Adding used heater to existing pool system

[jnssctt]

I have the following: 14K gal pool, StaRite SuperMax VS var spd pump, StaRite Vertical Grid filter S8D110 DE & Pentair model 320 chlorinator. We just picked up 4-yr old StaRite Max SR400LP & just picked up the orifice to convert to NA.

I assume the newly acquired heater will connect to this system, no issues. Just add after heater & before chlorinator & add valves to bypass heater. Any suggestions here?

Saw mention of a fireman's switch. What do I need to do here, if anything?

My pump is variable speed. Is there an output contact to wire to the heater to be sure the heater doesn't run when the pump is off? Or can you set the heater to only run for a certain amount of time which would be less than when the pump runs?

I do not have a gas line run to the heater area yet. It's about a 65' run. Wondering if I can install my own line since it's a straight shot down the side of the house & is it best/easiest to use polyethylene (special tools needed) or galvanized or black iron pipe. Would you install underground or above ground? Depth or height for each option? I believe 65' requires 1-1/4" for the 400K btu. But the fittings at the gas meter look like 3/4". Is it ok to upsize after meter and then downsize again where it enters heater?

If I choose to have the work done due to all of the coordination needed between system parts, any idea of cost? Is there a single person I can call to do the entire heater install? Would you check with a local pool co like Leslie's or Pinch a penny? Other?

Thanks for your help in advance.

"New to Tampa & pool life"

 

[wireform]

Yes it'll go between the filter and the chlorinator but a bypass would be great to have and of course a check valve on the chlorinator so the acid can't migrate back to the heater. Gas meter is definitely too small and needs to be upgraded.

 

[jnssctt]

Yes it'll go between the filter and the chlorinator but a bypass would be great to have and of course a check valve on the chlorinator so the acid can't migrate back to the heater. Gas meter is definitely too small and needs to be upgraded.

Thanks. What tells you the meter is too small? 14"WC or the pipe fittings?

 

[wireform]

Let have a picture of the meter label to see the cubic foot capacity.

 

[jnssctt]

Let have a picture of the meter label to see the cubic foot capacity.

Someone painted over the labels. Last pics seem to show 275 CFH, 5 PSI, CL 250.

 

[jnssctt]

Someone painted over the labels. Last pics seem to show 275 CFH, 5 PSI, CL 250.

So 275 CFH = ~250K BTU correct? I see what you mean when my heater is 400K + hot water heater + stove. I'll check with TECO and see if they swap out for free or $'s.

 

[PoolGate]

I would place the heater myself and plumb (water) it in and then call a gas plumber to run the gas line and do the final hookups. If you feel comfortable with electric, that too or else call an electrician. It is possible (probable) that your meter will need to be replaced with one of higher capacity. 400k btus is probably 3x what every other appliance in your house uses combined.

Be prepared for sticker shock with the gas line. I got a quote of $4k to run 75 feet with no digging since the trench was already there from the electrician. Get many quotes!

 

[an1vrsy]

Definitely get multiple plumbing estimates.

It’s hard to do apples to apples, I’m in NV, you’re in FL and @PoolGate is in Maryland. However during my pool build (fall, 2020) when the plumber were excavating the pvc dig they also did the gas line dig, 195’. My plumbing estimate was broken down, line by line. The gas run, the dig and laying the pipe to the gas meter was $1,975. They capped it at both ends and pressure tested it. Because it was a new build the city inspectors had to visit first as part of my permit and sign off. The gas company then came out after and did the final hookup to the heater and the gas meter after upsizing the meter.

 

[wireform]

The meter will surely need upgrading.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Agree with getting a gas plumber to do the hook up's and run the line. Gas is one thing you absolutely want to get a licensed plumber to do because, if you make a mistake, it can be both catastrophic and completely your liability. Also, many gas companies won't let you touch their equipment so you might as well contact them first and find out what's needed for an upgrade (you absolutely need an upgraded meter). They may even have a list of licensed gas plumbers that they would provide for their customers ... my brother did some gas appliance upgrades in his home in Missouri and the gas company gave him a list of preferred plumbers to work with.

If you can run an above ground connection, then the best option would be to use galvanized pipe and run the pipe from the high pressure side of the regulator to your equipment pad. Then you add a shutoff and regulator at the heater. This has the benefit of allowing you to tweak the gas supply pressure independently of the appliances in the house. Sometimes when you run off the low pressure side, pressure drops can cause issues with the heater. The type of piping used will be determined by code and whether or not it's direct buried.

 

[BMerrill]

Gas company will most likely change the gas meter to a AC630 with a 2PSI regulator.

On a 2PSI system, the branch line serving the house will need a 14"WC regulator.
The heater branch line minimum size is 3/4" black iron pipe on a 2PSI system for a run between 50-100 feet, but 1" is prefered. Install a gas valve just after the new tee at the meter going to the heater branch line. If you hire a gas fitter, they would most likely use underground 3/4" poly to eliminate a lot of fittings (possible leaks). Within 6 feet of the cabinet install a 10"WC regulator; and before entering the cabine install a gas valve, reduce to 3/4", tee with a 4" drip leg.

On a 14"WC system, the heater branch line would require 1-1/4".

 

[1poolman1]

Do yourself a big favor and DO NOT use that tablet feeder, even with a check valve. Even the "chemically resistant" check valves that Rainbow (now Pentair) sells, or used to sell, will allow the highly corrosive "soup" to flow backwards out of the feeder, especially into the very-low plumbing on those heaters, when the pump is off. They will fail and you have no way of knowing as they are opaque and sealed. I have had to replace too many of those heaters because of that issue, and even ones that have the plumbing higher. I won't install a heater to a system with a tab feeder, in-line or off-line. Feeders were originally designed to be used on commercial pools where the pumps often run 24/7, but are now illegal in many areas on commercial pools. They only add chlorine when the pump is on anyway. You are better off using a floating chlorinator for tablets.

 

[jnssctt]

Do yourself a big favor and DO NOT use that tablet feeder, even with a check valve. Even the "chemically resistant" check valves that Rainbow (now Pentair) sells, or used to sell, will allow the highly corrosive "soup" to flow backwards out of the feeder, especially into the very-low plumbing on those heaters, when the pump is off. They will fail and you have no way of knowing as they are opaque and sealed. I have had to replace too many of those heaters because of that issue, and even ones that have the plumbing higher. I won't install a heater to a system with a tab feeder, in-line or off-line. Feeders were originally designed to be used on commercial pools where the pumps often run 24/7, but are now illegal in many areas on commercial pools. They only add chlorine when the pump is on anyway. You are better off using a floating chlorinator for tablets.

Did you have a check valve to keep chlorine from seeping back to the heater?