Resurrecting a 2011 Aquarite Goldline on a shoestring budget 🤑

[Mdragger88]

Ok, there’s a 5 yr old rj 45+ for sale with a cut cell cord. It’s $100. The cell may or may not be functional. Although they said it worked fine when they “upgraded” their whole system & it was just about time for a new cell . The installer of the new system cut the cord close to the end with the plug. There also doesn’t seem to be a flow switch ($80) or unions included. So it’s basically just the controller.

As I understand it the cell can be replaced with a different size if I wish, like a 60k one?
My thoughts are this-
*obviously this would save me some $$ over buying a complete new system
$800-$900 vs $1300-$1400
* I would get a more robust system for less $ than I would pay for a generic (pureline/calimar/ul40)
* if I could repair the old cell cord its a bonus
What does the brain trust think? Bad idea?

 

[Newdude]

I think it's worth the gamble for the controller alone. You may even get some life left from the cell.

Offer $75 because they can't prove anything works.

 

[Mdragger88]

I think it's worth the gamble for the controller alone. You may even get some life left from the cell.

Offer $75 because they can't prove anything works.

Its a bidding situation, that’s the starting bid.
but it’s the second time it’s been listed - didn’t sell the first time

 

[Newdude]

Its a bidding situation, that’s the starting bid.

I'd wait until the end then. If anyone sees that there is a bid, they may bid also. People are weird like that.


Or. It gets some bids and the price goes up and you start new.

 

[Mdragger88]

Yeah, I always set an alarm reminder for bidding. I got all my intex units on a bid site for a steal but they were new.

 

[markayash]

I bought a used Polaris 360 on Mercadi and saved a bunch of money. It looks brand new but a gamble

 

[Mdragger88]

Update!
The bid went a bit high for the circupool unit so I passed on it but in a twist of fate my BiL is removing his old Aquarite system possibly today when he replaces his pump & said I can have it.
The cell is likely toast (its a simple cell) but he really doesn’t know what is wrong with it, maybe a bad flow switch or something. He never investigated & just decided salt wasn’t for him so it’s just been sitting there unused.
My plan is to hook it all up & do the diagnostics before ordering anything.
A t15 is not ideal for my pool but if i can get by with just replacement cell cost I am definitely willing to try. Even if it needs a board or something I would still come out pretty cheap vs a new system.
I tend to run my pump around 12 hours a day in the peak of summer anyway for the fountain so that will probably be fine.
The pureline t15 replacement Says it makes 2.1 #/day vs the others @ 1.47# so I will probably go with that.
When I get into the diagnostics I’ll likely be ringing the brain trust
@JamesW am I nuts?

 

[Mdragger88]

Okay- I got my grubby little hands on it!
Photo dump


I have no clue how old the cell is… or the controller for that matter.
he told me tonight that it actually does/did work but it just didn’t keep up. The one board on the bottom left looks like it has some corrosion. All the fuses & other boards looked good- once i cleared out the wasp nest & spider webs.
The inside of the cell is clean. But there are no unions at all. I specifically asked if he would try to save the unions - i guess it didn’t work out. He was fighting storms while trying to get his new pump in.
The wire to the flow switched looks a little burnt and like it has oozed at some point?
I think I should rename this thread to “Am I crazy?”
Before I can test anything I have to at least order unions. My thoughts are to get those & the flow switch then test the cell out. I can’t really check the controller without a cell & flow switch right?

 

[Newdude]

I can’t really check the controller without a cell & flow switch right?

You can see it powers up.

 

[PoolStored]

am I nuts?

Nope, I think the controller will work...may need to replace the cell, but you are big $$ ahead, and very little down side.

 

[Mdragger88]

You can see it powers up.

I plan to bench test it then - basically just to see what software revision it has since aftermarket cells like the pureline require rev. 1.5 or higher - the simple cell doesn’t have that requirement.
I am going to put a cord & plug on it & move the jumpers to 110v anyway so might as well do that first then plug it in.

 

[Mdragger88]

Update
Upon investigation via the serial number it appears this is a 2011 unit. 2011 is when they changed how they do the serial numbers so I am not certain of the month/day. The cell is obviously going to be newer than that being that it’s aftermarket.
It’s newer than I first suspected.
It has a 20amp blade fuse instead of a glass fuse in oldies & a newer version thermistor (which appears to be in good condition)
I was able to test the flow switch & it works (surprisingly) - it took 3 hands, the dog assisted
I have ordered a set of tailpieces & unions from Amazon for $16 & await their arrival!
I was able to chip off the rest of the fitting he cut off from the flow switch plumbing & clean up the boogered pipe enough to get a coupling on it so I don’t have to buy a new tee.

I’m off to the hardware store now for a cord cap & w/p fitting for the box so we can power this baby up & see what’s shaking.
I initially intended to put the cell & flow switch right after the filter & before the valve that feeds my 2 returns but after looking at them in real life I just feel it would be very heavy there & stick out. Also there may be too much turbulence & it’s very sunny there. I intend to leave the hoses since they allow me to hide them under the deck some & don’t impede my access to my hidey hole I have going on under there.
I have since decided to just cut into one of my pvc runs near the returns, likely the one going to the top return so I can place the cell more under the deck to protect it from the elements. I do sometimes restrict the flow there with a fountain so if that’s a problem I will just use the other line for the cell/switch.
The swg control box will be mounted under the deck similar to the current one & it will be plugged into that black timer. Here’s my current mess. The bottom return is the bain of my existence & I haven’t figured out a good looking solution for its plumbing that also jives with winterization & allows me to remove everything like I need to. It’s a work in progress ya’ll!

 

[Mdragger88]

Update
The controller powers up!
Here’s what I got:

No flow light was obviously on- since I already have the flow switch out i plugged it in & closed it - that made the light blink
The cell was not plugged in - the unit was switched to off. I assume that’s as far as I can get with out being hooked up completely.
Great news is rev. 1.58 and my unions just got here so should I hook this thing up? Or is there anything else I should check first?

 

[Newdude]

should I hook this thing up?

The way I see it, if you hook it up and the cell is a dud, it's a 3 min swap when the new one (eventually) comes.

 

[Mdragger88]

The way I see it, if you hook it up and the cell is a dud, it's a 3 min swap when the new one (eventually) comes.

Also it just dropped in price by $50
See, procrastination can be helpful

 

[PoolStored]

See, procrastination can be helpful

I procrastinated buying a new $4000 laptop...for 6 months. Finally was forced to buy it. It was $1500. Procrastination can be helpful.

 

[Newdude]

See, procrastination can be helpful

I mean. They've gone up several hundred while you limped along with the other ones, but YEAH !!!! $50 off.

 

[Mdragger88]

Back to the placement before I start cutting - top or bottom return?
Top often has a fountain which restricts flow..

I mean. They've gone up several hundred while you limped along with the other ones, but YEAH !!!! $50 off.

boo

 

[Newdude]

Top often has a fountain which restricts flow.

Neither should matter with a SS pump. I'd go with the bottom in case you go VS down the road and the restriction does matter at low RPM.

 

[Newdude]

Also, I just checked and MS electric has a $250 VS pump rebate. That's half the cost of the 3 HP Calimar.