New to the forum & frustrated!

texangurlie

Gold Supporter
Jun 13, 2024
11
kansas city, mo
Pool Size
50000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hi! I am new to this group/forum and near my wits end with our pool. This is the 3rd summer having the pool and opening has always been a long and expensive process…. I don’t know what we’re doing wrong 😭.
Here’s what we know:
50,000 gallon salt water pool with sand filter. Using pentair pump and intellicor salt generator.
1st year, pool was already open and swimmable when we moved in. We had the company prior owners used close the pool. Battled with mustard algae mid-summer.
2nd year, pool was opened by prior pool guy, they “treated” and said vacuum and add XYZ (I cant remember specifics), then should be good to go. Took roughly 2 weeks to get water clear and levels adequate. Again had mustard algae in mid-summer. (By the way, water looked like a pond when opening). Closed by another pool co. We did struggle with CYA readings at 0 throughout the summer, even after adding appropriate amounts of CYA.
3rd year (this year), were on the same track as last year. Pool opened 2 weeks ago and finally got the water blue…. (Or at least not green/teal, etc) but it’s still cloudy. I can barely see the liner in the shallow end, and none at the deep end. My CYA is still at 0, total chlorine above 5 (I apparently need a new test kit from reading other threads) free chlorine 0.

How can my cya be at 0? There has to be some residual amount from last year, right? Pool store had us use floc, and did (before I saw we weren't supposed to with a sand filter-you'd think they would know that since they're the ones who constructed and installed everything) So what do I do about that? Is there a way to throughly rinse/agitate the sand in the filter?
What do I need to do to get AND keep our family in the pool? AHHH!!!!!
Thanks y’all! Really appreciate any tips on getting our pool usable, and what a maintenance schedule should look like for this season!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Unfortunately, it sounds like you've wasted a lot of time and $$$ via the pool store and their notoriously poor water testing and advice. Step #1 - Order your own TF-100/Pro-Series test kit (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. IMO, the TF-Series products are a batter value. With the proper kit, we can coach you through just about anything. For now, just add one gallon of liquid chlorine to the pool each day. Maybe even two since your pool is so large. Don't add anything else right now until we can see some reliable testing.

Until them bookmark and look over our Pool Care Basics for lots of great info.
 
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Tex,

At first glance, I see a couple of issues..

1. You have a 50K pool and the biggest salt cell that Pentair makes is a 60K model.. For a saltwater pool to work well, the cell needs to be at least 2 x the volume of the pool. You can get around this issue, by running 24/7 at 100% output, which I suspect your are not doing.

2. No CYA means that any chlorine that the cell does make, will disappear in an hour or so.

3. I also suspect that you are trying to keep your FC (Chlorine) level at 1 or 2 ppm.

4. Your Pool Store's advice is not working, yet you keep going back for more advice... :scratch:


We can get you pointed in the right direction, but you will have to decide if you want to follow the Pool Store's advice, or ours..

Welcome to TFP.. The only place that actually cares about you, and your pool, and is not trying to sell you something. :)

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Tex,

At first glance, I see a couple of issues..

1. You have a 50K pool and the biggest salt cell that Pentair makes is a 60K model.. For a saltwater pool to work well, the cell needs to be at least 2 x the volume of the pool. You can get around this issue, by running 24/7 at 100% output, which I suspect your are not doing.

2. No CYA means that any chlorine that the cell does make, will disappear in an hour or so.

3. I also suspect that you are trying to keep your FC (Chlorine) level at 1 or 2 ppm.

4. Your Pool Store's advice is not working, yet you keep going back for more advice... :scratch:


We can get you pointed in the right direction, but you will have to decide if you want to follow the Pool Store's advice, or ours..

Welcome to TFP.. The only place that actually cares about you, and your pool, and is not trying to sell you something. :)

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks for the reply. Starting with 4. the prior owners didn’t have these challenges so we figured it was an “us” issue rather than the pool store, but after using a different place (than the original store), we still saw same results. Bringing us to this year, and why I am here! I’ve been doing a lot of online reading which is how I found this site. We haven’t gone back to the pool store this season. I was hoping to avoid going back to the store for anything other than immediate need purchases. ☺️

1. You are correct, we are not running 24/7 at 100%. I believe we have it at 14 hours now 80%, but set up in 2 programmable cycles. (Any recommendations there would be super helpful too ). Are cells interchangeable? Should we go with something different? I thought salt cells normally last around 5ish years, and were coming up on that if so…

2. Should I turn the cell down to 0 while I wait for the test kit/additional advice?

3. Now I’m questioning everything I (thought) I knew about our pool… I was understanding ideal free chlorine was 3? And total chlorine was supposed to be the same?

Thanks again!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Unfortunately, it sounds like you've wasted a lot of time and $$$ via the pool store and their notoriously poor water testing and advice. Step #1 - Order your own TF-100/Pro-Series test kit (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. IMO, the TF-Series products are a batter value. With the proper kit, we can coach you through just about anything. For now, just add one gallon of liquid chlorine to the pool each day. Maybe even two since your pool is so large. Don't add anything else right now until we can see some reliable testing.

Until them bookmark and look over our Pool Care Basics for lots of great info.
Thanks!!
 
What is your CYA in poolmath? Likely why the recommendation of 1-2.

When you raise your CYA, it will change the range.
 

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Tx,

The actual goal is to keep your FC in the Target range or higher.. You should not try to stay between the minimum and your target.

If you have algae, you don't want to increase your CYA above 30 ppm, until after you have killed all the algae..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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What is your CYA in poolmath? Likely why the recommendation of 1-2.

When you raise your CYA, it will change the range.
I understand now. Here’s what Poolmath shows. I haven’t logged any test results yet tho.
Testing with HTH 6 way, and have strips for salt and 6 levels (hardness, TC, FC, pH, TA, & stabilizer)
I am purchasing the recommended kit though.
 
What is your CYA in poolmath? Likely why the recommendation of 1-2.

When you raise your CYA, it will change the range.
I understand now. Here’s what Poolmath shows. I haven’t logged any test results yet tho.
Testing with HTH 6 way, and have strips for salt and
 

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What would really help is if you create a signature in your profile so that all of your pool details get appended to the bottom of every post. That way the folks helping you don’t have to search for information.

At 50,000 gallons, the only SWG by Pentair that you can reasonably use is an IC-60 and even that will have to run almost 24/7 at 80% output to keep your FC in the right range. Hopefully your pool has a variable speed pump as that will help to keep utility costs low. Depending on what pool equipment you have and how it is all setup (do you have any automation?), it may be an option to switch to the largest model CircuPool SWG as they have higher chlorine output. But again, that is all dependent on getting your current issues solved and then we can advise better on future options.

As others have pointed out - pool stores and service companies are not your friends. Unfortunately or fortunately, residential pools are best kept as a do it yourself home expense. You simply can’t afford to contract this out to someone else and expect anything but mediocre results. The good news is, once you learn how to do it yourself, it’s fairly easy to maintain as long as you’re willing to make the time in your schedule to do it. As a former member of TFP used to say, “Pools are like pets - you have to feed them, play with them, and clean up after them EVERY SINGLE DAY.
 
I understand now. Here’s what Poolmath shows. I haven’t logged any test results yet tho.
Testing with HTH 6 way, and have strips for salt and
I would not make any adjustment to your pool based on the test kits you have.

Do not add CYA to get to 75. It will make the SLAM more difficult.

Order the test kit, add 3ppm of liquid chlorine per day, nothing else, until the kit arrives.

When it arrives, follow the SLAM process. Link-->SLAM Process

We'll clear that pool up.
 
I would not make any adjustment to your pool based on the test kits you have.

Do not add CYA to get to 75. It will make the SLAM more difficult.

Order the test kit, add 3ppm of liquid chlorine per day, nothing else, until the kit arrives.

When it arrives, follow the SLAM process. Link-->SLAM Process

We'll clear that pool up.
Got it! I'm not adding anything until I hear from y'all to do so! Really appreciate the responses :)
 
What would really help is if you create a signature in your profile so that all of your pool details get appended to the bottom of every post. That way the folks helping you don’t have to search for information.

At 50,000 gallons, the only SWG by Pentair that you can reasonably use is an IC-60 and even that will have to run almost 24/7 at 80% output to keep your FC in the right range. Hopefully your pool has a variable speed pump as that will help to keep utility costs low. Depending on what pool equipment you have and how it is all setup (do you have any automation?), it may be an option to switch to the largest model CircuPool SWG as they have higher chlorine output. But again, that is all dependent on getting your current issues solved and then we can advise better on future options.

As others have pointed out - pool stores and service companies are not your friends. Unfortunately or fortunately, residential pools are best kept as a do it yourself home expense. You simply can’t afford to contract this out to someone else and expect anything but mediocre results. The good news is, once you learn how to do it yourself, it’s fairly easy to maintain as long as you’re willing to make the time in your schedule to do it. As a former member of TFP used to say, “Pools are like pets - you have to feed them, play with them, and clean up after them EVERY SINGLE DAY.
I thought I did, updated now though. Thanks for the heads up :) As for the SWG, I was curious if there is any benefit to going with a different brand if we're going to need to replace soon anyway. I can do some research as I think I saw a few posts on this topic before.
Initially we were overwhelmed with the pool (still kind of are) but we're definitely seeing the benefit of a DIY approach! Glad to have found TFP!
 
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