I highlight the 10ml now on all kits because the way it's printed is very misleading.
Is it time to go with a SWG?
- Thread starter David0408
- Start date
Turbo1Ton
Gold Supporter
- Dec 26, 2019
- 1,995
- Pool Size
- 14500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I don’t see a bonding wire on my existing equipment. Sounds important that I should have one.
RJ60? just lift from the bottom and it hinges from the top. The latch is a friction fit snap.
I think mine has some extra friction. No big deal. It’s installed and working and it’s glorious.
Actually, I might have that backwards. Hinge on the bottom. I’d go out and check right now but we got 6” of snow on the ground. It was 68 a couple days ago.
Yes, hinge is on the bottom. It has two tabs at the top on either side that just need to be worn down a bit with use.
Berger82
0
Mine was the same, super hard to open up. It will ease up after a bit.
Just went outside to do some inner tubing and my door was already open. I guess they really do get loose over time.
I have SWG for 12 years, on my second generator. Love it. After startup I spend about $20-$40 a summer on salt, that's it!
Especially since it's not even a 25ml tube -- the 25ml mark is only about halfway up, just happens to be the highest mark. So calling out a number that isn't relevant is definitely misleading. I know I did it wrong at least once with the K-1766. The salt test instructions on the lid of the K-2006 are clearer, just saying "rinse and fill sample tube to 10ml mark". Of course, the kit doesn't even come with those reagents, so that in and of itself could be confusing!
The cell runs a self check once or twice a day and as long as it was happy, i'd move along to something else. You can't argue with the cell and give it better test results to win the argument. So while your test is great to know where you are at, its still only matters where the cell thinks its at.
I specifically ran mine low at 3k for less tatse and the cell would work at least to 2800. Everyones milage may vary with different manufactures and pool locations. Temp affects the cells electrical reading.
The SWG has changed my life btw! No more bleach shortages, no more lugging gallons of bleach, no more bleach stained shirts, NO MORE!!
Should I use the same strategy when cleaning the cell? I can see build up on the plates now. Should I go ahead and clean the cell or just wait for the light to come on?
I don't believe so. I'm pretty sure that build-up will decrease the efficiency of the cell.
Hang tight for some CSI / plaster folks. Post a full set of #s when you get a minute of the pool and your fill water. If you're getting buildup you are likely out of range for CSI.
Oly
Gold Supporter
Monitor your cell and note the voltage range changes and calculated salinity relative to your known tested result. When scale accumulates on the cell the voltage will drop and the calculated salinity will drop, eventually resulting a low salt light then shut down. When this happens it's time to clean the cell plates. Lowering my TA and pH slows scale buildup as does keeping my CSI well negative, but my surface is fiberglass.
I have found running a lower rpm and flow rate will increase the calculated salt level and prevent a low salt shut down, everything else being the same.
I have found running a lower rpm and flow rate will increase the calculated salt level and prevent a low salt shut down, everything else being the same.