What is this?

[jackieRN]

The stain on the blue area (vinyl) looks like iron to me (rust). If not from something that sat on the surface, perhaps something behind/below bleeding through? See if a magnet will stick to it.

The white area are steps I assume? Those looks like cracks and perhaps material is bleeding through. If Vitamin C doesn't work, try rubbing a chlorine tablet in the area.

Yes the stains definitely responded to vit c in the sock trick but we decided to tackle that at the end of season. Recall much earlier I used algeacide and metal out with high chlorine and got all the staining.
Now the other guy is explaining to me those time cracks are bad- I should seal them- maybe spot is coming there- spouse said we’ve had those on the steps awhile. Anyway I’m looking for advise on what to seal the tiny cracks with?

Also my cya is 50 so I’m now trying to maintain fc at 20. Not seeing any evidence of dead algea anywhere. Breathing, cleaning filter, ladder is out. Hopefully this ends soon.

 

[jackieRN]

The stain on the blue area (vinyl) looks like iron to me (rust). If not from something that sat on the surface, perhaps something behind/below bleeding through? See if a magnet will stick to it.

The white area are steps I assume? Those looks like cracks and perhaps material is bleeding through. If Vitamin C doesn't work, try rubbing a chlorine tablet in the area.

The blue area is my shadow- that’s the plastic white steps. Tiny crack . Thinking soot is coming out in those areas. I did vit c test no go on that stain but the rest of the pool is yellow and responded to the vit c test in a sock. Looking to seal the cracks. Advise?

 

[Texas Splash]

Looking to seal the cracks. Advise?

Repair options might vary. I say that because steps normally have a base underneath to support them, but that base can settle resulting in a void under the step(s). Over time, that "flex" in the step can result in a crack. So you have to determine if it sounds hollow underneath (void) that might require filling to support it. If it's just an isolated crack and not a result of a void, then it's all about repairing the crack.

Fiberglass/acrylic steps can be worked on. I've not personally done the repair, but you might reach out to a fiberglass pool installer or perhaps even a local marine repair shop. They all have experience with such repairs and should be able to tackle those steps with no huge issue.

 

[jackieRN]

I’m disgusted. Last night at 1030pm FC was 24 this morning at 6 am it’s 18. This can’t be.
Ifs been days now and no algea has fallen to the pool floor except once I saw some gray gunk along one seam. The ladder has been out for 48hrs- I’m brushing and vacuuming. My liner is almost completely yellow with stains (I used vitamin c in a sock and it came off right away).
I know im doing the test right.
I might over add chlorine but I’m using the booklet that came with the kit and matching it to suggested pool math to be sure I’m adding the correct amount.
I’m giving up!!!

 

[jackieRN]

I’m disgusted. Last night at 1030pm FC was 24 this morning at 6 am it’s 18. This can’t be.
Ifs been days now and no algea has fallen to the pool floor except once I saw some gray gunk along one seam. The ladder has been out for 48hrs- I’m brushing and vacuuming. My liner is almost completely yellow with stains (I used vitamin c in a sock and it came off right away).
I know im doing the test right.
I might over add chlorine but I’m using the booklet that came with the kit and matching it to suggested pool math to be sure I’m adding the correct amount.
I’m giving up!!!

Could oh be having any effect? 7.6-7.8 can’t treally tell it’s between those 2.
Hot and sunny here and not using a cover because it might be “nascent algae “.
I’m still slamming but wondering if I should lower oh tho I recall once slamming starts ph is irrelevant

 

[Mdragger88]

Don’t worry about the ph right now.
The test is invalid at fc levels over 10ppm.
Have you cleaned the cover?
(What kind of cover is it?)

To be clear, you’re testing after your last addition for the oclt right?
Not adding then assuming your fc level.

Are you running the pump all night?

Do you have an auto fill or an overflow drain?
Just covering all the bases…

 

[jackieRN]

Don’t worry about the ph right now.
The test is invalid at fc levels over 10ppm.
Have you cleaned the cover?
(What kind of cover is it?)

To be clear, you’re testing after your last addition for the oclt right?
Not adding then assuming your fc level.

Are you running the pump all night?

Do you have an auto fill or an overflow drain?
Just covering all the bases…

Well….. I haven’t used the cover at all this summer so take that out of the equation.
We run our pump 24/7 always have for fear of something happening
We don’t have overflow or auto fill
But no i am testing at night in the dark like 9:15 - if it’s not at 24 (now 20) I add what’s suggested.
I have tried to check 2 hours later but that’s when I get a reading of 30 -40 even tho I’m adding chlorine based on the calculator and the booklet.
For example it says to raise by 1ppm in a 20k pool using 12% use so much and I double that or quadruple whatever I need to raise by. But 3 hours later it’s insanely high. That has happened a few times. If I check at dark., add chlorine, I have to go check at midnight. I did that last night and it was 24 on its own I didn’t add anything at 10:30 pm so this morning it was 18.
I must be doing something wrong but I’m not an idiot I cannot fathom what’s wrong.

 

[Texas Splash]

@jackieRN, as a periodic recap to this thread, basically you have had an unusual issue we can't seem to pinpoint. You have been in SLAM mode for quite some time due to failing the OCLT - water clear. You will do a 10 ml FC test at say 20 ppm, add only a few ounces per the APP, then 2-3 hrs later her FC level appears to be in the high 50-60 range. You have done a 5 ml test to confirm. Your test of tap water is normal, and sometimes the pool test is normal (20-24 ppm), but quite often it shows this unusual spike 2-3 hrs later that makes no sense.

We have addressed pool size, data in the APP, dosage amounts, water location for sample, circulation, etc. The only thing I can't confirm is a compromise of the reagents. You appear to have iron in the water (Vitamin C works), but I've never seen that come into play as far as disturbing the FC test. Not sure if there something right in our face we have overlooked perhaps? Maybe we have tunnel vision.

 

[jackieRN]

I got home at midnight from a concert and fc was 15. Dumped in one gallon of 12.5 this morning fc is 50+

One problem I’m having is sun not going down till 9pm over my pool. Testing and adding to get to at least 20. Then I have to wait 3 hrs to test. I can’t stay up every night doing this. And 3 hrs later is when I get that over the top reading.
The Taylor book uses 12 and I have 12.5 and the pool math calculator is what I’m using.
It seems if I test any sooner than 3-4 hours after adding its over the top but after that there is a dramatic drop.
I think at this point I’m just going to keep fc at 8for cya of 50 and try and get thru summer. I’ve used 20 gallons of fc (120$) since starting this I can’t continue.

 

[Texas Splash]

fc was 15. Dumped in one gallon of 12.5 this morning fc is 50+

That's makes no sense. Really weird. One gallon of 12.5% chlorine is about 6.5 ppm in your 19,150 gallon pool.

 

[Mdragger88]

. Then I have to wait 3 hrs to test

30 minutes with the pump running is sufficient- you don’t have to wait 3 hours.

 

[jackieRN]

30 minutes with the pump running is sufficient- you don’t have to wait 3 hours.

Every time I do that my reading is over 50-60 and I’m blowing thru reagent

 

[jackieRN]

So 64 ounces should raise me 3.1 and so on - At 9pm I’ll do it one more time. I’ll add enough to get my fc to 20. I’ll wait one hour. If it’s insanely high.i jump. Whatever it is at 10 pm it should be at 6 am.

 

[Texas Splash]

Jackie, I'm scratching my head on your situation. We've addressed numerous potential areas that might influence an FC test and yet you still have those unusual anomalies of a spiked FC level. Just to recap our discussion, you've been in SLAM mode for quite some time, unable to confidently pass the OCLT. Your water is crystal clear. You're not on a well (city water), but you do have iron staining. Thus far we've discussed:
- Confirmed your 10 ML FC test procedure as accurate.
- Tested tap water with no problem,
- Performed a 5 ML FC test with relatively accurate results.
- Water sample always taken form the same location about elbow deep.
- Water circulating well at all times (SLAM mode).
- Chlorine is 12.5% from local store.
- Pool size loaded correctly in the APP
- Amount of chlorine added commensurate with what is required to increase FC from a reduced level back to SLAM level.

Commonly what happens is that after doing a first FC test, you add the required amount of chlorine, then some 2-3 hours later the FC test goes off the scale somewhere between 50-60 ppm by all indications from the FAS-DPD test.

Let's see if others might be able to provide a new perspective on this odd issue in case we're missing something incredibly obvious.

 

[proavia]

With CYA 60 (six days ago), your SLAM Process FC target is 24.
After you start a SLAM, you don't test CYA again until well after the SLAM is completed.

What was FC at your last test?
If you need to add, how much does PoolMath suggest?
If you add, test 30 minutes later and report the FC reading.

And log each and every test result to PoolMath - don't just use a note to say what the FC is. Use notes to list how much of what product you add.
For now, only test FC. No need to do any others - especially not CYA.

Do NOT add more than PoolMath suggests.
Do NOT use the book that came with the test kit - use PoolMath only.
Some message back (post #87) you indicated you added double and quadruple what PoolMath suggested. Don't do that.

Something isn't right with your testing, the chlorine you are using, etc.
There is no way you could add the amount PoolMath suggests and go from <24 to over 50.
Let's get to the bottom of why this keeps happening and work toward getting your pool clear, sanitary and balanced.

 

[jackieRN]

Ok well right now fc is 15. I only have one gallon of 12.5 - based on above going back to a cya of 60 I should add more but I’ll add the gallon and test again at 10 pm amd see where I am in the morning.

I’ve been doing only the 5ml test since you told me - I figure that was ok? Is it not?

 

[jackieRN]

Ok well right now fc is 15. I only have one gallon of 12.5 - based on above going back to a cya of 60 I should add more but I’ll add the gallon and test again at 10 pm amd see where I am in the morning.

I’ve been doing only the 5ml test since you told me - I figure that was ok? Is it not?

Also pool has only one depth 4.5ft

 

[jackieRN]

Also pool has only one depth 4.5ft

And I fill with city water not a well

 

[Texas Splash]

I’ve been doing only the 5ml test since you told me - I figure that was ok? Is it not?

It's not as accurate, but you're running low on reagent so not the worst thing. Once you get new refills I'd go back to the 10 ml.

 

[Texas Splash]

And I fill with city water not a well

I'll make that correction above in my post. Still, we know you have iron from the staining so the city water must have some old pipes or their local sources have iron in them.