Fighting a green pool for 2 years now

ksweeneyjr

Member
Sep 3, 2024
15
yorkville, il
I have recently taken over care of our pool. My wife really wanted a pool and I have always been against it. Her and her mom convinced me that pools are easy to take care of. I knew better but after years of nagging, I gave in. With kids in multiple travel sports, I knew we didnt have the time to check things daily therfore predicted an issue like this. Last year the pool would turn green overnight but take weeks to get back to clear. We were testing with strips and a crappy drop tester (I know better now). Everything would always look ok from a chemical standpoint. About a month ago we left for a week for a tournament and came back to the water looking like the picture. We had a Frog system that started leaking so I replaced it with a regular chlorinator. I didnt worry about using the trichlor tabs because CYA at the time always seemed to read on the lower end. When I started to take care of it a week ago the PH was high and chlorine was so low it wasnt even registering. I put in some PH reducer and got it to a 7.6 level. I then poured a massive amount of liquid chlorine and also used dichlor shock. CYA still shows low, but everything else seems in range, yet the pool is still green. Since I have been reading a lot of forums on here I am assuming I need to wait for my TF100 to get here and start the SLAM process. I am not sure what I should do in the meantime though. Also wanted to note that I have been brushing the walls and floor along with using the Pentair Prowler robot vacuum. I have also cleaned the cartridge filter 3 times.
 

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Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day until the kit arrives. Continue brushing.

When it arrives, post your results so we can figure out if there is anything else to do before you start the SLAM process.
 
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I am not sure what I should do in the meantime though.
Just wait and brush. You can add one gallon of liquid chlorine each day as well if you like, but don't try to do much else until the test kit comes in. That's when we get really accurate based on good results. Also keep in mind that with the previous Frog system, you may have residual copper in the water. The only way to get that out is change water. Curious, are you on a well? That would allow iron in the water too, so both metals can be frustrating.

We can show you how to deal with those issues and many more, but it all starts with the test kit once it comes in. When you get it, post the results as follows:
FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

If you have any questions about the pool or water testing let us know. Welcome to TFP! :wave:
 
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Is there a water test for certain metals?
There are some, but generally it's not worth the investment. The reaction between the combination of water, metals and chemicals is generally proof enough. Local stores do metals testing as a courtesy, but it can be wildly inconsistent just like their other testing. We'll be watching for your test kit results. :goodjob:
 
Use muriatic acid. Sodium Bisulfates add sulfates which are not good for metal and concrete.

Enter 7.6 for current and 7.2 for target pH. Select muriatic...it should tell you how much...
 
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So your pool size is likely a little big in pool math, that is why you are over. Go back to effects of adding, put in your starting fc and the addition. Change volume until the result is an addition that gets you to 18. Change your pool volume to that…
 
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Great 👍🏻 test & replenish fc to slam level as often as you can (every couple of hours if possible)
& do all the things! As you gain the upper hand against algae the fc losses will slow down so we recommend hitting it hard (frequently) when you have time off so when the work week starts back up you can maintain easily with 3 or 4 adds a day.
IMG_1202.jpeg
 
So far no change in water color. Is it possible I need to up the chlorine even more?
All dependent on CYA. Do the test outdoors, sun to your back. Fill to the first line, hold the vial at you waist so it is in the shade of your body. GLANCE. If the dot is obscured, you are done. Take the number next to the line and add 10. If you can still see the dot, fill to the next line, repeat. Keep doing this until the dot is obscured. When it is obscured, take that number and add 10. That is your CYA.

Slam level FC is dependent on an accurate CYA.
 
You wanna have full brightness when doing the cya test.
Nice sunny day, back to the sun is best.
Try to do it in the same conditions each time so you have consistency.
If it “dissapears” between two values round up to the next “10”.
Don’t be discouraged by not noticing an immense difference- it takes time.
Taking pics at the same time of day from the same spot with some sort of “reference” in the water like a pool brush pole can be helpful to notice the differences in color & clarity.
 
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It has been over a week since I upped the chlorine due to my original CYA reading being to low. It looks like its becoming a lighter green and I can see a little bit further down but not much. I have been cleaning the cartridge filter and vacuuming/brushing. Since my pool was so bad to start with, do I just need to be patient and keep going or do I maybe have another issue that needs to be addressed?
 

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