Major Scale Problem on New Build Pool.

ptd25505

Member
Oct 24, 2023
5
Nang Rong. Thailand
My pool contractor finished before my main contractor finished the house build. I had no electricity. The pool contractor told me this wasn't a problem and he loaded the pool up with salt and a shock dose of chlorine and left site.
The pool sat there for 6 weeks and I finally got an electrical supply, so I put all the pumps filters and salt water chlorinators into action, the water cleaned up nicely and the chlorinators were doing the job. But when I tested the water I found out that the ph reading was off the charts, too high to measure; so I started to lower the ph with Muriatic acid, I now have the ph stable at around 7.5.
Now here lies the problem, the whole pool including the LED lights are covered in scale. it can be removed with a scraper, but my pool 15 x 8 metres long and an average depth of 1.5 mtr and this will take forever.
My question is what is the best way to get rid of this scale ?
Can it be done slowly over time chemically ?
If I lower the ph even further to move the water more towards the acidity range would this help ?
Or is manual labor the only path forward ?
 
My pool contractor finished before my main contractor finished the house build. I had no electricity. The pool contractor told me this wasn't a problem and he loaded the pool up with salt and a shock dose of chlorine and left site.
The pool sat there for 6 weeks and I finally got an electrical supply, so I put all the pumps filters and salt water chlorinators into action, the water cleaned up nicely and the chlorinators were doing the job. But when I tested the water I found out that the ph reading was off the charts, too high to measure; so I started to lower the ph with Muriatic acid, I now have the ph stable at around 7.5.
Now here lies the problem, the whole pool including the LED lights are covered in scale. it can be removed with a scraper, but my pool 15 x 8 metres long and an average depth of 1.5 mtr and this will take forever.
My question is what is the best way to get rid of this scale ?
Can it be done slowly over time chemically ?
If I lower the ph even further to move the water more towards the acidity range would this help ?
Or is manual labor the only path forward ?
Do you have a reliable way to test for calcium, total alkalinity, CYA and chlorine?

Salt is generally forbidden for the first 30 days after plaster is done, what kind of surface is your pool?
 
No, I'm struggling to get reliable test results, the unit I was using has now gone back under warranty. Looking for better testing options.
The surface of my pool is ceramic tiles. Does the 30 day rule apply to here ?
30 day rule may not apply in that case.

See if you can look up Taylor test reagents or kits and find one with a FAS-DPD chlorine test. Clearchoice labs also has similar kits as Taylor and they are in Australia (I think?)
 
I have bitten the bullet and ordered a TAYLOR 2000 SERIES COMPL TEST KIT from the USA today, at least I know I will have a quality product to use. I also sent water samples to a lab for analysis in the near term, at least I will know exactly what I am up against.
Thank you very much for your support.
 
Well done on the Taylor kit. I don't think Clear Choices Labs would have been an option. As far as I know, the only country they ship to outside of Australia is New Zealand.
 
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I have bitten the bullet and ordered a TAYLOR 2000 SERIES COMPL TEST KIT from the USA today, at least I know I will have a quality product to use. I also sent water samples to a lab for analysis in the near term, at least I will know exactly what I am up against.Thank you very much for your support.

That’s a good kit but looks like it’s missing the FAS-DPD test for chlorine. You can hopefully buy that separately in the future.
 
Good pick, I missed that the last digit wasn't a six. Sometimes they have the R-0870 and R-0871 FAS-DPD reagents on Amazon and with prime it's usually free international shipping.
 
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Forgot to mention R-0003 to test for CC, but I think that is included in the 2000.

The 2000 is also missing reagents for TA, CH and CYA.

CYA is crucial, otherwise you won't know which FC level to target (FC/CYA Levels).

TA and CH are also important, especially in your case with scale formation.

If you still have a chance to cancel your order and upgrade to the K-2006 (I'd recommend the C version with more reagents). There is also a salt version which includes the salt test reagents, but you can add the K1766 salt test stand-alone.

But I know, I know. That might be wishful thinking to get that all to Thailand. See what you can source, and get back to us. For TA and CH we may be able to improvise with aquarium supplies (needs some tweaks because aquarium kits don't expect chlorine to be in the water).
 

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Hopefully I can cover all the comments above, I have attached a picture of the test kit I have on order.
The scale is grey and quite stubborn to remove.
I think my problem could be generated by the steps down into the pool, they are finished off in "Sandwash"
 

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I had the same problem but on a fiberglass pool. Pool sat for almost 2 months and 2 separate times had copious amounts of chlorine added with no pump running. No one was told the other person had already shocked the pool. Then the PH skyrocketed and leached out all of the minerals and heavy metals from the gravel/debris that was still in the pool. I had the same scale grey/ slightly tan. I tried everything. I had to keep the PH low and just scrub every surface. If muriatic acid reacts to it you might be in luck. If there is no fizzle you will have a lot of work ahead of you.
 
Hopefully I can cover all the comments above, I have attached a picture of the test kit I have on order.
The scale is grey and quite stubborn to remove.
I think my problem could be generated by the steps down into the pool, they are finished off in "Sandwash"

Awesome, that is perfect. Was just a typo then, when you wrote K2000. You did get the K2006, even the salt version.
 
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