Algaecide use?

As well as all the advice given here, I have found that adding liquid algaecide (HTH, quaternary ammonium chlorides) a few times a season really helps and doesn't seem to have any adverse effects. I let my pool guy go years ago after lots of algae issues and with following the TFP system, haven't had any more since!
 
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That cheap junk is almost entirely destroyed by chlorine within a couple days. It's nothing but a placebo.
Maybe so, do you have any chemical kinetic data on the rate of reaction with hypochlorite you can point me to? I know from other use in a non-pool case that quats are excellent algaecides, and are quite stable. However, I have had no algae problems since I began using it 9 years ago, and as you say it is cheap, so I am happy with using it.
 
Maybe so, do you have any chemical kinetic data on the rate of reaction with hypochlorite you can point me to? I know from other use in a non-pool case that quats are excellent algaecides, and are quite stable. However, I have had no algae problems since I began using it 9 years ago, and as you say it is cheap, so I am happy with using it.
I think the point is that use of an algaecide is not a requirement if following the TFP methodology. How each individual manages their pool is their choice. Similar to you where our pools are open year round, I have not used any algaecide and have not had any algae in over 7 years. I just follow the FC/CYA Levels recommendations, and test regularly.
 
I think the point is that use of an algaecide is not a requirement if following the TFP methodology. How each individual manages their pool is their choice. Similar to you where our pools are open year round, I have not used any algaecide and have not had any algae in over 7 years. I just follow the FC/CYA Levels recommendations, and test regularly.
As I said, I have followed the TFP system, but I add the extra precaution of the algaecide. Now perhaps I don't need to but it is the least inexpensive chemical that I put into the pool, ($25 bottle of concentrate lasts 2 years) and causes no other problems, so to me it is worth it. Admittedly I have not run the control without it, but I don't want to take that risk and then possibly have to deal with algae again. I have a lot of leaves year round due to the Coastal Live Oaks that surround the pool which probably caused the annual algae problems I had when we first bought the place when I had a pool maintenance service and they merely dosed it with chlorine which provided only a temporary fix. I was simply giving my experience to the person who was having the algae problem. I agree everyone has to manage their own pool to their own satisfaction.

However I was interested in the anecdotal statement that the quat is "almost entirely destroyed" by hypochlorite fairly quickly and was a "placebo." Being a research scientist, I just wanted to know of any chemical kinetic data that backs up the claim before taking it at face value. So far I have not seen any, although your post pointed out a different perspective regarding its usage.
 
owever I was interested in the anecdotal statement that the quat is "almost entirely destroyed" by hypochlorite fairly quickly and was a "placebo." Being a research scientist, I just wanted to know of any chemical kinetic data that backs up the claim before taking it at face value. So far I have not seen any, although your post pointed out a different perspective regarding its usage.
PolyQuat-60 is a quaternary ammonium based algaecide (think of it like non-alcohol based hand sanitizer). It will help to keep algae at bay and it is less sensitive to chlorine oxidation than the cheaper linear quat algaecides. It does break down over time so it has to be replenished if used regularly but the by-products are harmless and don’t mess with your pool.

 
It's your job to prove that what you are suggesting has merit. Perhaps start another post on the topic rather than taking this thread further off topic.
It is certainly not off topic ("algae, chemistry problem"). Algaecide kills algae, that is fact. You mentioned the rapid destruction of the quat by chlorine, which is a chemical reaction (which may have been taking the thread off topic initially) Not having heard this before, I merely asked for the source of the information. Since you made the statement, surely it is up to you to provide scientific proof of its veracity. If you are not able to, it is just worthless anecdote.

My proof is that my pool is algae free, which is one of the main objectives of TFP, and I am happy with it. I have no interest in doing anything further. Others may also benefit from this additional approach if they so desire.

Your job is to convince me that I am wasting $25 every two years on "cheap junk" since you brought it up and it seems to bother you for some reason.
 
Algaecide kills algae, that is fact.
False.

Since you made the statement, surely it is up to you to provide scientific proof of its veracity. If you are not able to, it is just worthless anecdote.
Oh, I'm sorry, must have missed your scientific proof backing up your recommendation to use it. You said that using it "really helps" and has "no adverse effects", but the link to your scientific proof seems to have disappeared. Could you re-post that?

Your job is to convince me
No, it's not. My job is to warn a brand new person when they are getting poor advice from someone with nothing to back up their suggestion. Thankfully the mods have kindly taken care of that.
 
PolyQuat-60 is a quaternary ammonium based algaecide (think of it like non-alcohol based hand sanitizer). It will help to keep algae at bay and it is less sensitive to chlorine oxidation than the cheaper linear quat algaecides. It does break down over time so it has to be replenished if used regularly but the by-products are harmless and don’t mess with your pool.

Thank you for your reply. So the difference between PQ-60 and the linear quats is the rate of breakdown by chlorine? They are both quaternary ammonium salts, and both are effective algaecides with similar killing power. Your analogy with hand-sanitizers is inaccurate in this regard. "Less sensitive" is a rather general statement, which doesn't mean much to a trained scientist. Are there studies on this with real numbers that you can point me to? Maybe I will switch to PQ-60. It's only a few dollars more expensive anyway.
 

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Maybe I will switch to PQ-60. It's only a few dollars more expensive anyway.
The true originator of the FC and CYA relationship was Ben Powell. Richard Falk (Chem Geek) then determined the FC/CYA ratio rules after that (Pool Water Chemistry). Richard had many back and forths on PolyQuat 60 with the manufacturer...one below talks about frequency of use based on breakdown. I have never seen any posts with any chemistry on the breakdown from Richard. Here is his note on the breakdown and frequency of use. Interestingly, he indicates the same thing that we (TFP) and @Donldson are trying to convey...Algaecide is unnecessary if one maintains the proper Free Chlorine (FC) level for the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level.


 
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The true originator of the FC and CYA relationship was Ben Powell. Richard Falk (Chem Geek) then determined the FC/CYA ratio rules after that. Richard had many back and forths on PolyQuat 60 with the manufacturer...one below talks about frequency of use based on breakdown. I have never seen any posts with any chemistry on the breakdown from Richard. Here is his note on the breakdown and frequency of use.

Thank you for your helpful response.
I had many off-site chats with Richard several years ago so I am very familiar with his contributions and knowledge. I am sure if there were any data on the rate of breakdown or decomposition by hypochlorite attack, he would have found them and posted them.
There is some evidence that quats are stable in aqueous environments and even survive wastewater treatment.

As a professional research scientist, I don't accept anecdotal evidence. But to me, since it is well established that algaecides kill algae, using the product as an adjunct, inexpensive agent makes sense, even if, like hypochlorite and hydrochloric acid, it requires continual replacement.
I can also see that people may decide it is not for them and so don't use them.
 
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Your own usage and acceptance of it's effect is anecdotal. If I were you I would put my trust in the non-algaecidal group and go without to see which is better, if possible. If no difference is seen, over a season or two should you dare, you will then become comfortable without spending money on algaecide. About the only time it's recommended here is for pool closing before winter though the side effects are also noted at those times.
 
As a professional research scientist, I don't accept anecdotal evidence. But to me, since it is well established that algaecides kill algae, using the product as an adjunct, inexpensive agent makes sense, even if, like hypochlorite and hydrochloric acid, it requires continual replacement.
There's 100's/1000's of threads on TFP of people using algaecide when they already have algae algaecide to no effect.
 
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Your own usage and acceptance of it's effect is anecdotal.
Yes, you are correct. I said so in an earlier post, where I pointed out that I have not run the control without algaecide and my reasons.
If I were you I would put my trust in the non-algaecidal group and go without to see which is better, if possible. If no difference is seen, over a season or two should you dare, you will then become comfortable without spending money on algaecide. About the only time it's recommended here is for pool closing before winter though the side effects are also noted at those times.
But you are not me, and as I say above, I would rather not and risk the possibliity, however slight, of another algal bloom and the subsequent work to get rid of it. I had enough of that during the pool service years, but none since I have been following my protocol (which as you can see from my info was 9 years ago and including a big hurricane!). It can't be any better as I have a clear pool now (being able to see the philips head screws on the drain cap and which way up a coin is!). Just adding 2 oz of the liquid a few times during the season is fine by me. And the cost is very minimal even compared to the other minimal ongoing costs I incur for NaCl, HCl, CYA and electricity.

I really cannot understand the opposition I have received here because of this. It is almost as though I have committed heresy, although I do use the rest of the TFP system!
 
But to me, since it is well established that algaecides kill algae
Algecides *inhibit* algae growth. They can't stop the exponential runaway train, and that's a huge difference. If it killed active blooms, all anyone with a swamp would need was algecide.

As a preventative measure for the off season, its assumed that the PQ outlives the FC. But FC breaks down PQ and vice versa leaving you with less of each, ironically making you need the PQ once the FC is then too low. During the season, it's counterproductive IMO.

When closing early, it's a calculated risk that probably leans towards the PQ being more helpful than harmful. But if you close late enough, you'd have enough FC to make it to cold water for the off season if you skipped the PQ.

FWIW, I've done it both ways and since I learned how to make it through the off season with enough FC, I skip it. If you're still on team PQ, that's fine too. :)
 
2 oz of anything is not much at all and you might not be getting any benefit or detriment from it. We all do what we're comfortable with until we aren't. I am newish to TFP and yet had good success over 20 years with Leslies products of Free and Clear shock once every other week, run the T-15 every other week at 100% one day for "shocking", PhosFree once per week. muriatic acid as needed to stay in the middle of the 7s and then 50% on the SWG daily for 12 hours. I was amazed as I tested my water with my new TFPro and found I was in a good range on everything (I had been using LC prior to this as the SWG had died). So the more I read on here the more I realized that I was mostly lucky over the past 20 years while helping to keep Leslies in business. This is to exhibit how comfortable I had become with what I was doing while I didn't even understand why I did it nor what the chemistry was behind it. Now I won't ever go back to what I was once comfortable with and will stick with the chemistry-driven TFP way.
 
Being a research scientist
a trained scientist
As a professional research scientist
So I'm still not quite clear... are you by chance a scientist? 🧐

I don't accept anecdotal evidence.
Then the opposition to you offering advice based entirely upon anecdotal evidence should be pretty obvious, yes? You seem to be holding everyone else to a higher standard than you expect to be held to, why is that?

What you do with your water is not really of much concern to any of us. What advice you offer on TFP, and the foundation of that advice, is of concern to all of us.
 

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