Glacier Pool Chiller Install help

TheoneAB

Active member
May 27, 2021
28
Houston, TX
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Hello, I was able to buy this cooler from someone selling it, but it's missing the sump pump with the plumbing. Can someone provide some pictures of how the sump pump is plumbed in these units, please? Also, when checking the install diagram, why is the output of the chiller connected to the incoming skimmer line instead of the return line? I won't have a dedicated return line for it. Can someone explain to me how that makes sense to plumb it like this?
 

Some threads listed in the search.

The flow out of the chiller has to go to the suction side or a dedicated return line as it does not have enough pump power to use the pool return (back pressure).
 
My Glacier Chiller was installed during construction of my pool. So, I have no experience doing a DIY. I would suggest posting photos of the chiller and the equipment pad. You could receive ideas with visuals.
 
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Hello, I was able to buy this cooler from someone selling it, but it's missing the sump pump with the plumbing. Can someone provide some pictures of how the sump pump is plumbed in these units, please? Also, when checking the install diagram, why is the output of the chiller connected to the incoming skimmer line instead of the return line? I won't have a dedicated return line for it. Can someone explain to me how that makes sense to plumb it like this?
Here’s a quick snapshot of the pump in my Glacier. Sorry - it’s currently running so the pic isn’t great.

1687994770776.jpeg
The gray pipe is the inlet and goes up to the wands. I’m happy to send more pics if you think it would be helpful. I wouldn’t have any idea how to install and plumb the pump, but I’ve had to reattach my pump to the outlet because the vibration caused it to come loose. It was just reattaching with PVC glue. The overall concept seems fairly easy - inlet to the wands and plumb the pump so that it pushes the water back out when the float rises.

I had a local pool service install my Glacier and as I went out to take pictures of my plumbing for you, I just noticed that it’s plumbed as you described - at least to my untrained eye. Here are some pictures:

The gray-handled valve is the one used to regulate the wand rotation speed and is the inlet. I never touch the blue-handled valve. There’s also an actuator up the line (in the 2nd picture )that I manually flip the switch to open when I’m first starting up the chiller to fill the basin, which confirms that this is the inlet line.
1687995699756.jpeg
1687996103732.jpeg
However, as you can see from the picture above, that line is the return line, as shown by the arrow just past the salt cell. Weird.

And the outlet line connects here - to the west skimmer just under the valve. Double weird. I’ve never noticed this until I read your post. I certainly can’t explain it.

1687996277778.jpeg
Edit:
I just now noticed the T connection in front of the salt cell, which comes off the heater. I guess the water splits at that point and half goes through the chiller and half through the salt cell? If that’s the case, I’ve never had to adjust my cell output when using the chiller. And it still doesn’t explain the outlet going to the skimmer.

I’d give Glacier a call. Good luck figuring it out!
 
Last edited:
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FYI - I just read this from @JoyfulNoise in another Glacier post. Sounds like the plumbing is correct, counterintuitive as it sounds.

Is the chiller plumbed correctly? The input to the chiller comes from the return side of the pump after the filter and the outlet of the chiller is connected to the suction side of the pump. At first glance, the plumbing seems counterintuitive but if you understand how the chiller works it makes sense. Many pool techs have no clue how the glacier units work and often don’t read the installation manual. It’s not uncommon for new glacier owners to post on here and the installation was done completely wrong.
 
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Here’s a quick snapshot of the pump in my Glacier. Sorry - it’s currently running so the pic isn’t great.

View attachment 508737
The gray pipe is the inlet and goes up to the wands. I’m happy to send more pics if you think it would be helpful. I wouldn’t have any idea how to install and plumb the pump, but I’ve had to reattach my pump to the outlet because the vibration caused it to come loose. It was just reattaching with PVC glue. The overall concept seems fairly easy - inlet to the wands and plumb the pump so that it pushes the water back out when the float rises.

I had a local pool service install my Glacier and as I went out to take pictures of my plumbing for you, I just noticed that it’s plumbed as you described - at least to my untrained eye. Here are some pictures:

The gray-handled valve is the one used to regulate the wand rotation speed and is the inlet. I never touch the blue-handled valve. There’s also an actuator up the line (in the 2nd picture )that I manually flip the switch to open when I’m first starting up the chiller to fill the basin, which confirms that this is the inlet line.
View attachment 508753
View attachment 508754
However, as you can see from the picture above, that line is the return line, as shown by the arrow just past the salt cell. Weird.

And the outlet line connects here - to the west skimmer just under the valve. Double weird. I’ve never noticed this until I read your post. I certainly can’t explain it.

View attachment 508755
Edit:
I just now noticed the T connection in front of the salt cell, which comes off the heater. I guess the water splits at that point and half goes through the chiller and half through the salt cell? If that’s the case, I’ve never had to adjust my cell output when using the chiller. And it still doesn’t explain the outlet going to the skimmer.

I’d give Glacier a call. Good luck figuring it out!
Thank you for posting the sump pump pics. It does make it clear now how its plumbed. It seems they made an upside down U to connect it. The union is there in case you need to remove the sump pump. Is the tee off to your heater only supplied by the output of the chiller? How does it even have enough flow to operate? That's Strange. Again, thanks for the pictures. Im waiting for my sump pump to arrive and I will try to plumb everything together. What speed do you run your pump at for the chiller to work correctly and what happens if the pump is ran at other speeds? Does the chiller overflow or just drain faster/slower?
 
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FYI - I just read this from @JoyfulNoise in another Glacier post. Sounds like the plumbing is correct, counterintuitive as it sounds.

Is the chiller plumbed correctly? The input to the chiller comes from the return side of the pump after the filter and the outlet of the chiller is connected to the suction side of the pump. At first glance, the plumbing seems counterintuitive but if you understand how the chiller works it makes sense. Many pool techs have no clue how the glacier units work and often don’t read the installation manual. It’s not uncommon for new glacier owners to post on here and the installation was done completely wrong.
I'm still confused why it needs a sump pump at all. I don't understand why you want the water to collect. Wouldn't it work better if the water could flow back naturally to the pool?
 
I'm still confused why it needs a sump pump at all. I don't understand why you want the water to collect. Wouldn't it work better if the water could flow back naturally to the pool?
I’m not a plumber or engineer, so I can only guess that for the cooling to work through evaporation, the flow has to be slowed down in order to be effective. In order to get it back into the pool, there needs to be enough water volume to get the proper flow, thus the collection basin and sump pump.

Sump pump failure is my greatest concern with the design. Because the unit needs to run at night to maximize cooling, I worry about the pump failing and draining my pool while I’m asleep. But I’ve had it for more than 5 years and run it every day/night during the summer and no failure so far!
 
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Is the tee off to your heater only supplied by the output of the chiller?
That tee is on the inlet line, not outlet, so the water is flowing from the heater to the chiller, not the reverse.

What speed do you run your pump at for the chiller to work correctly and what happens if the pump is ran at other speeds?
I’m still in the dinosaur age of a single speed pump. This is the only VSP reference I see in the operating instructions:

*If your pool has a variable speed pump, set valves to one speed and only cool with that setting!
 
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Here’s a quick snapshot of the pump in my Glacier. Sorry - it’s currently running so the pic isn’t great.

View attachment 508737
The gray pipe is the inlet and goes up to the wands. I’m happy to send more pics if you think it would be helpful. I wouldn’t have any idea how to install and plumb the pump, but I’ve had to reattach my pump to the outlet because the vibration caused it to come loose. It was just reattaching with PVC glue. The overall concept seems fairly easy - inlet to the wands and plumb the pump so that it pushes the water back out when the float rises.

I had a local pool service install my Glacier and as I went out to take pictures of my plumbing for you, I just noticed that it’s plumbed as you described - at least to my untrained eye. Here are some pictures:

The gray-handled valve is the one used to regulate the wand rotation speed and is the inlet. I never touch the blue-handled valve. There’s also an actuator up the line (in the 2nd picture )that I manually flip the switch to open when I’m first starting up the chiller to fill the basin, which confirms that this is the inlet line.
View attachment 508753
View attachment 508754
However, as you can see from the picture above, that line is the return line, as shown by the arrow just past the salt cell. Weird.

And the outlet line connects here - to the west skimmer just under the valve. Double weird. I’ve never noticed this until I read your post. I certainly can’t explain it.

View attachment 508755
Edit:
I just now noticed the T connection in front of the salt cell, which comes off the heater. I guess the water splits at that point and half goes through the chiller and half through the salt cell? If that’s the case, I’ve never had to adjust my cell output when using the chiller. And it still doesn’t explain the outlet going to the skimmer.

I’d give Glacier a call. Good luck figuring it out!
Does your skimmer line pull a lot of air? I see no check valve before your skimmer return line.
 
So is your pipe filled with water from the skimmer all the way back to the chiller valve?
Good question but one I can’t answer definitively. Since I don’t have air coming out of the returns and no bubbles in my pump basket, I’m assuming the pipe remains full.
 
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My Glacier isn't plumbed according to the manual, but it does seem to work. I am running my VSP at 2000 RPMs with the Glacier on. I still adjust the valve going into the wands, but this speed seems to be best for getting water back to the pool. Only negative I see is that the wands accelerate when the sump pump turns on.

I have worried about automating the schedule and the pool getting drained. Mainly around pump speed being higher and the wands spinning too fast. Right now, I have it start at roughly 6am. If it does drain, it won't be much before I wake up.
 
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Good question but one I can’t answer definitively. Since I don’t have air coming out of the returns and no bubbles in my pump basket, I’m assuming the pipe remains full.
How fast does your sump pump drain the basin of the chiller? I recently installed a pump and it seems it drains rather slowly. I feel like it never really turns off.
 
How fast does your sump pump drain the basin of the chiller? I recently installed a pump and it seems it drains rather slowly. I feel like it never really turns off.
I’ve never timed it. Maybe 15 or 20 seconds? When I first start it up each season, I just watch until the float starts dropping so I’m sure that it’s actually working. ;)
 
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