Pool stains look like rust

Fill water temperature is around 60 out of the tap
Ok, then fill in the deep and remove water from the surface.

What you should be really worried about is the iron. Where did you fill the pool from in the first place? Are you on a well? It may be that your fill water has iron in it. Replacing the water with the same source will just end up with the same problem.
 
I don’t think it was from the water as we are in city water we did find a couple of rusty screws off the screened in pool area I grabbed them but they could have been there some time prior to myself. The stains were weird and no real fixed area I have also noticed some rusty screw high up which I will be replacing or painting and we went Around replacing screws on the screened in pool area this year and painting these high up may be the last we hope

The final theory is the pool pump just got replaced and it was circa 2009 may have contaminated
 
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Where are you in Florida...we can try to pull the water reports.

If you are going to use the pool pump, you really need to watch. They will drain quickly. They may be 30-50 GPM. Municipal water through a hose will be 4-6 GPM. If you don't turn pump on and off and allow the pool to refill, you can run the pump dry and cause damage.

The other issue you will encounter is that with the pool pump, it will mix water. The point of the no drain is that with the temperature difference, the water you are adding will stratify and stay on the bottom. With the pool pump running, it will mix and not be efficient with the exchange. I would recommend you figure out a way to use a sump pump to remove water. You may need to hang it in the top of the shallow end, and use a garden hose output. You may also need to put the garden hose over some ladders, or something high to increase the head on the pump and reduce outflow.

You can test your input and output, by measuring flow into a 5 gallon pail. Time the fill water to 5 gallons and the output to 5 gallons. You want to match them if you can.
 
Thanks and makes sense, I’m thinking not to drain the pool fully just to below the skimmer line. I’ve had to dump water before due to hurricanes and it dumps at an extremely fast rate so will w sure I don’t let the pump run dry then pause and let it refill. I’m trying to avoid an acid wash by my pool guy next year btw I’m in Flagler county Florida. And as I mentioned I have been pulling some acres out of the bottom around a year ago and replacing them off the screen
 
Progress this morning
1. Back washed the filter for 5 min
2. Drained water down to the skimmer line and refilled.
3 readded clorex DF to the filter around 2.5 quart
4.added a cup of clorex clarifier
5. Added 2/3 of a gallon of chlorine
6. Tests below

Pump running and I know I need a better test kit
 

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Yes, you need a recommended test kit. Link-->Test Kits Compared

Why are you adding clarifier?


 
The pool was looking a little green I added one cup size below.

Test kit is going to be purchased today
 

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Thanks I just read the slam. And took the below reading 1.15 min into adding chlorine and backwashing
 

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Ok I’ve ordered the 5-1 test kit will get tomorrow as suggested and will post results and leave pool pump running for today
 
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Got my test kit and adding results below
Which test kit did you get? Don't think that is one of the recommended kits.

Fill the pH to the top thin line when you test, not max.

9 drops for the alkaline test x10 equals 90 PPM
You should add drops until the color does not change, then subtract the last drop.
 
Which test kit did you get? Don't think that is one of the recommended kits.

Fill the pH to the top thin line when you test, not max.


You should add drops until the color does not change, then subtract the last drop.
I just grabbed one from the local pool store for speed Lupo.
 

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