy this morning
Should I not even try the CYA test yet ?


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[Charlie_R]

You will get a falsely high reading on a cloudy day.

 

[cnatra]

Ok
I guess I hold off on any CYA until I know I've got an accurate reading

I'm about to add the muriatic acid and liquid chlorine today

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[cnatra]

so last week I added almost 2 gallons or muriatic acid & two jugs of 8.25% wal-mart bleach & I held off adding any liquid CYA until I felt I was finally getting accurate readings for that
I also added calcium hypo pucks to the inline chlorinator & turned up the dial on it to 4.5

now I did a full test of the water again today (& I think I finally have the CYA test down after using up an entire R-0013)

FC 1.0

CC .2

PH 7.7

TA 180

CH 90

CYA 30

so more liquid chlorine , muriatic acid & finally add some calcium chloride ?
I'm thinking I don't need to SLAM since the CC is down to a reasonable level , right ?

THX
(I'm a hardware geek so I ordered a speedstir )

 

[duraleigh]

What does your water look like?

 

[jblizzle]

Are you sure you are using cal-hypo pucks? They are pretty rare and not meant to be put in a trichlor tablet feeder. In fact, we NEVER recommend putting cal-hypo into a container that had trichlor in it as if they come into contact they explode.

 

[timerguy]

If your pool is vinyl, don't worry about the CH.

 

[jblizzle]

If your pool is vinyl, don't worry about the CH.

It isn't, please check the signature.

 

[cnatra]

I would say if it wasn't for all the junk getting blown into the pool from the Wind today its's as clear as it's ever been ......

 

[timerguy]

I checked the sig, not a word there that tells me its not vinyl-- I don't understand greek. Pretty pool though.