We did not open our pool last year and our loop loc cover had several tears so we used a basic cover with water bags. The basic cover deteriorated and was not in good shape this year. We had started pumping water off cover but didn't finish. Gate did not get shut and a dog ran in pool area and on cover and ended up in the pool along with all the leaves and dirt we didnt get off the cover. We were also fighting with maby frogs. Long story short we have added algeacide, liquid shock, clarifier, shock, along with the regular stabilizer, tablets, calcium, ph etc. Because all of the leaves were on the bottom we did not cut on the main drain. We have scooped and scooped and believe we have the leaves out now. To clear pool up the pool store had us to do the back to pool shock/floc. This made a mess because the main drain wasn’t on so the gunk didn’t sink. What, if anything, can we do at this point besides wasting all the water?
Need help getting pool clear
- Thread starter AndrewO
- Start date
Welcome to TFP.
Do you have a test kit? Can you post test values for
pH
FC
CC
CH
TA
CYA
What type of filter do you have? Do you have a vinyl, plaster or fiberglass pool?
What type of vacuum do you have? Need to remove the floc.
We use a process call the SLAM Process. It only requires use of liquid chlorine, a proper test kit and patience.
It may take a week or so but it can be become crystal clear or if you so desire, drain and restart if that is easier for you.
See
Test Kits Compared
Pool Care Basics
Do you have a test kit? Can you post test values for
pH
FC
CC
CH
TA
CYA
What type of filter do you have? Do you have a vinyl, plaster or fiberglass pool?
What type of vacuum do you have? Need to remove the floc.
We use a process call the SLAM Process. It only requires use of liquid chlorine, a proper test kit and patience.
It may take a week or so but it can be become crystal clear or if you so desire, drain and restart if that is easier for you.
See
Test Kits Compared
Pool Care Basics
18x36 inground vinyl liner with sand filter
Forgot to mention we also had to do the chlorine demand as well. We can vacuum from skimmer with the hose hookup. We have one robot but it’s not the best. The floc we did didn’t settle because the main drain hasn’t been on to help it drop. The pool store tested water yesterday. Some levels are high because the shock/floc still in the pool
pH 7
FC 9.47
CC 1.47
CH 232
TA 104 input, 73 adjusted
CYA 93
We’ve worked on the poll about 3 weeks now and spent a lot of money. In the beginning we were also trying liquid gallons of chlorine from Walmart. I do have some new test strips we got this year and an old test kit that may need replaced.
The SLAM Process can clear this up but it will take purchasing a proper test kit because you will need to test the water every 3-4 hours during daylight hours. Also, pool store testing is not reliable because of contamination to other pool samples and lack of skill by summer employees. You will also only need to purchase liquid chlorine.
If you wish to proceed pour 1 gallon of liquid chlorine (purchase from Walmart or Home Depot) in the pool per day until a proper test kit arrives.
Also may need some Muractic acid to adjust pH before officially starting the SLAM process.
Post a photo of your pool so we can see the current state.
If you wish to proceed pour 1 gallon of liquid chlorine (purchase from Walmart or Home Depot) in the pool per day until a proper test kit arrives.
Also may need some Muractic acid to adjust pH before officially starting the SLAM process.
Post a photo of your pool so we can see the current state.
I’ve ordered at tf-pro and it should be here tomorrow and planning to test and hopefully start the SLAM tomorrow or Friday. I wanted to make sure I understand correctly on getting started. Do I take all the the test or just CYA and pH? I saw the chart for to refer to for the slam level. I also need to do the fas-dpd to start correct? I purchased 8 gallons of liquid chlorine from Walmart today. I will know a more definite cya tomorrow but by test strip I’m going to say it’s between 35-40 but I did add a little more water after I backwashed. If it is 35 with the reagents I would want a slam level of 16 (rounding up?) We have scooped a lot of leaves out and think we’ve gotten most now but since we can’t see the bottom we haven’t vacuumed. We have brushed several times. I’m also not sure we have our # of gallons figured correctly. 18x 36 oval 3’ and 8’ with a slope but I’m not sure how much. I think the pool store always averaged up to 30k but I’m not getting that much.
Anyways, once I know the test amount and if cya and pH is good I just enter the fc in the one column and the slam number (maybe 16 in my guess above) and see how much is says to add? Then 2-3 hours later check fc and change to now # and see how much over and over? At what point do I know when to stop? I’m am hoping I never have to go to the pool store again with this method and everyone’s help.
I just wanted to make sure I understand the process as best I can before I get started so I don’t mess up.
Thanks
Anyways, once I know the test amount and if cya and pH is good I just enter the fc in the one column and the slam number (maybe 16 in my guess above) and see how much is says to add? Then 2-3 hours later check fc and change to now # and see how much over and over? At what point do I know when to stop? I’m am hoping I never have to go to the pool store again with this method and everyone’s help.
I just wanted to make sure I understand the process as best I can before I get started so I don’t mess up.
Thanks
Hg433
Well-known member
Test strip test of cya is not accurate, if pool store got a reading of 90+, with your new test kit if CYA is in that range, you may need to empty 30 to 50% based on what experts here recommend before starting SLAM. SLAM is a 2 to 4 week exercise with tons of learning each day for such sized pool.
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I will test cya when my kit gets here tomorrow. But other than that does it sound like I understand it enough to move forward (if cya is good)
Great!!! Do the CYA test to confirm CYA value. Always round up if you read no dot between 2 decade numbers. For example if your CYA becomes 40 the the SLAM FC level is 16ppm (40% of CYA value).I’ve ordered at tf-pro and it should be here tomorrow and planning to test and hopefully start the SLAM tomorrow or Friday. I wanted to make sure I understand correctly on getting started. Do I take all the the test or just CYA and pH? I saw the chart for to refer to for the slam level. I also need to do the fas-dpd to start correct? I purchased 8 gallons of liquid chlorine from Walmart today. I will know a more definite cya tomorrow but by test strip I’m going to say it’s between 35-40 but I did add a little more water after I backwashed. If it is 35 with the reagents I would want a slam level of 16 (rounding up?) We have scooped a lot of leaves out and think we’ve gotten most now but since we can’t see the bottom we haven’t vacuumed. We have brushed several times. I’m also not sure we have our # of gallons figured correctly. 18x 36 oval 3’ and 8’ with a slope but I’m not sure how much. I think the pool store always averaged up to 30k but I’m not getting that much.
Anyways, once I know the test amount and if cya and pH is good I just enter the fc in the one column and the slam number (maybe 16 in my guess above) and see how much is says to add? Then 2-3 hours later check fc and change to now # and see how much over and over? At what point do I know when to stop? I’m am hoping I never have to go to the pool store again with this method and everyone’s help.
I just wanted to make sure I understand the process as best I can before I get started so I don’t mess up.
Thanks
Use the FAS/DPD chlorine test for current FC level.
Use the color comparator for the pH test. Do you have Muractic acid to lower pH if needed?
Please print out the SLAM Process. Test CYA, current FC and pH are the important ones now. Lower pH to 7.2 before adding any additional chlorine.
The SLAM takes time - the M is for MAINTAIN. It may take several days or a week depending current status of the pool.
Please take a photo and post for us to see. Then take a photo every day about the same time as it is easier to see changes.
In the SLAM document there is 3 criteria as to when the SLAM can end. These need to be strictly adhered to or it will just allow algae to return. You will need to purchase more liquid chlorine to keep the FC level at SLAM level.
Come back with the test levels for
CYA
pH
FC
Thanks. And we are here to help.
with the cya test i fill the comparatot to 100
hold the comparator at waist level, back to the sun. i prefer 10am or 2pm
have a quick glance 1-2 seconds, do not stare, if you see dot, then fill to 90 and repeat
if you dont see dot at 100, dilute pool sample 50/50 with tap water, then retest and double your final number
hold the comparator at waist level, back to the sun. i prefer 10am or 2pm
have a quick glance 1-2 seconds, do not stare, if you see dot, then fill to 90 and repeat
if you dont see dot at 100, dilute pool sample 50/50 with tap water, then retest and double your final number
I tried again by looking down on it on a white paper background, inside pool house, turned around different ways. It just seems like there’s a reflection or something. Maybe it’s my glasses but without them I probably wouldn’t see anything. I may have to take a sample to pool store again after all. Hopefully I get better at the tests or I wasted even more money
CYA test. Ensure you have an 50/50 mixture of pool water and R0013 reagent. Shake it well and let it sit. Then have sun to your back when pouring into the CYA tube. I find it best to pour to a given mark, Let’s say 90 and look in the vial. If you see dot then pour to 80 mark, do you see dot? Continue this until you cannot see the dot and use the last decade mark where you saw the dot as your CYA.
This prevents you from constantly looking at the dot while pouring and also ensure you only record decade numbers for CYA.
FC test. You should be using the FAS/DPD test for FC as it is more accurate and removes the color comparison.
Furthermore, based on the photo you have posted, the pool water sample needs to be filled to the top line. The line adjacent to the letters. CL or pH. That is proper fill mark before adding the drops.
That comparator is great for measuring pH but the FAS/DPD test should be used for FC measurement.
Hg433
Well-known member
You should remove those tablets until you get CYA in 30-50 range. Though this is little long process, but still better then relying on pool stores. Based on color of water, I feel you will need 12% strength liquid chlorine for next 2 weeks.
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I found that during the CYA test, if I place tester on a solid table and not touch it, I get much more repeatable results. If I hold it in my hand, the smallest movement creates ripples in the tube blurring my sight of the dot.
Okay, we have vacuumed to waste and new water will be here soon.
Walk me through steps to get this pool open
Walk me through steps to get this pool open
-Since the cya was to high-Okay, we have vacuumed to waste and new water will be here soon.
Walk me through steps to get this pool open
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,401
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus