Gas build up in SWG when running?

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rootusrootus

Gold Supporter
Aug 27, 2021
56
Oregon
Pool Size
10500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-30 Plus
My setup: I have a nearly brand new Circupool RJ30+. My pump is a two speed Hayward Powerflo Matrix "1.5hp", 23 inch sand filter. Pool is 21 foot AGP, 10K gallons. Water is TFP-clear with all the numbers in a good place. Salt is a little higher than I intended, 4000ppm, but still within spec.

I run the pump 24/7 right now on low speed, chlorine generator at 10%. There is maybe a half inch of air that accumulates in the filter basket over time, but it stays there. When the generator isn't running, it has a few bubbles, just little ones here and there on the top surface. I get no bubbles from the return. The SWG is mounted like I think it's intended to be -- horizontal, with the high side on the top. As soon as it starts generating chlorine, it quickly builds up gas in the raised part of the tube. Sometimes it gets down far enough to start exposing the top of the electrodes. When that happens the controller starts intermittently ******** about salt level, though not enough to turn off. After it stops generating, within a minute the water level in the SWG goes back up to the top again.

The flow out the return seems okay. The sand filter pressure has gone up 2 psi to 15.5, but that doesn't seem high enough to be a problem yet?

Any idea what's going wrong here? I guess the hydrogen gas being generated is building up faster than the flow can drag it down and push it out the return pipe. Should I turn the SWG so that the 'bulge' isn't facing up, so the gas can't get caught up there?

The fan on the controller was buzzing this morning for a minute after I turned the pump on this morning (just installed a new heater yesterday :)) and I think I may ask Circupool for advice on fixing that before the fan fails altogether, especially since the SWG is only a few weeks old.

Thanks for your advice!
 
Turn your cell so the bulge is down.

What you see is a common problem with Hayward style cells with a bulge and pumps running at low flow.
 
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Donldson said:
Could you post a picture of your setup?
Click to expand...
Sure! I'm not even embarrassed about this picture, either, I'm finally feeling like I'm getting close to having things how I want them. All that's left, really, is tidying up the cords going to the SWG and flow sensor. And fixing one persistent leak that drips once every 60 seconds. Grrr.
 

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With the pump off, loosen the unions of the salt cell slightly. Grasp the cell with both hands and you can turn it 180º so that the topside if flat. That’ll keep the cell happy and clear of any residual gas - easy. Just don’t forget to tighten the cell unions after you’re done.
 
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reggiehammond said:
With the pump off, loosen the unions of the salt cell slightly. Grasp the cell with both hands and you can turn it 180º so that the topside if flat. That’ll keep the cell happy and clear of any residual gas - easy. Just don’t forget to tighten the cell unions after you’re done.
Click to expand...
This.

Check the install manual, it should say the bulge is supposed to be down.
 
JamesW said:
Your heater bypass line is open.

Make sure that you don't run the heater with the bypass open.

View attachment 453892
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Good eye ;-). Yes, I screwed up the install on those 3-way Jandy valves when I first did the plumbing, and left myself no way to close the bypass. Thought I was so smart until I went to turn on the heater today. Now I have a two-way Jandy valve on the way that should be here tomorrow so I can splice it into the bypass and close it.
 
Bperry said:
This.

Check the install manual, it should say the bulge is supposed to be down.
Click to expand...
I was about to say "No, everywhere in the manual it clearly shows it bulge up." and then I went and re-read the manual very carefully. There is indeed a small paragraph that says (paraphrasing) "for variable or low speed pumps, invert the cell".

So. I shall invert the cell and problem solved. Thanks!

I may find that it hits the ground, of course, which is a separate problem. I had run it low to go under the input line for the pump. Might have to rejigger things.
 
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rootusrootus said:
I was about to say "No, everywhere in the manual it clearly shows it bulge up." and then I went and re-read the manual very carefully. There is indeed a small paragraph that says (paraphrasing) "for variable or low speed pumps, invert the cell".

So. I shall invert the cell and problem solved. Thanks!

I may find that it hits the ground, of course, which is a separate problem. I had run it low to go under the input line for the pump. Might have to rejigger things.
Click to expand...
Wouldn’t worry much about angle if it helps clear the bubble. It doesn’t have to be perfectly inverted to encourage the gas to leave via flow.
 
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Do NOT cut off the stops on the handles.

Look at the cover under the handle that is held on by the 8 screws. Find the word INLET.
Remove the 8 screws, carefully remove the cover, reinstall the cover with the word INLET toward the filter on the top valve and toward the SWG on the bottom valve, replace the 8 screws and the handle.
This will allow the heater bypass to work correctly. No need to replace the valves.
 
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On the output to the heater, it would be better to use a check valve so that you never lock pressure in the heater.

If the heater runs with both lines blocked, it can build up enough pressure to explode.

With a check valve, pressure can still get out.

Even if the lines to the heater are closed, there can be enough pressure to close the pressure switch and cause the heater to run with no flow.

So, you need to be really careful not to leave the heater on when the lines to the heater are closed.

Adding a flow switch can be a good safety precaution.

1663546295697.png

 
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JamesW said:
On the output to the heater, it would be better to use a check valve so that you never lock pressure in the heater.

If the heater runs with both lines blocked, it can build up enough pressure to explode.

With a check valve, pressure can still get out.

Even if the lines to the heater are closed, there can be enough pressure to close the pressure switch and cause the heater to run with no flow.

So, you need to be really careful not to leave the heater on when the lines to the heater are closed.

Adding a flow switch can be a good safety precaution.

View attachment 453933

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That I could do with what I have on hand. I do have a couple Jandy check valves I picked up that I haven't plumbed in yet. And I can easily find a use for the two-way valve coming tomorrow -- when I installed the pool I used a pair of Fibropool valves that looked like Jandy knockoffs for half the price. The one on the return line is prone to leaking when shut off. Sigh. No more saving money on pool valves ;).
 
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