How do I know if the SWG is working?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
S

Stephan.

Member
Aug 21, 2024
12
Crestview, FL
My SWG seems to not be making chlorine anymore. The relay polarity and cell current is always off. I have it set to chlorinator set to 100%.

Yesterday it was showing 2800ppm and I added 40lbs of salt. the next day its still showing 2800ppm.

Forgive my ignorance, but does relay polarity off mean that its not on?
 

Attachments

  • 1000001892.jpg
    1000001892.jpg
    653.4 KB · Views: 37
Last edited:
Get a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit to validate salt content. The sensors on the SWCG are often off by 10%, at least mine has been. You can also run an overnight chlorine gain test. Use Pool Math to determine how much chlorine your cell should add in an 8-10 hour overnight window - something you can manage. Test your water at, say 8pm (after sunset) and again at say, 6am (before sunrise). See if your SWCG produces the expected amount.

If you have algae, then you’d need to address that first, because algae consumes chlorine and would invalidate the test. To determine if you have algae, run the overnight chlorine loss test, which is the reverse of the gain test.

www.troublefreepool.com

Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Thanks ill give that a try.

Yes I have poured through the wiki and search function. Ive read all the manuals I can find.

No matter what I try, the SWG never turns on. The only time FC shows up on tests is after a shock treatment. There was algae in the pool 3 days ago, today is crystal clear
 
Stephan. said:
There was algae in the pool 3 days ago, today is crystal clear
Click to expand...
Alage is microscopic so clear means nothing. It grows exponentially and by the time you can see it, it's like trying to stop a runaway train.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

It's very possible you beat it down just enough to be clear, but not dead.

Algae will consume FC as quickly as it's made so rule that out first so we know we have time to fiddle with the rest of it.

Also, +1 for a k1766 test. You can't argue with the cell no matter how much you know better, but knowing if it's close enough to correct or not will help guide further troubleshooting.
 
The display is showing no instant salt reading and no cell current. This is an indication that the cell is not generating. Make sure you set it to 100% and rerun diagnostics.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
JamesW said:
Push the button on the upper right to reverse polarity.
Click to expand...
The button to reverse polarity does not do anything.


ChrisLPC said:
Make sure the correct turbo cell is selected for the one that is installed. You will have to go into config and also look at your cell on your equipment pad to confirm.
Click to expand...
I am unable to get to the config without a password.

I think I may have to warranty the board.
 
Can you give us some history of the pool and equipment?

When was the equipment installed?

Can you show the equipment?

Do you have chemistry automation like pH or ORP?

When was the system working correctly?

Do you normally manage the pool or do you have a service?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply