I posted a couple of threads looking for help with pool lights going out and then about possible replacements. Still looking for a few answers on the replacement options but here is another question. Since I am going to replace all my lights, should I take the opportunity to convert to 12v instead of the 120v I have now? Obviously would have to install the proper transformer, but outside of that, what are your thoughts on 12v vs 120v? The pool was built 7 years ago with 120v Jandy lights. Everything I'm reading indicates most pools are built now with 12v?
Should I Convert Pool Lights to 12v?
- Thread starter SuperDupe
- Start date
IMHO anything that gets 120V further from the water is a good thing, so I would say "go for it".
The question will come down to how hard it is to redo the wiring, and finding a place for the transformer.
The transformer will be required to be fed by a GFCI (often daisy-chained off the GFCI convenience outlet at the equipment pad)
Do all the light conduits come back to your equipment pad, or is there a junction box hiding in the garden somewhere?
The question will come down to how hard it is to redo the wiring, and finding a place for the transformer.
The transformer will be required to be fed by a GFCI (often daisy-chained off the GFCI convenience outlet at the equipment pad)
Do all the light conduits come back to your equipment pad, or is there a junction box hiding in the garden somewhere?
The junction box is near the equipment pad. I could probably squeeze a transformer into the Jandy equipment box where the controller relays are. Its probably doable... I'm just getting very close to ordering the new lights and I thought I should ask this question... I agree about the voltage and keeping it away from the pool. I didn't know if there were advantages to 120 vs 12, like say better lights, more power, etc. My equipment is a little farther from the pool than normal. My pool isn't that old and so its kinda weird it was built that way if 12v is the latest and greatest. Anything have to do with distance? It's not like a mile or anything, but are there issues with send 12v more than 50 feet? I'd say my equipment is 50-75 feet from the pool.
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I guess it says equivelent to.... So the question is how much do I need with basically three of these... Two in the pool and one in the spa (spa version of course.)
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The future of pool lighting is whiter and brighter.
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These replacement pool lights are compatible with most standard, medium base housings.
PureWhite pool lights are designed to significantly reduce energy consumption and maintenance costs.
Each light uses only 45 watts of power.
And, a proprietary cooling system maximizes the rated lamp life of up to 50,000 hours.
PureWhite lights are ideal for commercial and residential pool applications where white light is required or preferred.
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Provides ultra-bright white LED illumination equivalent to a 300W incandescent
Uses 90% less electricity than standard pool lights to immediately reduce energy costs
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Rated for up to 50,000 hours of use to reduce maintenance costs
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Proprietary optical diffuser maximizes light output coverage area
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Easily replaces existing
Edison base bulbs
ETL approved lamp offers safety tested performance
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If you are installing multiple LED lights the colors will automatically synchronize to assure a perfect look.
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Features:
Color LED Pool Light and Fixture
100 Foot Cord
12 Volt
Uses only 33 watts of power
Choose from 5 fixed colors and 7 light shows
Auto synchronization when installing multiple lights
Can be operated using Pentair and Jandy automation systems
Can be installed in most pool light housings
Tempered glass zero pixilation lens
Nickel-plated brass strain relief with sealing gland
Elegant, heavy gauge, marine grade polished steel faceplate
High output LED's optimize color saturation and light intensity
Seamless color transitions
Easy lighting selection
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Yeah I just saw the specs... it is 500 equivalent... actually says 58 watt for the ones i'm looking at... they are the brighter rgbw version... So, I'm guessing a 300 watt transformer will work...
If you want separate control, then you need separate transformers.
For example, if you want to control the pool and spa lights separately, you need one 300 watt and one 100 watt transformer.
The transformers should be rated for the total power of all lights on the transformer.
I would design for a maximum of 80% load.
A 300 watt transformer can handle 240 watts total or (7) 33 watt lights.
Check light transformer installation instructions for all installation instructions.
For example, if you want to control the pool and spa lights separately, you need one 300 watt and one 100 watt transformer.
The transformers should be rated for the total power of all lights on the transformer.
I would design for a maximum of 80% load.
A 300 watt transformer can handle 240 watts total or (7) 33 watt lights.
Check light transformer installation instructions for all installation instructions.
I was just looking at a wiring diagram...
I currently have all three of my Jandy lights on separate relays. So I would need a transformer for each light as the wring I'm looking at, the transformer comes after the relay... Currently, I have GFCI in that mix for the 120v lights.... The diagram I'm looking at doesn't have a GFCI in the 12v model... Should I still put it in before the transformer or leave it out?A single 15 amp GFCI breaker can feed all relays, then to the transformers and then to the lights.
Note that a GFCI does not give any protection past the transformer because the transformer isolates the lights from the high voltage wiring.
So the GFCI is not really necessary then? I have everything on a breaker. Changing to the 12v lights, from the 120v breaker I would go out to the relays and transformers. I had the GFCI after the breaker and before the lights in case of water intrusion into the niche. The wiring diagram I have for my original Jandy lights shows the transformer taking the place of the GFCI for 12v lights... I was assuming since its a 120v GFCI, it wouldn't do any good after the transformer. I was thinking about leaving it in between the breaker and before the transformers, but would that be overkill and really not necessary?
I would still use the GFCI.
It can still pick up a ground fault up to the transformer.
It can still pick up a ground fault up to the transformer.
Morning! I was originally going to purchase three different transformers for controlling the three lights seperately. However, I was thinking... Why can't I purchase a larger transfer, 300 watt, strep down the power through it and then individually control each light via the relays in my pool control box? They are the standard Jandy relays... Originally they controlled my 120v lights, but shouldn't they switch the 12v also? Any thoughts on this? If so, it would be a lot easier to just purchase one transformer box and use existing wire to the junction box. Its all heavy gauge...