OMG OMG OMG!!! IT’S BLUE!!!! IT WORKED!!!!
If your FC is near zero, you need to test and dose more frequently. Any time FC drops below your min target (3 FC at CYA of 30), you risk algae gaining a foothold again.What do I do now?
Will update new test results when I get home later tonight.
Last night before I dumped 8 bottles of Liquid Chlorine in there the results were
FC = near zero (used about 10 dipper of R-8070 still didn’t turn pink)
pH = under 7.2
CYA = 30
Looks good! But be sure you pass the OCLT before ending the SLAM. The worst thing you can do now is stop too soon and let it go green again.
Okay just got home from work and re-tested the water again.
If your FC is near zero, you need to test and dose more frequently. Any time FC drops below your min target (3 FC at CYA of 30), you risk algae gaining a foothold again.
And one scoop of R-8070 is sufficient. If it doesn't turn pink, you have no FC. More scoops is just wasting it.
Looks good! But be sure you pass the OCLT before ending the SLAM. The worst thing you can do now is stop too soon and let it go green again.
Alright, I'm going to drop about 3.5 lbs of stabilizer into the pool now. I'm using the 10 ml one for the FC.If you can always see the dot during your CYA test, then it's 10 or less. So you're probably losing a lot of chlorine to UV burnoff.
Calculate the amount of CYA necessary to *raise* your level by 20 ppm (3.5 lbs for 20k gal per Pool Math) and add that ASAP. Wait 2 days then test it again. If the dot is still visible at 30, add another 10 ppm.
This should help keep your FC up. Keep dosing chlorine to 12 as frequently as possible.
Also, are you still using 25 ml of pool water for the FC test? If so, just use 10 ml, add one scoop of powder, and count each drop of R-0871 as .5. You don't need the accuracy of the 25 ml test.
Nope, always have been under 1 as far as I can remember. Didn’t bother testing CC since FC was below 1. Because even though I added like 10 dippers of R-0870 it is still not pink so I gave up.Has the pool recently ever had a readable FC level? What are your CCs?
OK, so something is eating up the chlorine. I was worried about ammonia. Clear pool seems pretty odd to have an ammonia issue though. That's typically more associated with swamps. If it were ammonia I would expect to see high CCs too, which would show up on that OTO test, and aren't. So likely not ammonia.
What's the date code on the chlorine? (Sorry if this was already checked, just making sure you don't have old chlorine.)
For what it's worth more powder isn't going to make a difference - one scoop is enough for the 10ml sample test. If there's any undissolved powder left in the sample when you swirl it, you have enough.
Alright, will do that. How much chlorine is 10ppm? I’m gonna dive in and manually vacuum the remaining algae in there. It’s okay if it goes insider the filter and then backwash later? I’m also suspecting aomething is broken inside the filter. I see a lot of sand in my pool, could be sand from the deck/floor getting blown in or it could be algae that looks like sand. Will upload pics when I get home. How would I know if the laterals are broken? Is there a way to check other then disassembling it, removing the sand and diving inside?22 144 is May 24, 2022 so that's pretty fresh. (For reference that's saying the 144th day of 2022, which is May 24th per internet search.)
Looks like your water is finishing clearing up, but my guess is you still have some algae in there. Can you add enough chlorine to get up to 10ppm, mix for 30 minutes, and test again?
FC - Below 0.5
PH - 7.6
TA - 100
CH - 140
CYA - 30
CYA is the most confusing for me. I mean, I can still see the black kinda. Do I need to add more stabilizers? I can’t throw in chlorine everyday just for the sun to eat up $30-$40 of chlorine everyday. This is so frustrating.
View attachment 424685