Jandy Aqualink relay fried - Help!

[davidwat]

Help - A diagnostic challenge(with no unifying answer?)

History of present illness

1 Jandy Stealth pump (3 years after replacement of dead single speed original motor with 2 speed Century 2–2.5 hp) [edit - actually 1.5->2.2 hp] shows diminished volume, begins to make noise , then quits pumping but runs.
2 I replace the diffuser broken into two pieces, and things work well with full restoration of flow for a week
3 Wife notices fountain not working but polaris 280 slowly moving on bottom. Pump is off and hot.
4 Pump allowed to cool down and is restarted with normal function and no noise but pump starts to run hot (171 deg max) though pump doesn’t turn off.
5 Smell of burnt plastic or insulation noticed from Jandy Aqualink RS box.
6 Filter pump does not go into low speed mode though PDA shows in low speed mode
7 Polaris cleaner booster pump is on but does not respond to control board although light above button goes on and off when pressed
8 ON opening Aqualink controller box - 3yr old 2 speed relay is melted.




Questions


Pump temp and increased Amperage (171 deg, 9 amps using old RS clamp ammeter)
Is there a unifying defect ( excluding the owner)? or are there two bad relays (filter pump and cleaner pump)?
How do I rewire in the short term so I can use my chlorinator and not burn up my cleaner pump?


My short term (tomorrow) plan - I need chlorinator.

Keep stuff turned off at breaker box until -
Check pump and diffuser in case there is pump obstruction. Take it apart again?
Figure out how to test cleaner pump relay.
Figure out how to take old 2 speed relay out of path and still get power to filter pump.
Put switch(?) on cleaner so it won’t run all the time.
Order new 2 speed relay switch
Try to figure out why filter pump runs hot

I apologize for the length. Thanks for any input
David - Dallas

 

[davidwat]

Burned relay and Jandy PCB label and current pump.

 

[1poolman1]

Burned relay and Jandy PCB label

Burned wire likely goes back to the pump relay. One of the other wires on that 2-speed relay goes to the high-speed windings in the motor. Follow the burned wire back, replace it with the high-speed wire and the pump will become a single-speed.

 

[davidwat]

Burned wire likely goes back to the pump relay. One of the other wires on that 2-speed relay goes to the high-speed windings in the motor. Follow the burned wire back, replace it with the high-speed wire and the pump will become a single-speed.

Burned relay and Jandy PCB label and current pump.

Thanks for your help. Removing and bypassing the 2 speed relay has allowed me to resume filtration, chlorination, and cleaning but on high speed only.

1) Is there fixable “reason” I should consider for the failure of this relay? (see image below) Do they fail often?

2) Both the filter pump and the cleaner booster pump motors are running over 170 deg (65-70 deg above ambient here in Texas). Is this good for the pump or motor?

3) I can see charring at one connection of the #1 relay Is this due to the improper connection of two wires to one screw? Should I pigtail it?

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks for your help. Removing and bypassing the 2 speed relay has allowed me to resume filtration, chlorination, and cleaning but on high speed only.

1) Is there fixable “reason” I should consider for the failure of this relay? (see image below) Do they fail often?

2) Both the filter pump and the cleaner booster pump motors are running over 170 deg (65-70 deg above ambient here in Texas). Is this good for the pump or motor?

3) I can see charring at one connection of the #1 relay Is this due to the improper connection of two wires to one screw? Should I pigtail it?

Pig tail would be better. Never liked using stranded wire without a terminal end like the far right. As you can see from the picture, the black wire has less strands than the red. When the screw was tightened it clamped on the larger red bundle leaving the black a little loose. Loose connection=heat build up=burned connection.

 

[davidwat]

Pig tail would be better. Never liked using stranded wire without a terminal end like the far right. As you can see from the picture, the black wire has less strands than the red. When the screw was tightened it clamped on the larger red bundle leaving the black a little loose. Loose connection=heat build up=burned connection.

Hey 1 pool man 1 - I just counted and you have submitted today 20 pertinent insightful replies to questions on the forum. You deserve a medal and a fifth of Jack Daniels. Thanks very much for your help.

 

[1poolman1]

Hey 1 pool man 1 - I just counted and you have submitted today 20 pertinent insightful replies to questions on the forum. You deserve a medal and a fifth of Jack Daniels. Thanks very much for your help.

There's a lot of good advice here. I'm just one of many, but thank you.

 

[davidwat]

Help - A diagnostic challenge(with no unifying answer?)

History of present illness

1 Jandy Stealth pump (3 years after replacement of dead single speed original motor with 2 speed Century 2–2.5 hp) [edit - actually 1.5->2.2 hp] shows diminished volume, begins to make noise , then quits pumping but runs.
2 I replace the diffuser broken into two pieces, and things work well with full restoration of flow for a week
3 Wife notices fountain not working but polaris 280 slowly moving on bottom. Pump is off and hot.
4 Pump allowed to cool down and is restarted with normal function and no noise but pump starts to run hot (171 deg max) though pump doesn’t turn off.
5 Smell of burnt plastic or insulation noticed from Jandy Aqualink RS box.
6 Filter pump does not go into low speed mode though PDA shows in low speed mode
7 Polaris cleaner booster pump is on but does not respond to control board although light above button goes on and off when pressed
8 ON opening Aqualink controller box - 3yr old 2 speed relay is melted.




Questions


Pump temp and increased Amperage (171 deg, 9 amps using old RS clamp ammeter)
Is there a unifying defect ( excluding the owner)? or are there two bad relays (filter pump and cleaner pump)?
How do I rewire in the short term so I can use my chlorinator and not burn up my cleaner pump?


My short term (tomorrow) plan - I need chlorinator.

Keep stuff turned off at breaker box until -
Check pump and diffuser in case there is pump obstruction. Take it apart again?
Figure out how to test cleaner pump relay.
Figure out how to take old 2 speed relay out of path and still get power to filter pump.
Put switch(?) on cleaner so it won’t run all the time.
Order new 2 speed relay switch
Try to figure out why filter pump runs hot

I apologize for the length. Thanks for any input
David - Dallas

Follow Up - using two 9v batteries in series I was able to trigger the other (non2speed ) relays to support that they are functioning. It turns out the aqualink board was bad. Switching out this board updated my unit to an iAqualink iq30 which is functioning properly.