Liquid-tight conduit to RJ60+

[Sampo]

I’ve been considering the idea of installing a SWG. I'm looking at the Circupool RJ60+ (based on the recommendation from @Newdude ). At the moment, I’m scoping out my pad for a DIY installation.

For power, I’d plan to get 240V from the "Aux Relay 1" on my Jandy VS pump (same plan as this thread). But somehow I don’t love the idea of running the SWG power cable unexposed over my pool pad. It seems that it might be better to protect the line in some Liquid-tight nonmetallic conduit (which is used for the other electrical connections on my pad).

But here I have a few questions:

1) Is this overkill? Do most Circupool users just run the power cable unexposed and call it a day?

2) Does the Control Module on the RJ60+ have a knockout that would accommodate a connection to the flexible conduit?

3) Would it be better to sheath the original SWG power cable within that conduit, or instead to cut it off and run some THWN between the pump and the control module?

Thanks!

Sampo

P.S. I’m still not 100% committed to the SWG idea. My hesitation remains needing the corresponding salt levels in my pool. I’ve been SLOWLY raising the salinity. But just as I feared, I started to be able to taste the salt at about 1,500 ppm. I’m now at 2,000 ppm, and still have a bit to go to get to the 3,500 ppm target.

 

[Newdude]

1) Is this overkill? Do most Circupool users just run the power cable unexposed and call it a day?

Yes and yes. Mine is zip tied to the plumbing to keep off the ground and neat.

2) Does the Control Module on the RJ60+ have a knockout that would accommodate a connection to the flexible conduit?

No. But if you're handy enough to over engineer the rest of it, drilling your own knockout should be no problem.

3) Would it be better to sheath the original SWG power cable within that conduit, or instead to cut it off and run some THWN between the pump and the control module?

I would leave the cell connections alone and use the factory cord.

Hang tight for more thoughts.

 

[proavia]

Drilling a larger hole in the controller box may void the warranty.
Call Circupool and ask about that. Get their reply in writing if you can.

I ran mine in an old piece of flex conduit. The conduit has a loop between the SWG controller and timer. The low point of that loop has a 1/4" hole drilled in it for drainage in case any water gets in the conduit from the controller side (where the flex conduit is open to the air). No idea if this is code legal - I just wanted the SWG power cord protected from the AZ sun.

I also ran the wire from the cell to the controller and flow switch wire in a UV resistant split wire loom to protect them from the sun as well.

 

[Sampo]

...if you're handy enough to over engineer the rest of it...

I would leave the cell connections alone and use the factory cord.

Sounds good. I think I'll go with this plan. Presumably their cord is designed for the task anyway.

 

[Sampo]

Drilling a larger hole in the controller box may void the warranty.
Call Circupool and ask about that. Get their reply in writing if you can.

That's an excellent point. This isn't worth compromising the warranty.

I ran mine in an old piece of flex conduit. The conduit has a loop between the SWG controller and timer. The low point of that loop has a 1/4" hole drilled in it for drainage in case any water gets in the conduit from the controller side (where the flex conduit is open to the air). No idea if this is code legal - I just wanted the SWG power cord protected from the AZ sun.

Makes sense. I might consider a similar approach and sheathe a part of the run for both physical and sun protection. But if I do that, I think I'll leave both ends as low points and secure the covered part permanently higher in an arc. I probably wouldn't even need UL listed conduit for that. Or maybe just go with the KISS principle and leave it uncovered, as designed.

 

[djdonte]

I just used the cord that came with it and penetrated my timer box with a 90 degree water tight connector facing down. The one I have is 1/2 in I think and was way cheaper but you get the idea. I got it at a big box store but can't find it currently. Water can't travel uphill so as long as the cord dips down between the SWG control box and power supply you are good. I do not think you need liquid tight conduit. There would be no way to terminate it at the control box end without cutting things anyway.

https://www.grainger.com/product/5D801?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=4&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rO6oOZKhfeaHPa2pKo9kkuym6T9pWwbU5S5dPY-0TG8NtQXIdDgNjxoCasYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Sampo]

Nice. I settled on a similar plan: I found these "cable glands" on Amazon. The whole box of them was about the price of that fancy metal connector -- although the amazon version probably isn't UL listed.

 

[djdonte]

That is the way to go. It’s best if you can have the wire enter from the bottom of whatever enclosure it’s penetrating. If not make sure the wire loops down below the point of entry before it goes into the box so no water can drip in.