Hayward Aqua PLUS Control Panel power cycling

[Grayrock]

Hello group, now that my pool is closed for the season, it's a good time to troubleshoot my control panel. One day it will work fine, sometime a whole week, other days it will start power cycling like the breaker is tripping, (not the case) before I fire the parts cannon at it, what area should I start troubleshooting? I can definitely fix it once I know what to replace, even if it's at the component level. Yes it does have the salt water cell, unplugged in this picture. Thanks!

 

[JamesW]

it will start power cycling like the breaker is tripping,

Can you clarify and expand on what exactly is happening?

What is cycling?

Can you find part numbers on these two parts?

 

[JamesW]

https://mcprod.hayward.com/media/wysiwyg/pdf/automation/prologic-aqualogic-consumer-trouble-shooting-guide.pdf

https://hayward.com/media/wysiwyg/pdf/automation/PL447c-ProLogic_TSG.pdf

Hayward ProLogic - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

https://splashottawa.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Pro-Logic-Diagnostics.pdf

 

[JamesW]

U4/U5 Relay Driver Failure.​

The U4 and U5 chips are Micrel MIC5841/5842 relay drivers[5] that control the K1, K2, K3, actuator and power relays.[6]

A relay failure can blow out the driver chip. If you replace them, you might want to test continuity on the relays to make sure they are not shorted.


When a member replaced the U4/U5 chips he added sockets so they could be easily replaced again.[7]

Parts used were:

• MIC5841YN IC PWR DRIVER BIPOLAR 1:8 18DIP
• ED18DTCONN IC DIP SOCKET 18POS TIN

 

[JamesW]

Board Repair

I have an older Hayward controller: goldline aqua logic circuit board "g1-066008k-1" Smelled smoky and there was a communication error. Many years ago I repaired the solder joint on the corner relay. This time I flipped the board over and re-soldered the joint. I did the job very fast in the...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JamesW]

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[Beancounter]

How did you solve your issue? I appear to have the same issue. Display comes on for a few seconds then starts cycling, becoming shorter each time.

So far I've traced the 24v AC from the red/black leads. The order leads exit the board (assume it should be 24v AC into the rectifier (converts ac to DC). I'm getting no voltage from the orange leads which according to hayward makes no sense. I asked AI and it said the transformer can test good under no load but fail under load. Going home tonight to test the rectifiers but I suspect its a transformer although the resistance on the transformer is nominal.