Jandy Aqualink setup - I messed up and need some help here

[sharpie101]

I had my system installed when the pool was built, all Jandy. Aqualink w/PDA controlling:
- Single speed pump
- SWG 1400
- a couple of valves for pool/spa
- Heater

A few years down the road my pump died on me, so I decided to purchase a Jandy JEP 2.0 epump ... this is when my troubles started. I tied the comm cable to the extra board labeled "Multiplexed Interface Board" as it had a spare slot for the four wires ... I cant remember why I chose this, but its probably because the one on the front panel was not free and had a cable went to that board.

I tried programming the pump from the PDA, but I messed it up because it always run at 3250 RPMs (yeah, you can guess how cool my power bills are)

The real problem was that my Jandy PLC1400 SWG stopped working. This happened right after I changed the pump, and I did not put 2 and 2 together so I went and bought a new cell. It still did not work and I kept on using liquid chlorine or tabs. Last week I decided to buy a new cell again, I know I am stupid, and guess what? It does not work. The pool has salt, and the SWG Sensor module says everything is working, but it isn't.

I been reading all the paperwork and I am thinking that there is a dip switch that I had to change on my panel for the new pump and I never did.

Also of note, the Multiplexed Interface Board has for plugs, from closer to the camera towards the back there are connected as follows:

1. To Jandy PDA antenna
2. VS Pump ( I connected this one, it was empty before)
3. To red plug on front screen panel board
4. To red plug on Aqualink Main board behind everything

Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the pump running as a real variable speed pump and most important, get the SWG working again? If I need to upgrade my panel to an Aqualink RS or anything like that, I am game.

I am dumping a bunch of pictures of my setup to see if anyone finds fault with what I did, which should be where I connected the pump or my programming on PDA as I did not touch anything else.

Any questions or pictures, please ask. Thanks!

 

[sharpie101]

This is where I noticed the dip switch settings, I only see an option for single speed and two speed pump. Not sure I should select the two speed pump or if I need to upgrade to a different board:

 

[ajw22]

Your Aquapure cell looks like it is generating with the FLOW and CELL ON LEDs on. It may not be communicating its status to your Aqualink system.

@PoolGate can help you with getting your VS pump setup on the PDA.

 

[sharpie101]

Your Aquapure cell looks like it is generating with the FLOW and CELL ON LEDs on. It may not be communicating its status to your Aqualink system.

@PoolGate can help you with getting your VS pump setup on the PDA.

I let it run for one day and FC went from 2.5 to 0. I then took a sample close to a return and checked with my TF100 and it read zero as well. I am sure the cell is not working even though it says otherwise.

I will try and contact PoolGate

Thanks!

 

[PoolGate]

Where does that image come from? Just because your SWG is not communicating with Aqualink, doesn't mean it is not working. From the SWG panel, it is working. It will not show what it does unless it is. Mine loses communication with my Aqualink from time to time and does not show up on any of my screens, but it is still producing chlorine in the background. Usually power-cycling gets it back communicating again. FYI: The SWG also has a 4-wire connection. And you can put 2 wires into each of those slots.

For the VSP, you need to connect the 4-wire multiplex to the VSP and then go into the setup and add it as a VSP.

That is an older Aqualink. Do you know what version it is? Possibly it is pre-VSP.

 

[sharpie101]

Where does that image come from? Just because your SWG is not communicating with Aqualink, doesn't mean it is not working. From the SWG panel, it is working. It will not show what it does unless it is. Mine loses communication with my Aqualink from time to time and does not show up on any of my screens, but it is still producing chlorine in the background. Usually power-cycling gets it back communicating again. FYI: The SWG also has a 4-wire connection. And you can put 2 wires into each of those slots.

For the VSP, you need to connect the 4-wire multiplex to the VSP and then go into the setup and add it as a VSP.

That is an older Aqualink. Do you know what version it is? Possibly it is pre-VSP.

Hi PoolGate, thanks for helping here!

What image are you referring to? the last one is from WaterGuru, it measures a few parameters daily and it is not related to any of the Jandy stuff.

I really do not think the cell is working based on all the chlorine I have been adding. When I first had the pool installed I used to run it quite low, percentage-wise, I have it at 60% now and nothing. I will try to bump it up to 100 or hit Pool Boost.

Regarding the version of Aqualink and it being pre-VSP this could be a real possibility.

Does this help clear what version I have or do I have to find it in the outside box?:

 

[ajw22]

I let it run for one day and FC went from 2.5 to 0. I then took a sample close to a return and checked with my TF100 and it read zero as well. I am sure the cell is not working even though it says otherwise.

You have a TF-100. Use it when reporting all chemistry to us.

Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with the SWG off.

The cell IS generating. Something is consuming your chlorine.

You have a 700 or 1400 cell?

What is your pump runtime?

 

[sharpie101]

You have a TF-100. Use it when reporting all chemistry to us.

Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with the SWG off.

The cell IS generating. Something is consuming your chlorine.

You have a 700 or 1400 cell?

What is your pump runtime?

I used the TF-100 … its up in the thread, I am thinking you missed that part?

The size of the cell, 1400, is also stated both in the original post and my profile. Guessing you missed that as well.

I mean, I am looking for help, but not sure you are looking to help or start an argument. I know my pool chem quite well, I dont know how to setup pump …

 

[PoolGate]

Hi PoolGate, thanks for helping here!

What image are you referring to? the last one is from WaterGuru, it measures a few parameters daily and it is not related to any of the Jandy stuff.

I really do not think the cell is working based on all the chlorine I have been adding. When I first had the pool installed I used to run it quite low, percentage-wise, I have it at 60% now and nothing. I will try to bump it up to 100 or hit Pool Boost.

Regarding the version of Aqualink and it being pre-VSP this could be a real possibility.

Does this help clear what version I have or do I have to find it in the outside box?:

Ah WaterGuru ok. Yeah put it on boost 100% for 24 hours and pump running 24 hours.

Yes that should control a VSP. https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/Products/Manuals/Sub53_2012329101223.pdf

Do you see the setup for the VSP?

 

[ajw22]

The size of the cell, 1400, is also stated both in the original post and my profile. Guessing you missed that as well.

Add it to your signature.

You have an Aqualink PDA not RS system.

23K gal, in ground gunite, 2 HP Jandy pump, 200 sqft Jandy cartridge filter, Jandy SWG, Gulf Stream heat pump, Jandy Aqualink RS, 1HP air blower

 

[sharpie101]

Add it to your signature.

You have an Aqualink PDA not RS system.

23K gal, in ground gunite, 2 HP Jandy pump, 200 sqft Jandy cartridge filter, Jandy SWG, Gulf Stream heat pump, Jandy Aqualink RS, 1HP air blower

Done

 

[sharpie101]

You have a TF-100. Use it when reporting all chemistry to us.

Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with the SWG off.

The cell IS generating. Something is consuming your chlorine.

You have a 700 or 1400 cell?

What is your pump runtime?

Pump runs from 9am until 5pm at 3250 rpms daily.

I know low flow through the cell is a problem, would high flow be an issue as well? Or will the cell produce chlorine while the pump runs at high speed?

 

[sharpie101]

Ah WaterGuru ok. Yeah put it on boost 100% for 24 hours and pump running 24 hours.

Yes that should control a VSP. https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/Products/Manuals/Sub53_2012329101223.pdf

Do you see the setup for the VSP?

Ok. I spent quite a bit of time playing with this today and I am more informed.

The VSP option is there and it was setup. I had it setup at 3250 for the pool and now I remember that I did not know how to accomplish what I wanted to do, which was to run the pump at low speed for 10 or so hours and then have it run at a higher speed for 1 or 2.

I now changed the speed to 1750rpms and the pump is running at that speed. I am confident that with some time and enough playing I can get it to do what I want.

I added chlorine at 7am today, Water Guru measured as follows today at 2pm:

FC 4.0
PH 7.6
CYA 53
TA 52
CH 295
Pool water temperature 91 degrees.

I measured using the TF-100 at 9:30pm

FC 4.5
CC 0
TC 4.5
CYA 60
Pool water temperature (Jandy PDA) 92 degrees

I will leave the pump running overnight and will boost the pool. I will test the water tomorrow morning using the TF-100 at around 6am and will post the results here. With CC being 0 and no sun to eat up my existing chlorine, I should have more chlorine than what I started with since the SWG is running at 100%, correct?

BTW, I have been running the Water Guru since September of last year and have been very impressed with it. Its not perfect, but close enough that you can tell when further testing with the TF-100 is needed. I bought it because I had an issue after being out of town and it helped me get the pool back in shape.

Again, thanks all for the help here.

 

[generessler]

Yes chlorine ought to increase at 2-3 ppm with the cell at 100% overnight. If the panel display is showing "cell on" with no error codes, it's generating FC.

You mentioned that the pump failed and was changed out, then the cell ran for 24 hours and FC went from 2 to zero. That's likely to be when the algae bloomed. Algae easily causes chlorine to deplete faster than the cell makes it even if the water still looks okay. As already mentioned, do an OCLT to verify what's going on.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
... followed - if OCLT fails - by a SLAM to get rid of the algae.
SLAM Process

On your original question, when I went from single speed to VSP, my Aqualink required no DIP switch or wiring changes. Just connected the RS-485, set up the pump speeds, and bob's your uncle. But I have the web interface rather than PDA. Here is a thread that talks about PDA+VSP. Maybe it will help.

 

[sharpie101]

Late reply as I had to take the kids to their last day of school this morning.

Tested at around 7am and here are the results:



The cell appears to be producing chlorine. This was with the pump running at 1725 RPMs and under Pool Boost overnight, so now I have more questions:

- As mentioned earlier, could the pump running at high speed somehow keep the cell from producing chlorine?
- What could be eating my chlorine so fast if my CC is 0?
- I started with the new cell at 50% and upped it to 60%, neither was enough. Is that normal to have to run the cell higher than that?

With my single speed pump I had the cell under 50% until it started failing and then the rate was upped accordingly.

 

[ajw22]

You can have algae with clear water and a CC of 0.

You do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test yet?

 

[sharpie101]

Yes chlorine ought to increase at 2-3 ppm with the cell at 100% overnight. If the panel display is showing "cell on" with no error codes, it's generating FC.

You mentioned that the pump failed and was changed out, then the cell ran for 24 hours and FC went from 2 to zero. That's likely to be when the algae bloomed. Algae easily causes chlorine to deplete faster than the cell makes it even if the water still looks okay. As already mentioned, do an OCLT to verify what's going on.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
... followed - if OCLT fails - by a SLAM to get rid of the algae.
SLAM Process

On your original question, when I went from single speed to VSP, my Aqualink required no DIP switch or wiring changes. Just connected the RS-485, set up the pump speeds, and bob's your uncle. But I have the web interface rather than PDA. Here is a thread that talks about PDA+VSP. Maybe it will help.

generessler, thanks for chiming in. A few things that might have been not clear:

05/2011 - Pool built
08/2014 - Single speed pump died and is replaced with a Jandy VSP running at 3250 RPMs
09/2014 - Notice original PLC1400 cell stopped producing chlorine and new one was installed
09/2014 on - The new was never able to keep the chlorine production and tablets/liquid chlorine has been used since.
05/2024 - I bought a new cell as I am tired of carrying chlorine and started this thread.

Why would I need to go through the SLAM process if my CC is 0? Would a reading of 0 for cc indicate that there is nothing to kill?

 

[sharpie101]

You can have algae with clear water and a CC of 0.

You do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test yet?

Unfortunately we only have one night every 24hrs here in Florida and I was testing the cell. I can do an OCLT tonight and confirm tomorrow.

Let's assume I do have chlorine loss with a CC reading of 0, what could be causing this? and will the SLAM procedure kill whatever is causing it?

 

[ajw22]

Would a reading of 0 for cc indicate that there is nothing to kill?

Nope.

 

[ajw22]

Unfortunately we only have one night every 24hrs here in Florida and I was testing the cell. I can do an OCLT tonight and confirm tomorrow.

Let's assume I do have chlorine loss with a CC reading of 0, what could be causing this? and will the SLAM procedure kill whatever is causing it?

Let’s not play assume games and take this one step at a time.

Do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and report the results and we will see what the next step is.

It is good that you confirmed you cell does work.