Hayward Omni Logic 0 instant Salt

[Max1988]

Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. This is my 2nd year as a pool owner. I’m struggling to maintain healthy water levels. These are my readings:
instant salt 0 ppm
salt levels reads 3900 ppm
Cell type: T-Cell-15
Gallon: 19000 salt water pool
I struggle with 0 chlorine and 0 free chlorine. CYA was 0. I shocked it and a few hours later added CYA. My pool guy recommended 2 bags.
EVERY trip to the pool store is at least 250-300.00…I’m trying to get it right without being taken advantage of.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Have an awesome day!

 

[Guy559]

Hello everyone, I’m new to the group. This is my 2nd year as a pool owner. I’m struggling to maintain healthy water levels.

Hello Max, and welcome. Can you tell us a bit more about your pool? Are you the original owner or did you buy home with existing pool? I know it helped when I joined to put all my stats into my signature line so others could provide quicker (and more 'dialed in') support.

These are my readings:
instant salt 0 ppm
salt levels reads 3900 ppm

Not sure what this means, unless your SWCG was off (the T-15) and therefore wasn't reading 'instant salt.' Have you tested water using a Taylor drop test kit (like K2006 Salt) or did you get these readings from a pool store?

Cell type: T-Cell-15
Gallon: 19000 salt water pool
I struggle with 0 chlorine and 0 free chlorine. CYA was 0. I shocked it and a few hours later added CYA. My pool guy recommended 2 bags.
EVERY trip to the pool store is at least 250-300.00…I’m trying to get it right without being taken advantage of.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Have an awesome day!

Have you ever used chlorination pucks? Seems incredibly odd that a >2 year-old pool would have 0 CYA.

I know a lot of members here will ask for you to conduct a self-test with K2006 Salt (or similar) kit, then post your full results here. Also, PoolMath app if fantastic and highly recommended for tracking results, calculating quantities to add, and figuring out what happens in various "should I add" scenarios.

Also, more details about pool's history and quipment will be great. We'll help get things sorted...

 

[ajw22]

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Show the Chlorinator Diagnostic Screens
  • Reverse Polarity and recheck the readings.
  • Show the Diagnostic Screens in both Polarities.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

 

[Max1988]

Hello Max, and welcome. Can you tell us a bit more about your pool? Are you the original owner or did you buy home with existing pool? I know it helped when I joined to put all my stats into my signature line so others could provide quicker (and more 'dialed in') support.


Not sure what this means, unless your SWCG was off (the T-15) and therefore wasn't reading 'instant salt.' Have you tested water using a Taylor drop test kit (like K2006 Salt) or did you get these readings from a pool store?


Have you ever used chlorination pucks? Seems incredibly odd that a >2 year-old pool would have 0 CYA.

I know a lot of members here will ask for you to conduct a self-test with K2006 Salt (or similar) kit, then post your full results here. Also, PoolMath app if fantastic and highly recommended for tracking results, calculating quantities to add, and figuring out what happens in various "should I add" scenarios.

Also, more details about pool's history and quipment will be great. We'll help get things sorted...

 

[Max1988]

I’m the original owner. I’ve been trying to learn as much as I can about the system. It was a new system for my pool guy. All last I struggled to maintain healthy chlorine levels. This is year two and I really want to use it this year. I’ve been reading about the relay polarity and mine is off according to the panel. I went to the troubleshooting guide but I don’t understand how to turn it on. It lists the steps but it’s not making sense to me. I think this has to be activated in order for me to get chlorine??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Guy559]

I’m the original owner. I’ve been trying to learn as much as I can about the system. It was a new system for my pool guy. All last I struggled to maintain healthy chlorine levels. This is year two and I really want to use it this year. I’ve been reading about the relay polarity and mine is off according to the panel. I went to the troubleshooting guide but I don’t understand how to turn it on. It lists the steps but it’s not making sense to me. I think this has to be activated in order for me to get chlorine??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Relay polarity is automatic -- you can't choose it.

What you're seeing is the OmniLogic app's diagnostics page for the chlorinator. You have it set to 70%, so it should read 'Chlorinating' frequently from the top level status page. When it's chlorinating, then you can poke into diagnostics to see what the polarity is (K1 or K2), the amps drawn, current voltage, etc.

It's basically set in and forget it (to an extent). In my case, I've had it programmed between 25%-35% so far this Spring, which has been enough to keep me chlorine in-range. In fact, on a few occasions--like multiple cloudy days with lower UV--I've needed to reduce the percent production to avoid having too much chlorine in the pool.

I'm also new to a SWCG. The biggest help I've found so far is using my TFPro Salt kit to do a 'full panel' chemistry set once a week, while testing pH and free chlorine (FC) every 1-3 days. This has helped to establish a baseline for where levels are but, more importantly, to get a better sense for chlorine demand.

I'm sitting right about 50-60ppm CYA at the moment (slowly increasing by adding CYA granules to skimmer via an aquarium fine mesh bag). Therefore, I'm looking to keep my FC between 4-7ppm. When I see it drifting too high over a few days, I'll bump down my chlorine production. When I see it trending too low, I'll bump production up.

 

[Guy559]

OBTW, a simple item if you're doubtful that cell is producing chlorine: you can temporarily set production to 100%. If your main pool pump is running, the chlorinator should also be running. With mine, I can definitely hear the bubbles as they're generated (sounds like small amounts of gravel tumbling in pipes). You should also then be able to see your instantaneous stats for voltage, amps, and polarity.

If you're not getting any of these indications, the SWCG might not be properly setup within the Omni automation system.