New owner, salt. Water is crystal clear! But K-2006-SALT kit indicates ZERO CYA

[summertimesadness]

SWG Run Time Calculator

What is the SWG Run Time Calculator? A tool that is designed to answer the common question of "how long should I run my pump/SWG". It calculates the run time of your SWG and Pump based on your pool size, the output of your SWG and your daily FC PPM loss. It is designed as a starting point...

www.troublefreepool.com

Might be easier to use "Effects of Adding" in Poolmath.

If it's equivalent (or, as you mentioned, easier) to do the app, I'll stick with that. Thanks

 

[truckprank]

Where did you find the spreadsheet ?

Your pool company wasn't expecting you to be on TFP. That's for sure

Your SWG is rated for 15,000 gallons and you left it on 100% for a 7,000 gallon pool. Your FC will most certainly be high. Your theory pans out.

Here's what I'd do:

1. Set your output to 0% until your FC reaches your high end of the ideal range
2. Use the calculator below to find your desired output % and set it
3. Wait 24 hours
4. Test again

If your FC stays consistent, then fantastic. If not, adjust the output % and rinse and repeat.

SWG Run Time Calculator

What is the SWG Run Time Calculator? A tool that is designed to answer the common question of "how long should I run my pump/SWG". It calculates the run time of your SWG and Pump based on your pool size, the output of your SWG and your daily FC PPM loss. It is designed as a starting point...

www.troublefreepool.com

@jamesey posted the spreadsheet link a while back after his or her amazing advice which I followed exactly and has been the basis for my FC level testing ever since (thank you jamesey!!). Spreadsheet is here: SWG Run Time Calculator

 

[truckprank]

Added another 14 oz of muriatic acid today (20 baume), after testing and again getting an 8.0 reading, with 2 drops of R-0005 Acid Demand from my Taylor kit to bring down to 7.5 or so (estimated). That makes 34 oz total since I started a week ago, which is way more than PoolMath and the Taylor booklet has said cumulatively, but I guess I need to trust my testing. Digital pH meter should be here tomorrow from tftestkits so hopefully that can corroborate my findings and that I haven't overdone it on the acid additions!

 

[PoolStored]

Added another 14 oz of muriatic acid today (20 baume), after testing and again getting an 8.0 reading, with 2 drops of R-0005 Acid Demand from my Taylor kit to bring down to 7.5 or so (estimated). That makes 34 oz total since I started a week ago, which is way more than PoolMath and the Taylor booklet has said cumulatively, but I guess I need to trust my testing. Digital pH meter should be here tomorrow from tftestkits so hopefully that can corroborate my findings and that I haven't overdone it on the acid additions!

Trust your test kit.

 

[truckprank]

Got the digital pH meter today. I have to say, it's probably more trouble than it's worth with having to try and calibrate (to what? I tried with distilled water which should be right at 7.0 but read anywhere from 6.0 to 8.0 depending on how gently I swirled the Dang thing, and then 7.2 buffer solution from tftestkits which I calibrated to, then the distilled water read differently afterwards UGH).

I ultimately just stuck with the standard Taylor test kit reading for my pH reading today which was 7.5. Even though there's not an exact 7.5 in that graduated cylinder with the colors but it was definitely in between 7.4 and 7.6, at least with my eyes against a bright cloudy sky. I dug in more and tested against distilled water and tap water and am confident the Taylor kit method is the way to go. I'm definitely overthinking it! But I know I'm good on pH for now so am happy.

Therefore, I started on the last remaining addition which is Calcium Chloride, to increase my CH up from current 70 (too low) to my target of around 250. I've decided to do this even though I have a simple fiberglass pool and CH probably doesn't matter too much but even so. Strangely, the pool smelled different in a good way after adding the CaCl granules and brushing vigorously.

I hope y'all don't mind me keeping this thread alive. I'm kind of using it as a journal for my developments, with the added benefits of your expert commentary and hopefully to help out another newbie in the future! Thanks again.

 

[PoolStored]

I ultimately just stuck with the standard Taylor test kit reading for my pH reading today which was 7.5. Even though there's not an exact 7.5 in that graduated cylinder with the colors but it was definitely in between 7.4 and 7.6, at least with my eyes against a bright cloudy sky. I dug in more and tested against distilled water and tap water and am confident the Taylor kit method is the way to go. I'm definitely overthinking it! But I know I'm good on pH for now so am happy.

Don't overthink it. The drop kit is great. Trust it.

Therefore, I started on the last remaining addition which is Calcium Chloride, to increase my CH up from current 70 (too low) to my target of around 250. I've decided to do this even though I have a simple fiberglass pool and CH probably doesn't matter too much but even so. Strangely, the pool smelled different in a good way after adding the CaCl granules and brushing vigorously.

CH in a fiberglass pool without a tile grout line or heater really doesn't matter. Some members like the feel with some CH in the water...good to go!!!

I hope y'all don't mind me keeping this thread alive. I'm kind of using it as a journal for my developments, with the added benefits of your expert commentary and hopefully to help out another newbie in the future! Thanks again.

All good. Did you swim today...or just mess with testing an adding?

 

[Mdragger88]

Just catching up on this thread- everyone has got you covered
just wanted to clarify that the only thing added via the sock method is granular cya.
Do not add dry acid that way.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[truckprank]

Don't overthink it. The drop kit is great. Trust it.

Yes sir. Agreed and lesson learned here.

CH in a fiberglass pool without a tile grout line or heater really doesn't matter. Some members like the feel with some CH in the water...good to go!!!

See below lol!

All good. Did you swim today...or just mess with testing an adding?

Thanks man! I had my bathing suit on and was planning to swim depending on if my wife was going to do the same. It did not turn out, unfortunately, lol. It was still a bit too cold. We did enjoy laying out in the sun for an hour or so.

I should have bought that Dang heater after all.. I still might - we left room for it next to the pump equipment! It sucks when it's so warm out and beautiful sunny weather but the water is just a little too cold to be comfortable and the sun goes behind the house.. it's now 2 June, in South Carolina, and honestly I should not be thinking about if the pool is warm enough or not to jump in. Hopefully my thinking changes when summer hits hard here soon. But it sure would have been nice earlier today!

 

[PoolStored]

Incredibly odd the amount of time we spend on pool chemistry and management vs. enjoyment. I hope you have a HOT summer and enjoy the pool!!!

 

[truckprank]

Incredibly odd the amount of time we spend on pool chemistry and management vs. enjoyment. I hope you have a HOT summer and enjoy the pool!!!

Agreed, thank you! I think you and I wouldn't spend nearly as much time and effort on the management aspects if we didn't actually enjoy that. However I do need to keep in mind to not get too caught up and just enjoy the results!

Just catching up on this thread- everyone has got you covered
just wanted to clarify that the only thing added via the sock method is granular cya.
Do not add dry acid that way.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you @Mdragger88! The fine folks here headed me off much earlier about dry acid altogether, due to incompatibility with my having a salt pool / salt cell generator. I went with liquid muriatic acid as recommended, and subsequently confirmed, by me reading my SWG manual (Pentair iChlor 15)

CYA granules were the only item I did via sock method.

Good to know to NOT use the sock method for Dry Acid!!

Thank you and everyone else for that matter, for looking out!