More suction with less output feed?

[zamboknee]

Would I get more suction (outward pull) with my pump if I plugged one of these outlets?
Pump is an Intex C1000 with an Orcafilter cartridge.
No matter how often I add shock, algeacide or clarifier I just can't get the cloudiness out of the pool.

 

[Newdude]

How are you testing? That'll be your downfall. Algecides and clarifiers are band aids that do nothing for the root of the problem....... inaccurate testing and improper sanitization.



With a small pool, many just dump it and start over when it gets out of hand. If you'd like to battle it, get on with the SLAM Process

 

[zamboknee]

Thanks @Newdude . I'd dump and refill but it's too late in season. I'll probably have to SLAM (duh-duh-DUM)

 

[Hatman52]

U.S. law requires two inlets for anti entrapment purposes.

The pump will pull whatever its capacity is, regardless of the number of inlets. Now, going from two to one would increase the velocity of the water moving into the inlet, which may be a slight benefit. But that pump/filter unit is only slightly better than nothing, so I'm not sure I'd go to the trouble.

We had that exact same pool several years back in our pool "evolution" (that has coincided with our daughter aging). That was the pool where I finally decided it was too big to dump the water every time it turned green, and decided to figure out how to prevent it from happening. Coincidentally, that was when I found TFP.! I got a good test kit, bought chlorine, threw away the pucks, the algaecides, the clarifiers, and all the other snake oil, and learned how to test and maintain our pool. It's a skill that's served me well as we are now at our current 16' x 48" pool.

Even though it's later in the year, why not take the opportunity to "perfect your craft?" Hone your skills now prior to closing up the pool for the season, and you'll hit the ground running next year!

 

[zamboknee]

U.S. law requires two inlets for anti entrapment purposes.

The pump will pull whatever its capacity is, regardless of the number of inlets. Now, going from two to one would increase the velocity of the water moving into the inlet, which may be a slight benefit. But that pump/filter unit is only slightly better than nothing, so I'm not sure I'd go to the trouble.

We had that exact same pool several years back in our pool "evolution" (that has coincided with our daughter aging). That was the pool where I finally decided it was too big to dump the water every time it turned green, and decided to figure out how to prevent it from happening. Coincidentally, that was when I found TFP.! I got a good test kit, bought chlorine, threw away the pucks, the algaecides, the clarifiers, and all the other snake oil, and learned how to test and maintain our pool. It's a skill that's served me well as we are now at our current 16' x 48" pool.

Even though it's later in the year, why not take the opportunity to "perfect your craft?" Hone your skills now prior to closing up the pool for the season, and you'll hit the ground running next year!

Thanks Hatman.
Yeah, I'm in the process of SLAMming it now. Took the inlet down to 1, brushed the interior, cleaned the filter, did the test kit, dumped about 8 ounces of liquid chlorine in there with the pump running continous. Put another 6 or so ounces of chlorine in again this morning.
Will let repeat that for a couple days and see if there's improvement.

As far as testing before SLAM, it was not what I expected though.
CC was in the normal range.
PH was normal
But Alkalinity was at 30ppm. Normal is supposed to be at least 80, right?

Couldn't test CYA as my kit (Taylor K1004) is a couple years old with no CYA test.

 

[Hatman52]

Thanks Hatman.
Yeah, I'm in the process of SLAMming it now. Took the inlet down to 1, brushed the interior, cleaned the filter, did the test kit, dumped about 8 ounces of liquid chlorine in there with the pump running continous. Put another 6 or so ounces of chlorine in again this morning.
Will let repeat that for a couple days and see if there's improvement.

As far as testing before SLAM, it was not what I expected though.
CC was in the normal range.
PH was normal
But Alkalinity was at 30ppm. Normal is supposed to be at least 80, right?

Couldn't test CYA as my kit (Taylor K1004) is a couple years old with no CYA test.

You can get the Taylor CYA test here for under $40:

Taylor Cyanuric Acid Visual Determination Pool Test Kit - K-1721

This is a Taylor Visual Cyanuric Acid Pool Test Kit. The K-1721 Kit tests for Cyanuric Acid using a visual determination system and turbidimetric method.One of the most common chemicals used for the prevention of chlorine loss in swimming pools is Cyanuric Acid (also called CYA, Conditioner, or...

www.poolweb.com

What's your Free Chlorine at right now?

TA is important, but not critical. My Pool Math shows recommended between 50-90, and Ideal between 60-80.

CYA and FC are really the key components of getting your green pool cleared up.

 

[Newdude]

$21 at tftestkits.net for the CYA test kit. Great customer service and they ship daily.

 

[zamboknee]

You can get the Taylor CYA test here for under $40:

Taylor Cyanuric Acid Visual Determination Pool Test Kit - K-1721

This is a Taylor Visual Cyanuric Acid Pool Test Kit. The K-1721 Kit tests for Cyanuric Acid using a visual determination system and turbidimetric method.One of the most common chemicals used for the prevention of chlorine loss in swimming pools is Cyanuric Acid (also called CYA, Conditioner, or...

www.poolweb.com

What's your Free Chlorine at right now?

TA is important, but not critical. My Pool Math shows recommended between 50-90, and Ideal between 60-80.

CYA and FC are really the key components of getting your green pool cleared up.

Right now, after 24 hours of filter running and about 3 applications of liquid chlorine my FC is at 5.

I ordered the cya test kit. Thanks

 

[Hatman52]

As you can see from the chart posted above, FC of 5 ppm is below the SLAM minimum for any level of CYA. I'd get the FC level up to around 20 while you're waiting for the CYA test kit.

 

[zamboknee]

sorry my fingers are in the background but I don't think it matters here.

 

[zamboknee]

Got the CYA test. Looks like pool is at 30 apparently.

 

[kellyfair]

Wait - you are using the block test for chlorine? That isn’t nearly precise enough. Do you have the FAS-DPD test?

 

[zamboknee]

Wait - you are using the block test for chlorine? That isn’t nearly precise enough. Do you have the FAS-DPD test?

I used the cya test linked above.

Taylor Cyanuric Acid Visual Determination Pool Test Kit - K-1721

This is a Taylor Visual Cyanuric Acid Pool Test Kit. The K-1721 Kit tests for Cyanuric Acid using a visual determination system and turbidimetric method.One of the most common chemicals used for the prevention of chlorine loss in swimming pools is Cyanuric Acid (also called CYA, Conditioner, or...

www.poolweb.com

 

[kellyfair]

That’s the CYA test. What are you using to test for chlorine?

 

[zamboknee]

That’s the CYA test. What are you using to test for chlorine?

This

 

[Newdude]

That's no Bueno. It only tests TC and isn't accurate at 4+, per Taylors own say so.

You need This one

 

[kellyfair]

Ok, I scrolled up and saw that you mentioned your kit is a couple of years old. Instead of piecemeal-ing the things you need together, I would replace your kit with one that contains the elements we recommend. Using the color blocks to figure out your chlorine is extremely imprecise. You need to get a test kit that includes FAS-DPD, and since your other reagents are two years old or more, now is a good time to replace.

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