SLAM woes

[meganmomof8]

But then how is my free chlorine level at 22 still? Not questioning your judgement but trying to understand this. I have not done the sock method before.

Then that means you little to no CYA in the water and need to add some. So I would grab some granular stabilizer and use the sock pre-soaking method to add about 30 ppm of stabilizer. If you've not done the sock method before let us know.

Without stabilizer, all the chlorine you add to the water gets burned off by the sun extremely fast preventing it from doing it's job.

 

[Texas Splash]

But then how is my free chlorine level at 22 still?

That is odd. Let's step back and confirm a few basic items:
- How are you testing the CYA? Is if with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C? Your signature says HTH kit.
- For FC testing, are you using the 10 ml water sample size with one generous scoop of powder? Then mix and add drops until clear and divide result in half? Example, 40 drops to clear would be an FC of 20.

 

[meganmomof8]

That is odd. Let's step back and confirm a few basic items:
- How are you testing the CYA? Is if with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C? Your signature says HTH kit.
- For FC testing, are you using the 10 ml water sample size with one generous scoop of powder? Then mix and add drops until clear and divide result in half? Example, 40 drops to clear would be an FC of 20.

I’m using the HTH kit for CYA testing.

I was using 2 scoops of powder for 10ml water sample. Yes I was dividing in half. Last test I added 44 drops.

 

[Texas Splash]

Okay, so two concerns there:
1 - I have my doubts about the HTH CYA test. Not one that we typically rely upon, so you're rolling the dice there. That may be part of the issue.
2 - When using to 10 ml water sample size, just use one scoop of powder. Don't level it off flat on the spoon. "Generous" (or heaping) is fine and plenty for the 10 ml sample size. That should also save you some powder over time.

 

[meganmomof8]

Okay, so two concerns there:
1 - I have my doubts about the HTH CYA test. Not one that we typically rely upon, so you're rolling the dice there. That may be part of the issue.
2 - When using to 10 ml water sample size, just use one scoop of powder. Don't level it off flat on the spoon. "Generous" (or heaping) is fine and plenty for the 10 ml sample size. That should also save you some powder over time.

okay good to know! I’m broke from all these pool supplies so i may take a water sample to the pool store for a CYA reading instead.

in the meantime- i just keep following the same protocol i have been? keep doing the SLAM?

 

[Texas Splash]

in the meantime- i just keep following the same protocol i have been? keep doing the SLAM?

I would. I understand the $$$ woes and it's tough nowadays. Just understand that the pool store CYA testing is often flawed. Not something we recommend here at TFP, but you probably already know that. But in an ideal situation, you hope to have an accurate/reliable CYA of which to gauge what your SLAM FC level needs to be at per the chart above. While I don't trust the pool store testing, I'm curious to know if they show anything at all since you said your HTH showed zero CYA.

 

[JessBlount617]

I'm going to let @Texas Splash work with you on chemicals - and I am going to help you with your bucket.

You can use your ladder to "hold" your bucket - just be mindful that if you have algae you'll want to brush/scrub it when you brush and scrub the sides/bottom of the pool. Ladders are notorious for algae because of all the little nooks/crannies.

Can you send a pic of the lines of your pool filtration? That will help us visually prepare you for bucket placement/and pumping. You shouldn't need to take your bucket down unless something traumatic happens (i.e. lid bursts off, water is leaking out the bottom, etc). Let that bad boy run ALL THE TIME.

I ran "water out of the pool" through the normal exits on the pool, water went into skimmer basket, then into sand filter. From Sand Filter, I ran water through the poly-bucket before it exited back into the pool. This should do two things - 1. Filter out the rust 2. Keep water from being stagnant

 

[meganmomof8]

I'm going to let @Texas Splash work with you on chemicals - and I am going to help you with your bucket.

You can use your ladder to "hold" your bucket - just be mindful that if you have algae you'll want to brush/scrub it when you brush and scrub the sides/bottom of the pool. Ladders are notorious for algae because of all the little nooks/crannies.

Can you send a pic of the lines of your pool filtration? That will help us visually prepare you for bucket placement/and pumping. You shouldn't need to take your bucket down unless something traumatic happens (i.e. lid bursts off, water is leaking out the bottom, etc). Let that bad boy run ALL THE TIME.

I ran "water out of the pool" through the normal exits on the pool, water went into skimmer basket, then into sand filter. From Sand Filter, I ran water through the poly-bucket before it exited back into the pool. This should do two things - 1. Filter out the rust 2. Keep water from being stagnant

Well yesterday we borrowed a submersible pump and moved the ladder out. We have the bucket attached to our deck now with the pump running water through it while the return from the sand filter goes back into the pool directly so we can have water flow from the jet. Water was way too stagnant when we put the return hose in the bucket unfortunately.

 

[meganmomof8]

I would. I understand the $$$ woes and it's tough nowadays. Just understand that the pool store CYA testing is often flawed. Not something we recommend here at TFP, but you probably already know that. But in an ideal situation, you hope to have an accurate/reliable CYA of which to gauge what your SLAM FC level needs to be at per the chart above. While I don't trust the pool store testing, I'm curious to know if they show anything at all since you said your HTH showed zero CYA.

Most recent testing I did shows PH at 6.8, alkalinity at 190, FC at 1.5. I just added my last gallon of chlorine.

I can't keep doing this chlorine thing forever so please tell me something I can do.I've vacuumed the pool with a manual vac the last 3 days. First day got lots of algae and gunk out but after that its been mostly clear. Still can't even come close to seeing the bottom of the pool. It is a dark greenish color but the water seems clean to me??

I'm so so tired of this and I'm so broke from spending sooooo much money. I'm not going to have time or money for other means of CYA testing this week.

 

[Texas Splash]

That should work much better for you. Looking forward to a new pic in a day or so.

 

[Texas Splash]

Most recent testing I did shows PH at 6.8, alkalinity at 190, FC at 1.5. I just added my last gallon of chlorine.

You have a couple obstacles, and without a good test kit and tight funds, you're going to have to make a decision as to what works best for you. Here is what I see could happen:
1. You order one of those proper test kits so you can be 100% sure of your chemical levels. From there, we help coach you accurately.
2. You continue with the HTH kit, supplemented with the FAS-DPD, and hope for the best.
3. You dump the water and start over. In some cases, water is cheaper.

Based on your recent pH, FC, and questionable CYA, I'm concerned about the potential for ammonia. But I emphasize that is speculation at this point because I don't have a lot of confidence in those test results, other than the FC tests from the FAS-DPD. "IF" (again, guessing here) you have ammonia, it would explain a low pH, the inability to hold FC, but would also bring the CYA down to about zero. If you have ammonia, there is a way to get rid of it, but it takes a good test kit and LOTS of chlorine - lots. Hence, the water exchange might be better for you.

Please think it over and let us know how you might like to proceed. We're here to assist as best as we can, but honestly whatever decision you make, a proper test kit is a must-have.

 

[meganmomof8]

Alright, I just bit the bullet and charged a good test kit. New water for our pool would be almost $700, I already checked. The test kit won't be here for a few days. What would you suggest I do while I wait?

You have a couple obstacles, and without a good test kit and tight funds, you're going to have to make a decision as to what works best for you. Here is what I see could happen:
1. You order one of those proper test kits so you can be 100% sure of your chemical levels. From there, we help coach you accurately.
2. You continue with the HTH kit, supplemented with the FAS-DPD, and hope for the best.
3. You dump the water and start over. In some cases, water is cheaper.

Based on your recent pH, FC, and questionable CYA, I'm concerned about the potential for ammonia. But I emphasize that is speculation at this point because I don't have a lot of confidence in those test results, other than the FC tests from the FAS-DPD. "IF" (again, guessing here) you have ammonia, it would explain a low pH, the inability to hold FC, but would also bring the CYA down to about zero. If you have ammonia, there is a way to get rid of it, but it takes a good test kit and LOTS of chlorine - lots. Hence, the water exchange might be better for you.

Please think it over and let us know how you might like to proceed. We're here to assist as best as we can, but honestly whatever decision you make, a proper test kit is a must-have.

 

[Texas Splash]

What would you suggest I do while I wait?

At this point, add just one gallon of chlorine a day. That's all. It might not seem like much, but the chemistry is so questionable it's best to not waste anymore product more than necessary.

Great to hear you have a good kit on its way. Be sure to add it to your signature when you get a chance. Continue to brush the pool each day to keep biofilms broken up and moving around. Perhaps try to stock-up on a few bottles of chlorine between now and then.

When you get the test kit, we'll be watching for the following:

FC
CC
CYA
PH
TA
CH

If you have any other questions please let us know. Have a good day.

 

[JessBlount617]

Do you have a Menards nearby? They have gallons of Chlorine for $4-5 each, and are 12.5% strength. That will help on the amount of chlorine that needs to be dumped into the pool. They are also running their 11% Cash Back program right now - so while it won't save you up front costs, you can submit the refund to help fund more pool fun later!

The chemical testing kit is an INVESTMENT not an expense. I hated the idea of spending the money when I could be buying other stuff - but it saved my life during the SLAM testing and getting everything figured out up front.

For your poly-fill bucket - go to Walmart and get the cheapest $3 pillows - and grab 3-4 of them if you can. That will save you from buying ACTUAL polyfill - or heck - even old pillows you have laying around that you don't use (kids beds, old decorative pillows - anything will work). Send a pic of how you have the tubes running from your filtration into that bucket - that will help us get you squared away on the iron issues.

And don't get discouraged! I was in my backyard in full tears one night because my pillow bucket had burst open, I couldn't figure out a ratchet strap to save my life, and I almost tore the whole thing down out of spite. I was at my wits end with expenses - and about to poke/cut a hole in the pool and call it done. BUT I PROMISE - the people on this forum will help in every capacity they can. You have a lot of people rooting for you - and you don't even know it yet!

 

[meganmomof8]

Do you have a Menards nearby? They have gallons of Chlorine for $4-5 each, and are 12.5% strength. That will help on the amount of chlorine that needs to be dumped into the pool. They are also running their 11% Cash Back program right now - so while it won't save you up front costs, you can submit the refund to help fund more pool fun later!

The chemical testing kit is an INVESTMENT not an expense. I hated the idea of spending the money when I could be buying other stuff - but it saved my life during the SLAM testing and getting everything figured out up front.

For your poly-fill bucket - go to Walmart and get the cheapest $3 pillows - and grab 3-4 of them if you can. That will save you from buying ACTUAL polyfill - or heck - even old pillows you have laying around that you don't use (kids beds, old decorative pillows - anything will work). Send a pic of how you have the tubes running from your filtration into that bucket - that will help us get you squared away on the iron issues.

And don't get discouraged! I was in my backyard in full tears one night because my pillow bucket had burst open, I couldn't figure out a ratchet strap to save my life, and I almost tore the whole thing down out of spite. I was at my wits end with expenses - and about to poke/cut a hole in the pool and call it done. BUT I PROMISE - the people on this forum will help in every capacity they can. You have a lot of people rooting for you - and you don't even know it yet!

Unfortunately I don’t have a Menards near me. I just ordered more chlorine and poly fill from walmart and gonna go pick it up today. Look at this water though! It’s looking amazing. I can almost see to the bottom!

I’ll have to take a pic next time I’m out there. It’s a swamp I try to avoid because of the leak. Ugh! and thank you for the empathy. I refuse to give up but it’s really wearing on me for sure!

 

[JessBlount617]

YOWZA!!!!! That's a TREMENDOUS improvement!!!!

You got this!

 

[Texas Splash]

Look at that!

 

[meganmomof8]

So I’m going to add some granulated stabilizer today and another gallon of chlorine for now. I vacuumed again and it’s just clear water.

 

[Texas Splash]

I’m going to add some granulated stabilizer today and another gallon of chlorine for now. I vacuumed again and it’s just clear water.

Okay, so just keep in mind that when you add stabilizer (CYA), it requires a higher SLAM FC level. Be sure to keep those matched-up properly for best results during the SLAM Process. Refer to the FC/CYA Levels or that chart I provided earlier. Stick with it until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. You're doing well.

 

[meganmomof8]

Okay, so just keep in mind that when you add stabilizer (CYA), it requires a higher SLAM FC level. Be sure to keep those matched-up properly for best results during the SLAM Process. Refer to the FC/CYA Levels or that chart I provided earlier. Stick with it until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. You're doing well.

So I should wait to add the CYA until I get the new test kit then huh? I didn’t think about the chlorine needing to be higher for the SLAM. I’m just really worried algae is gonna come back while I wait. Think I can get this in order by Saturday evening?