RJ-60+ new install questions

[apono]

Hi everyone! First of all - thank you for all information available in wiki and other places and thanks to all who help others in this pool journey. This forum helped me a lot with how to properly manage my pool using liquid chlorine, now it's time to convert it to SWG.

I bought CircuPool® RJ-60 PLUS and have several questions about installing it properly. Main question is where to install the cell and the flow switch. In all options I'm planning to add a dedicated breaker for the SWG and connect it to the pump breaker. In this case SWG will be working only if pump breaker is on.
1. Install both after the heater but before all outlet valves (IMG_2415).
pros:
- no need to think about which outlet valves are on (swg will generate chlorine when pump is on unless swg breaker is off);
cons:
- in case there is something wrong with valves (all closed) - risk to have high pressure on cell;
- if we need to use just spa - need to manually switch off the swg breaker to avoid overchlorination;
2. Install both on return jets outlet pipe (IMG_2422).
pros:
- no risk if all outlet valves closed by mistake (since it's installed after all valves);
- no risk to overchlorinate spa in case forget to turn off the swg;
cons:
- need to manually switch off the swg breaker (rely on flow switch is a bad idea as I understand);
3. Install the cell before valves and flow switch after all valves on return jets pipe.
pros:
- no need to manually control the swg breaker when in spa mode (it will be controlled by flow switch - still not very safe);
cons:
- all valves closed risk;

I see option 2 as more preferable with manual control of swg breaker in spa mode.

Other questions:
1. I have automatic chlorinator. Do I need to install SWG only after it? Or it’s completely fine to install it before? I'm not sure if it adds significant pressure. In case of installing after all valves - it doesn't matter since the cell will be after it.
2. In future I’m planning to install VSP. In the documentation they say that I need to "invert the cell in order" (screenshot attached). What does it mean? Install the flow switch before the cell? Or rotate the cell and the switch tops to 90 degree? Is it better to "invert" the cell now?
3. Is it possible to install something that will release water if there is an excessive pressure after the heater in case all valves accidentally closed (if options 1 and 3)?
4. 6-12” straight pipe before the flow switch means around the switch or only before? Can I install it right before a valve (after the cell)?

Thank you!!!

 

[Newdude]

It works where it sits on the ground if the hump will have enough clearance to be facing down. At low speed the hump fills with gas with some systems when the hump is up.

I also like going vertical past the physical space of the filter, so you can still work on it. The flow switch always needs to go on the up pipe, and the SWG doesnt matter but will go on the down pipe.




For using the spa you set the production real low, like say 5%. You need chloronation in the spa, you're not enjoying a nice soak, you're making people soup.


Ditch the chlorinator while you are out there cutting and gluing. . Use a floater if you ever need pucks.

With a SS pump, you have oodles of flow. The flow switch only gets picky sometimes with low RPMs. The straight pipe is referring to before the flow switch. It doesn't care what happens after. The cell counts as straight pipe, but I'd personally rather it be before the cell, even if that means it's closer to a 90.

 

[apono]

"CircuPool® Vertical Installation Kit" ordered. I think it will be a good replacement of 2x 45" fittings between the filter and the first valve.

 

[Newdude]

It's hard to gauge the clearance of the pump pipe from the pic. You may need to swoop it to the right first.




The circupool kit is great but its nothing special. Don't hesitate to make your own if need be.

 

[apono]

It's hard to gauge the clearance of the pump pipe from the pic. You may need to swoop it to the right first.

View attachment 559255


The circupool kit is great but its nothing special. Don't hesitate to make your own if need be.

Thank you! I will add pics when it arrives.

 

[apono]

Can I buy connections and pipes in HD/Lowes for example? Or better to find something special for pools?

 

[Newdude]

Can I buy connections and pipes in HD/Lowes for example? Or better to find something special for pools?

There is no pool plumbing. Only pressure plumbing and drain plumbing. The drain fitting have smaller collars because it's only gravity fed and doesn't need the extra strength. Stick your finger in the collar and if it goes to your fingernail, it's a drain fitting. If it goes to your first knuckle (roughly twice as deep), then it's a pressure fitting and the one you want. You have to hunt at HD for them, but they're there.

I prefer going to a plumbing supply store when it's not an emergency Sunday afternoon fix. (note, not a plumbing aisle). Google plumbing supply and all the places the actual plumbers go by you will come up. Show them a pic and give them a list and they'll scurry in the back and bring you out a box full of parts.

 

[Newdude]

Also, if it's been a while or your first time, I always reccomend buying an extra T. It'll give you 3 practice tries for $4(?) and by the time it's for real, you'll be a pro at it.

 

[HermanTX]

Can I buy connections and pipes in HD/Lowes for example? Or better to find something special for pools?

At HD/Lowes there are 2 sections - PVC pipe section and a DWV (drain waste vent) section. Now they may be next to one another so it is feasible that items get put back in the wrong section. @Newdude gave good example on measurements.

Also PVC pipe for plumbing and pools is marked Sch 40 or Sch 80 (the 80 is a higher working pressure) but Sch 40 is all you need.
It is always best to buy more fittings than you think you need because things change as you are fitting it together. Just return unused fittings.
Sometimes it is harder to find sweep elbows (Sch 40) so may need to order from a plumbing store or even on Amazon. HD does carry sweep elbows for DWV so don’t get confused. It should be marked DWV so don’t buy that One.

Remember to dry fit all first before you glue just to ensure the measurements are correct.

 

[Newdude]

It should be marked DWV so don’t buy that One.

They're backwards compatible so sometimes the pressure fittings are marked DWV. At that point, compare the collars. Once you see the difference it's hard to unsee.

But 3 years from now long forgotten, use your fingertip again because goldfish brain. Ask me how i know.

 

[apono]

Sharing my progress - plumbing part is done!

 

[apono]

Why do I have those spots? I had them before but less. After I installed SWG - looks like now I have more.
Maybe because I used Clorox salt (I read about copper in this salt after I had added it)?
Maybe because I don't have a proper bypass for the heater?
How would you suggest to deal with this problem?
I'm thinking about installing additional valve on the return pipe from the heater, but maybe there is a better way?
Thank you!

 

[Newdude]

Why do I have those spots? I had them before but less. After I installed SWG - looks like now I have more.

It's going to be a timing with the season kinda thing, not a timing with the SWG kinda thing.

Got any trees that drop tannin / staining stuffs ?

 

[apono]

I have a screen, so it’s not a big problem. But yes, small parts go through the screen. You think it’s not copper?

 

[Texas Splash]

You think it’s not copper?

A bit early to tell. Try rubbing a chlorine tablet on the stain (organic). If that doesn't work, try Vitamin C tablets (iron). After that, if you have some dry acid laying around (i.e. pH Down) you can try that as well (copper).