First Taylor Test - Very High Chlorine?

bradde

Active member
Jun 19, 2022
39
Gilbert Arizona
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
I just got the Taylor K-2006 test kit and figured that I would start with the FAC test. I thought that my chlorine level would be a bit high, but wasn't ready for this. After adding 2 scoops of the powder to my water sample (10mL), it turned pink. Then it took 42 drops of R-0871 to get the water back to clear. I proceeded to the free chlorine test and only had to add 2 drops of R-0871 to clear the water. So, that means that my free chlorine is 21ppm and my combined chlorine is at 1ppm, right?

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions as to what I should do next?
 
I just got the Taylor K-2006 test kit and figured that I would start with the FAC test. I thought that my chlorine level would be a bit high, but wasn't ready for this. After adding 2 scoops of the powder to my water sample (10mL), it turned pink. Then it took 42 drops of R-0871 to get the water back to clear. I proceeded to the free chlorine test and only had to add 2 drops of R-0871 to clear the water. So, that means that my free chlorine is 21ppm and my combined chlorine is at 1ppm, right?

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions as to what I should do next?
As above, depending on what your CYA level is, the free chlorine might not be very high or might be too high. So the rest of the tests and post up the results and you’ll get lots of feedback on whats what.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Post a full setof current test results - or add them to PoolMath as you are already sharing your logs there.

Use the FC/CYA Levels to determine min and max FC based on your CYA.
Chances are your FC of 21 (42/2) isn't all that high.

If you haven't already, have a read thru Pool Care Basics.
 
Thank you for your responses! I just ran these tests and here are the results:
pH - 8.0
TA - 100ppm
CYA - 90ppm
At Leslie's advice I shocked the pool twice within a month. I had green algae first and then yellow algae the second time. That, and the fact that I cleaned the salt cell thoroughly might explain the high Chlorine level? I have owned the house for 4 months. I don't think that the previous owner ever cleaned the salt cell. It was very dirty and took a couple of cleanings to get rid of all of the calcium build-up.
 
Thank you for your responses! I just ran these tests and here are the results:
pH - 8.0
TA - 100ppm
CYA - 90ppm
At Leslie's advice I shocked the pool twice within a month. I had green algae first and then yellow algae the second time. That, and the fact that I cleaned the salt cell thoroughly might explain the high Chlorine level? I have owned the house for 4 months. I don't think that the previous owner ever cleaned the salt cell. It was very dirty and took a couple of cleanings to get rid of all of the calcium build-up.
Ah. Might should also do the calcium test as that’s likely why the scale buildup. If your CYA is 90, then your chlorine isn’t all that bad. Give a read through the TFP pool school articles to get a good understanding on what those numbers mean. You’ll be an expert in no time.

Here’s a couple minor warnings though:
1. Do your best to stay away from the pool store. They have a poor reputation of giving reliable results. You have a test kit that will give you much more reliable results than they can provide so trust that.

2. Be careful on cleaning the salt cell. Using acid (while sometimes necessary) will reduce its life by removing the plates coatings so only do it if absolutely necessary. If your water is balanced consistently, you’ll likely never need to clean it again.
 
I'm trying to wean myself from Leslie's. Just figured it was the easiest approach to take while we were getting settled in our new house.

I added 4 bags of their Power Powder Plus Shock the first time and 6 bags the second time that I shocked.

Just did the calcium hardness test and it showed that there was no calcium hardness present.
 
i am not from usa but i believe Arizona has very hard water
so i suspect a testing error
especially as the shock you use is cal hypo
Yep, I’d echo that. It would be very abnormal to have no calcium in the water, and wouldn’t be good. Your salt water chlorinator wouldn’t be able to scale up either I suppose. There’s some videos on performing the test on the site, perhaps that might help you see if something happened.

Couldn’t find a video but got this link with extra detailed instructions. Probably just a simple mistake. Try it once more

 

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Just had a look into your PoolMath, and your your CSI is listed as 0, which is not possible with CH 0 (which I also don't believe to be true).

With CH 0, CSI would mathematically be negative infinity (which would be not good at all for a plaster pool), but PoolMath is showing that as zero. I just reproduced that in my PoolMath, seems to be a bug, where PoolMath doesn't handle the error caused by log(0) properly, that @Leebo might want to look into.

Something must have gone wrong in your CH-Test.
 
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I think that we do have very hard water here in Arizona. We do have a water softener if that matters.

I ran the CH test that Bperry recommended and I got a CH of 375. Looks like that is in range, but I'm having trouble adding it to PoolMath for some reason.
 
I think that we do have very hard water here in Arizona. We do have a water softener if that matters.

I ran the CH test that Bperry recommended and I got a CH of 375. Looks like that is in range, but I'm having trouble adding it to PoolMath for some reason.
375 is much more believable. Is the water softener is plumbed to also fill the pool (the normal CH level would make sense if it was)?
 
I think that we do have very hard water here in Arizona. We do have a water softener if that matters.

I ran the CH test that Bperry recommended and I got a CH of 375. Looks like that is in range, but I'm having trouble adding it to PoolMath for some reason.

In the free version of PoolMath you can add only one log entry, so you have to keep overwriting this.

Better to just get the subscription - looks like you have already done this.

Your CSI now looks quite high because of the pH which is potentially showing false high because of FC above 10. But with TA at 100, pH likely is high. If you have distilled water (this is important), you can make a 50:50 diluted sample and test this. The distilled water will not change the pH, but halve the FC to 10.5, which should just be low enough for a pH measurement if you do it fast - the pH reading might still drift slowly up.

But more important to deal with the algae you were mentioning, it is unlikely that two one-time shocks got rid of them. FC needs to be at "shock" level for an extended period to really finish them off. The process is called SLAM Process, for "Shock Level And Maintain". The "Maintain" is important.

With CYA 90, your SLAM FC is 34, which is a challenge to maintain, but might be possible in winter. Usually, we recommend to reduce CYA first to make the SLAM easier.

But first you should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, so we know if that algae really still is there.

CH 375 is good. CSI will be in range with a little pH/TA adjustment. But let's deal with the algae first. And potentially the CYA.
 
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I'm not sure if the water softener is plumed out to the pool.

I did subscribe and update PoolMath.

PoolMath is suggesting that I add muriatic acid and SLAM. I am reluctant to SLAM as I have already done that twice within a few weeks, and the pool has looked great for the past week or so.
I will do the overnight Chlorine Lost Test and post the results.

Thank you!
 
I'm not sure if the water softener is plumed out to the pool.

I did subscribe and update PoolMath.

PoolMath is suggesting that I add muriatic acid and SLAM. I am reluctant to SLAM as I have already done that twice within a few weeks, and the pool has looked great for the past week or so.
I will do the overnight Chlorine Lost Test and post the results.

Thank you!
Poolmath doesn’t have the capability to suggest a SLAM process so there may just be some confusion over a setting.
 
Do the OCLT, then we'll know if a SLAM is needed. I am not so sure if two one-time chlorine shock doses were enough to kill off all algae. The M in SLAM is very important.
 
Test the autofill water ...
pH
TA
CH

There is really no way to wean yourself off of Leslies. Just rip the bandaid off and stay out of all pool stores.
You will find you have a great group of people here willing to guide you.

CH will tell you if the autofill is using softwater or hard water.

Was the house pre-plumbed for a water softener loop or was it an after thought?
Is the autofill plumbed to the rear hose bib? Show us some pics of the autofill plumbing.

There is really no way to fill the total volume of the pool with a house water softener. The softener will run out of soft water in less than 2000 gallons (or less based on the softener size) and need a recharge.
CH of your unsoftened water is about 200-250 ppm (or higher) in Gilbert.

The test for CH with the result of 0 ppm is invalid.
Don't add anymore calcium to the pool to increase the CH. If the autofill isn't plumbed to the softener, your CH will increase at least 250 ppm per year just do to evaporation.

Review the extended test kit directions and then run another complete set of tests. Take your time, be precise and methodical. Hold the reagent bottles vertical and let the drops fully form on bottle tip (don't squeeze hard and/or force the drops off) - about 1 second between drops.

Fill out your signature with your pool, pool equipment (manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in better helping you.
 
I tested the pH and TA of the autofill water. I can't run a CH test because my R-0012 bottle is empty. Seems that most of it leaked out in shipment of my new test kit.

Autofill Water
pH - 8.0
TA - 90

New set of Pool Water Tests
pH - 8.0
TA - 90ppm
CYA - 90
CH - 300

Overnight FC Tests
Evening - 25
Next Morning - 23.5
 

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