Need help reading test

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

I know my ph is high but don't know what to enter into the pool math app as far a number and I van never read the yellow as they all look the same to my old eyes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mknauss]

8.2.

Add enough acid to lower to 7.6. Circulate for 30 minutes and test again. Repeat until the pH is in the 7's.

Be sure your FC is below 10 ppm as that can skew the pH test results.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

I know my ph is high but don't know what to enter into the pool math app as far a number and I van never read the yellow as they all look the same to my old eyes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a better picture

8.2.

Add enough acid to lower to 7.6. Circulate for 30 minutes and test again. Repeat until the pH is in the 7's.

Be sure your FC is below 10 ppm as that can skew the pH test results.

Ok thanks. It appeared extra red so figured it was higher than 8.2 I will add the acid and update.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

8.2.

Add enough acid to lower to 7.6. Circulate for 30 minutes and test again. Repeat until the pH is in the 7's.

Be sure your FC is below 10 ppm as that can skew the pH test results.

Okay so I added 19oz of the acid like the app suggested and here are my results. I will add another 19 Oz since it's still 8.2

 

[mknauss]

Be sure you have an accurate reading for TA in your Poolmath log. The data you show for TA right now does not look like it is from a proper test kit.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

Okay so I added 19oz of the acid like the app suggested and here are my results. I will add another 19 Oz since it's still 8.2

Also FC is at 2.5

 

[mknauss]

Also FC is at 2.5

That is very low. Be sure to follow the FC/CYA Levels

 

[proavia]

What test kit are you using?
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Enter all the results into PoolMath as you have linked your logs here.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temp

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

What test kit are you using?
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Enter all the results into PoolMath as you have linked your logs here.

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temp

FC 2.5
CC 0.0
PH 8.2
TA 110
CYA 70
SALT 3400
TEMP 82
IM using the TF PRO Salt testing kit.

 

[gingrbredman]

Ok thanks. It appeared extra red so figured it was higher than 8.2

The PH could very well be higher than 8.2, but you really should use the high end of the numbers for the app so you can slowly bring down the PH. If the PH was actually, say 9, and you had to add a gallon or more of acid, that's just too much of a single addition at once. Better to use the 8.2 @mknauss suggested and wait 30 minutes between each addition to get the PH down. You really want it in the 7's.

Do you have a lot of water features that run a lot? Trying to figure out why the PH is so high. PH and Chlorine seem to be out of whack, so not sure if it is the water features, or if you need to test more to keep up on it.

FC 2.5

How did the FC get so low? With a CYA level of 70, your minimum is 3 and the target 5. Getting below the minimum can be an invitation to some organics to hang around and with a CYA of 70, it gets harder to SLAM.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

The PH could very well be higher than 8.2, but you really should use the high end of the numbers for the app so you can slowly bring down the PH. If the PH was actually, say 9, and you had to add a gallon or more of acid, that's just too much of a single addition at once. Better to use the 8.2 @mknauss suggested and wait 30 minutes between each addition to get the PH down. You really want it in the 7's.

Do you have a lot of water features that run a lot? Trying to figure out why the PH is so high. PH and Chlorine seem to be out of whack, so not sure if it is the water features, or if you need to test more to keep up on it.


How did the FC get so low? With a CYA level of 70, your minimum is 3 and the target 5. Getting below the minimum can be an invitation to some organics to hang around and with a CYA of 70, it gets harder to SLAM.

I do have water features. Two 36" sheer waterfalls and two bubblers. I'm not sure why my FC is so low. Honestly I'm totally lost and have zero answers. I just adjusted my salt cell to 100% and boost and the app says that will raise my FC about 2.3 to get it closer to 5. I've added acid twice this morning, 19oz each time. I will add another 19 Oz again once I get back home.

 

[mknauss]

You likely to extend your pump run time. 2.3 ppm FC per day is low in your climate.

With those water features, do you have automation? You should consider not running those features continuously.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

You likely to extend your pump run time. 2.3 ppm FC per day is low in your climate.

With those water features, do you have automation? You should consider not running those features continuously.

Yes I have automation. I run water features 7am-7pm and I run my main 24/7 @ 1750 RPMS

 

[mknauss]

I suggest you only run the features when you wish to enjoy them. You will struggle with your water chemistry at your current settings.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

I suggest you only run the features when you wish to enjoy them. You will struggle with your water chemistry at your current settings.

Ok I will adjust those. All settings are where the PB set them at. I was wondering if I should adjust my main from 1750 24/7 to something else.

 

[mknauss]

You said earlier the swcg can only make 2.3 ppm FC per day. That seems odd if running 24 hours per day.
You likely can lower the rpm. Go down in 100 rpm increments until the flow switch on the swcg opens. Then add 200 rpm.

 

[gingrbredman]

One thing that will be helpful for you, that would be to fill out your signature. See this link for info: Create Your Signature - Further Reading This will give us information on your pool size, your pool surface, etc. and helps other users quickly assess your specific details and offer help quicker. See mine or any of the above for examples. Knowing all the details in this case will help us tweak those settings for an easier way to manage the water which, as you point out, seems to have gotten a little out of control.

I just adjusted my salt cell to 100% and boost and the app says that will raise my FC about 2.3 to get it closer to 5

Seeing your pool math logs, I can see you have a plaster pool, about 18k gallons. Not sure of the salt cell, but to get your chlorine up to level quickly, even with the cell, liquid chlorine is a good idea. A salt cell (when properly sized) is good for maintaining, but not as good for a real boost. According to pool math, 1 gallon of 10% bleach will raise your chlorine by 5.4. You could add that, and with the cell adding each day, and burning off 2-4 of chlorine per day, could maintain the 5ppm of chlorine. However, if your cell only produces 2.3 per day, running 24 hours per day, it seems undersized for your pool and you still may need to supplement with liquid chlorine just to keep up with the 5 needed.

I was wondering if I should adjust my main from 1750 24/7 to something else.

1,750 24/7 seems high, and probably not needed. A lot of us will run the pump low and slow 24/7, but at a level that keeps the flow through the salt cell and producing chlorine. As @mknauss points out, keep lowering the rpm until the flow rate warning is on the cell, then add 200 to that. Keep an eye on it for a day and make sure the cell keeps producing. Some have had to go up by 300 or 400 to find the perfect flow, but your cell will continually produce the chlorine and keep the pool skimming.

Not sure of automation, but if you tweak the settings for the water features, when you use them, the pump would ramp up to meet the demands of the features, cell, and still skim the pool.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

You said earlier the swcg can only make 2.3 ppm FC per day. That seems odd if running 24 hours per day.
You likely can lower the rpm. Go down in 100 rpm increments until the flow switch on the swcg opens. Then add 200 rpm.

That's what pool math stated based off my equipment and current readings

 

[jesse-99]

I do have water features. Two 36" sheer waterfalls and two bubblers. I'm not sure why my FC is so low. Honestly I'm totally lost and have zero answers. I just adjusted my salt cell to 100% and boost and the app says that will raise my FC about 2.3 to get it closer to 5. I've added acid twice this morning, 19oz each time. I will add another 19 Oz again once I get back home.

The question here is... How often do you run both water falls and both bubblers?

Like you, I have 2 waterfalls (60" drop), 2 bubblers, a waterslide, and a disappearing edge. ALL which create TONS of aeration and my pH constantly goes crazy up up up up up unless i combat it with low 60-70 TA. You might have to stop using the water features constantly if it's making you fight with the pH.

 

[KoolPoolDaDDy]

One thing that will be helpful for you, that would be to fill out your signature. See this link for info: Create Your Signature - Further Reading This will give us information on your pool size, your pool surface, etc. and helps other users quickly assess your specific details and offer help quicker. See mine or any of the above for examples. Knowing all the details in this case will help us tweak those settings for an easier way to manage the water which, as you point out, seems to have gotten a little out of control.


Seeing your pool math logs, I can see you have a plaster pool, about 18k gallons. Not sure of the salt cell, but to get your chlorine up to level quickly, even with the cell, liquid chlorine is a good idea. A salt cell (when properly sized) is good for maintaining, but not as good for a real boost. According to pool math, 1 gallon of 10% bleach will raise your chlorine by 5.4. You could add that, and with the cell adding each day, and burning off 2-4 of chlorine per day, could maintain the 5ppm of chlorine. However, if your cell only produces 2.3 per day, running 24 hours per day, it seems undersized for your pool and you still may need to supplement with liquid chlorine just to keep up with the 5 needed.


1,750 24/7 seems high, and probably not needed. A lot of us will run the pump low and slow 24/7, but at a level that keeps the flow through the salt cell and producing chlorine. As @mknauss points out, keep lowering the rpm until the flow rate warning is on the cell, then add 200 to that. Keep an eye on it for a day and make sure the cell keeps producing. Some have had to go up by 300 or 400 to find the perfect flow, but your cell will continually produce the chlorine and keep the pool skimming.

Not sure of automation, but if you tweak the settings for the water features, when you use them, the pump would ramp up to meet the demands of the features, cell, and still skim the pool.

Great info. I updated my signature.i do have automation I will Rpms to find right flow. Honestly a little overwhelmed with this whole DIY but I'll get the hang of it. I will look into the specs of my salt cell tomorrow. Thanks for all the help I will update on progress tomorrow