Baqua / Chlorine conversion

[ulphen]

Hi I am new to this forum and I hope that someone could help me with a question I have. I am going to convert my 40m2 (Thinks it is about 10000 gallons) baquacil (20-30ppm at the moment I think) pool to chlorine. I have read the guide here and other threads in the forum. I have also talked to the company that I bought the pool from and they say that I just should start to add chlorine tablets in small dosages instead and slowly increasing. Have anyone experience of doing it that way?

 

[Texas Splash]

Have anyone experience of doing it that way?

Won't work. Two big reasons:
1 - It takes a "significant" amount of chlorine to breakdown the baqua. a LOT. Tabs can't keep up with that demand.
2 - The last thing you want added to the water is stabilizer (CYA). It makes the conversion more difficult. Tabs of course add stabilizer.

Follow the TFP article and you'll do fine. A partial water exchange might be beneficial. Be sure to update your signature with all of your pool details and include which test kit you are using.

Welcome to TFP!

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Leebo]

First and foremost, WELCOME TO TFP!!!

Two quick questions,
1. Do you have a quality FAS/DPD test kit?
2. Are you open to simply draining and refilling the pool?

 

[mellison]

First and foremost, WELCOME TO TFP!!!

Two quick questions,
1. Do you have a quality FAS/DPD test kit?
2. Are you open to simply draining and refilling the pool?

What kind of test kit can I find one on amazon. I am trying to convert mine now.

 

[Newdude]

What kind of test kit can I find one on amazon. I am trying to convert mine now.

A Taylor k-2006C. The other kit is a TF100 from tftestkits.net. that one has an XL option which will ensure you don't run out of supplies from all the extra tests while converting.

Either kit that you choose, the smart stir is an amazing add on. It helps SO much with testing and increases the accuracy/repeatability. Nobody understands it until they have one, just trust me here.

 

[ulphen]

Hello and thanks for your replies. I think you all are right that the way I was recommended is not a good way to to it. Even talked to another so-called expert who also thought I should do it that way. To clarify they think that I should put in 10-20 day-tabs (same chlorine as shock I think without stabilizer (CYA)) every day. Maybe it works if you have the patient to keep adding them for a long time. But I need to get started with the pool soon.

1. Do you have a quality FAS/DPD test kit?
2. Are you open to simply draining and refilling the pool?

1. Yes I think I get a pretty good electronical one to meassure chlorine levels. Phmb I test manually with tablets. I let the pool guy test it some weeks ago with his device and it was 28ppm then.
2. Yes I am. Water is pretty cheap where I live so I am thinking about that. Draining the pool is a little bit scary though but my poolmanufacturer says that it should be no problem if the pool is constructed correctly and if I leave 10 cm of water at the bottom. Would draining the pool and leaving the last 10 cm be enough you think to get rid of the baqua?

 

[Newdude]

Would draining the pool and leaving the last 10 cm be enough you think to get rid of the baqua?

You want 30 cm + of water to hold the corners of the vinyl liner in place. If there is a deep end, that means 30 cm in the shallow end, so there will still be half of the old water left, but you'll only have half of the battle when you refill.

 

[ulphen]

You want 30 cm + of water to hold the corners of the vinyl liner in place. If there is a deep end, that means 30 cm in the shallow end, so there will still be half of the old water left, but you'll only have half of the battle when you refill.

There is no shallow end except that I got a staircase on one end so leaving some water will still change most of the water

 

[Newdude]

OK great, you'll get close to 70% out with no deep end. Over here we reccomend to pay close attention to the wall and floor corners at 45 cm and drain no more than leaving 30 cm.

 

[ulphen]

OK great, you'll get close to 70% out with no deep end. Over here we reccomend to pay close attention to the wall and floor corners at 45 cm and drain no more than leaving 30 cm.

Thanks. If I am correct that would take my baqua level down to around 8ppm. Another way to get the same result I think would be to drain it 50% twice. Maybe that is safer? But roughly how much faster/easier will the conversion be if I do this first?

 

[Newdude]

Another way to get the same result I think would be to drain it 50% twice.

Yes. Exactly. The second half also drains half of the fresh half that you already added.

But roughly how much faster/easier will the conversion be if I do this first?

There is no standard of how much chlorone you will need, no two pools are the same. But. The more water you exchange, the easier it will it be for however difficult your pool was going to be.

 

[ulphen]

Ok thanks for the help. I think I go for two 50% drains before I start then.

 

[ulphen]

A little progress report. I drained 50% of the pool on thursday. Now I cant see the difference between my tap water and the pool water when I test it with my test kit (tablets). I am considering skipping another partial drain because of that and continue with the conversion.

 

[Texas Splash]

If you do begin the conversion now, be sure to have your test kit with FAS-DPD to test the elevated FC level as noted in the conversion article. You have to follow those instructions precisely. You'll know soon if you exchanged enough water to proceed.

Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine

This Step-by-step guide will help you transform your pool from Biguanide (Baquacil, SoftSwim hereafter referred to as Baqua) to chlorine. Read more

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[kimkats]

Please take pics of the *pretty colors* (note the sarcasm) LOL as you start the conversion!

 

[ulphen]

Finally found some liquid chlorine at a pool store in a nearby city. I found out tough that is not pure Sodium hypochlorite. It also contains less then one percent sodium hydroxide. Would that be a problem? If it isn´t I will probably begin on thursday with the process.

 

[mgtfp]

Sodium Hydroxide is there due to the manufacturing process, entirely normal.

 

[IceShadow]

Finally found some liquid chlorine at a pool store in a nearby city. I found out tough that is not pure Sodium hypochlorite. It also contains less then one percent sodium hydroxide. Would that be a problem? If it isn´t I will probably begin on thursday with the process.

Pure sodium hypochlorite would be rather dangerous and degrade quickly anyway. Most liquid chlorine meant for pools will be 10% or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite.

As mentioned, the sodium hydroxide is part of the manufacturing process and of no concern. It's lye.

 

[ulphen]

Ok today is the day.

Two more questions. I have a pool roof. witch I can swim under. 4 segments that I can move separate. Should I have it open or closed. I think maybe its best to have the pool partly closed so I both protect the CL against the sun but also let it vent. Any suggestions?

Also if I uses up all liquid chlorine would it be ok to use some Calcium Hypochlorite towards the end. I need to drive far to get liquid chlorine and it is also quite expensive where I live. We have soft water where I live so I always had to add hardness to my pool water when using Baquacil. Maybe that is even good for my pool? Bleach is also to weak over here to be priceworthy for this.

 

[ulphen]

Actually have a third question also. Read in a local pool forum that phmb decomposes to ammonia and urea and that the later is something you want to avoid in your pool. No idea if the guy knew what he was talking about. But it made think a bit about whether there are any health aspects to the conversion. Anyone who knows more about that?