Pre-Close Chemical Balancing

[RuggedPool]

preparing to close for the 1st time.

I live in the mid-Tennessee area and will not be putting a cover on my pool. I will be winterizing my pump, SWG, heater, etc because I have lost power enough times in the past to be concerned if it also gets really cold. This year I will hire someone to blow out the lines because I don't have a cyclone blower yet but I will learn how to DIY for next season.

Here is what I tested today...what adjustments do I need to make before I shut it down. Also, even though it will be 'closed' since it will be uncovered what should I do for water treatment between now and April/May?

Ph 8.2
Cl /Br >5-10
FC 10.5
CC 1
TC 11.5
Total alkalinity 100
Calcium hardness 525
I forgot to test CYA--and it's too dark now, not sure it's needed ??

 

[Bperry]

preparing to close for the 1st time.

I live in the mid-Tennessee area and will not be putting a cover on my pool. I will be winterizing my pump, SWG, heater, etc because I have lost power enough times in the past to be concerned if it also gets really cold. This year I will hire someone to blow out the lines because I don't have a cyclone blower yet but I will learn how to DIY for next season.

Here is what I tested today...what adjustments do I need to make before I shut it down. Also, even though it will be 'closed' since it will be uncovered what should I do for water treatment between now and April/May?

Ph 8.2
Cl /Br >5-10
FC 10.5
CC 1
TC 11.5
Total alkalinity 100
Calcium hardness 525
I forgot to test CYA--and it's too dark now, not sure it's needed ??

I can save you some time by having you stop testing the CL/Br as that’s a less accurate duplicate test for chlorine than the FAS-DPD(powder and drops). You can also ignore the TC number as it’s not a real measurement and just a math sum of the FC and CC.

That said, having 1ppm CC might be something to correct before closing. You can try an overnight chlorine loss test to see what’s going on, but you do need the CYA test result so do that, but warm up the sample to room temperature first.

 

[Newdude]

Ph 8.2

Adjust to mid 7.

Cl /Br >5-10

FYI, it's 2 different tests and its either/or. So it'll be Cl 5 for chlorine pools or Br 10 for bromine pools/spas. They show up the same. Everyone, myself included, always thinks it's a range at first.

But the block FC test isn't accurate. And doesn't tell you FC/CC. 4 and 0 and 3 and 1 look the same as both are 4 TC, yet tell 2 totally different stories. Forget about both the block test, and TC as said above.

 

[RuggedPool]

I can save you some time by having you stop testing the CL/Br as that’s a less accurate duplicate test for chlorine than the FAS-DPD(powder and drops). You can also ignore the TC number as it’s not a real measurement and just a math sum of the FC and CC.

That said, having 1ppm CC might be something to correct before closing. You can try an overnight chlorine loss test to see what’s going on, but you do need the CYA test result so do that, but warm up the sample to room temperature first.

I’ll report back tomorrow with the cya result. Also, my swg is set to 0% for right now, not sure that matters. And what’s a chlorine loss test?

 

[Newdude]

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

2 things consume FC, the sun and organics. If you lose FC with the UV out of the equation, there is algae brewing.

 

[Mdragger88]

You need to know your cya as that is the crux for maintaining the correct fc.
See —> FC/CYA Levels
The idea is :
*ensure the pool is algae free by doing the
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (if you don’t pass you will need to do the SLAM Process before proceeding with closing)
*Then ensure it remains algae free while closed by:
Closing after water temps are 60 degrees consistently,
& raising fc to slam level for your cya so you’re able to keep fc above minimum until opening
optional* adding polyquat 60 after fc falls to 1/2 way between slam level & target.
Without a cover you may want to go the optional polyquat route for extra insurance.
With the pool uncovered you can always throw a submersible pump in to get a somewhat mixed sample & add carefully a little liquid chlorine if needed later -like if there’s a warm spell.
*The final step is to open the pool before the water temp gets above 60 degrees & do an oclt at that time to ensure you’re good to go before proceeding with regular maintenance.

 

[RuggedPool]

Okay updated results
-------
OCLT morning 11/28
FC 9.5
CC 0.5
TC 10.0
CYA <30
-------------
Pool test evening 11/27
Ph 8.2
Cl >5
FC 10.5
CC 1
TC 11.5
Total alkalinity 100
Calcium hardness 525

 

[Bperry]

Okay updated results
-------
OCLT morning 11/28
FC 9.5
CC 0.5
TC 10.0
CYA <30
-------------
Pool test evening 11/27
Ph 8.2
Cl >5
FC 10.5
CC 1
TC 11.5
Total alkalinity 100
Calcium hardness 525

You passed. The CYA<30 might need to be increased to actually be 30. But since you are closing it and not covering it seems like one of those 50/50 decisions.

If you are draining water out of it, I might add the CYA afterwards, but if you keep the water level up I’d add it now. But I don’t think you lose any points for just leaving it until spring either.

And no more reporting TC.

 

[RuggedPool]

You passed. The CYA<30 might need to be increased to actually be 30. But since you are closing it and not covering it seems like one of those 50/50 decisions.

If you are draining water out of it, I might add the CYA afterwards, but if you keep the water level up I’d add it now. But I don’t think you lose any points for just leaving it until spring either.

And no more reporting TC.

Thanks!

Since I'm not covering the pool, I will drain a couple of inches out to the lower third of the waterline tile to give me room for rainfall add. I'll add some muriatic acid today to lower the pH...is that common, my pH is always high?

And, what winter water maintenance should I do? add chlorine tabs in one of those floating dispensers or pour liquid in (even with pumps off is that ok?)

 

[Bperry]

pH will always tend to rise overtime unless acid is added. You can reduce the speed it raises by keeping the TA lower at around 50 or 60 ppm. But rainfall over the winter may also keep it in check.

Since your CYA is low, you can put a floater with some pucks in it as long as they’re not Clorox xtrablue.

 

[Mdragger88]

If you need to add liquid chlorine you can use a submersible pump to help circulate the water or just pour very very slowly and brush around at the same time so it gets mixed well & isn’t allowed to pool up anywhere.