Hi from Texas

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Maldravus said:
I tested this morning. Here are my results; FC 5. PH 7.8. TA 100. CH 200. I did not retest CYA so presumably it’s still 50. I added the recommended quantity of LC but I do still have some pucks. I will let those go away and use LC moving forward. What are these pinch a penny stores you’re referring to?
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Pinch a penny is really good for liquid chlorine. They sell them in 2.5 gallon refillable containers and its always fresh and a good price once you purchase the containers.

A nice family runs the one by me, so I don't feel as icky walking in there and spending $ there as I do Leslies. Keep in mind they are still a pool store and give pool store advice, so take any advice with a grain of salt, but in pool store terms they arent bad.
 
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Hey all,

New pool owner and new to tfpc. Following the recommendations here, I bought a test kit and have been testing daily. I subscribed to the pool math app and have been logging results there. I cannot seem to get my PH down regardless of how much dry acid I add. I’ve seen some very conflicting information online about muriatic acid in fiberglass pools, potentially compromising the shell after years of use. Any suggestions? Should I just up the amount of dry acid I’m using?

Thanks
 
Please do NOT use dry acid. It adds sulfates to your water and will damage/destroy any metals you have -- such as your heat pump.

Use muriatic acid. Typically can find it at Ace hardware, pool stores, paint stores, etc.
 
Maldravus said:
I’ve seen some very conflicting information online about muriatic acid in fiberglass pools, potentially compromising the shell after years of use.
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Disregard anything you read offsite. When following the sucky yucky pool method, you get sucky yucky results. Here at *trouble free pools*, well, yeah. 😁


Dose MA with a pencil like stream in front of a working return. Hold the bottle real low, possibly even submerging a little to all but eliminate splashing. Brush well after just in case any puddled up on the floor. (It probably didnt if you poured slow enough) Remain trouble free.
 
Any pH, 7.0 to 8.0 is just fine. Don't try to chase ideal. With a TA of 60-80, you pH will likely be stable between 7.8 and 8.0. Don't try to force it down more.
 
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Newdude said:
Disregard anything you read offsite. When following the sucky yucky pool method, you get sucky yucky results. Here at *trouble free pools*, well, yeah. 😁


Dose MA with a pencil like stream in front of a working return. Hold the bottle real low, possibly even submerging a little to all but eliminate splashing. Brush well after just in case any puddled up on the floor. (It probably didnt if you poured slow enough) Remain trouble free.
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Are there some sources available to confirm MA does not damage fiberglass in the long term?
 
Just thousands and thousands of members using it properly without issue. We've been at this since 2007. :)

The key is how it's used. If the pool store tells folks to dump 2 gallons in because their TA is high, and they add lots of MA haphazardly, then they have floor issues from puddles of MA sitting there. Or even from a single gallon poured to quickly and left to sit on the floor.

This goes for plaster and vinyl too. All 3 have no issues when MA is added properly.

On top of the dry acid adding sulfates, any that doesn't dissolve will leave polka dots on the floor. Brushing doesn't always make all the granuals dissolve and then you have acid, sitting on the finish you are worried about.
 
Maldravus said:
Are there some sources available to confirm MA does not damage fiberglass in the long term?
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How about the 100s of thousands of TFP members using muriatic acid for over 20 years...

1742658296377.png

Ok, Fine. Leisure Pool is one of the largest manufacturer of FG pools.

Mentions Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic) and explicitly states: "No other types of acid should eve be used for pH or total alkalinity adjustment."


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That will work, but full strength is better; hard to figure out the strength on the Klean Strip...SDS says 10-30%.

You can get it a Ace and/or Paint stores:

Transchem Muriatic Acid 1 gal Liquid Mfr# 1335100001 - Ace Hardware

Professional Strength 31.45% HCL (Muriatic Acid), excellent for pH reduction in swimming pools or to clean and etch masonry surfaces, excellent for pH reduction in all commercial and residential pools.Find the ACID MURIATIC GAL at Ace.
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com
 
I have a fiberglass pool. It was installed in 2014. With the high TA fill water I have, I have added nearly 100 gallons of 31.45% muriatic acid to my pool over its life.
Please use muriatic acid.
 
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PoolStored said:
That will work, but full strength is better; hard to figure out the strength on the Klean Strip...SDS says 10-30%.

You can get it a Ace and/or Paint stores:

Transchem Muriatic Acid 1 gal Liquid Mfr# 1335100001 - Ace Hardware

Professional Strength 31.45% HCL (Muriatic Acid), excellent for pH reduction in swimming pools or to clean and etch masonry surfaces, excellent for pH reduction in all commercial and residential pools.Find the ACID MURIATIC GAL at Ace.
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com
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Guess I’ll take this back and try to find some elsewhere. Do they typically indicate %?
 
Yes, most brands.

If not listed, on say brand XYZ, you can google search for "XYZ SDS" This will get you to the Safety Data Sheet which will list the %.
 
Appears this isn’t even meant for pools. Sigh. Guess I’ll take it back and try Pinch a Penny tomorrow. Hopefully they have a % listed.
 

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