Texas Ice Storm ... Woke up to 1/3 Pool Drained

[Stoopalini]

So on Tuesday, I prepared the house for this storm. For the pool, I planned to do what I did last year: tarp the equipment pad and let the pump run through the event. For the autofill, I turned the water supply off to it, opened the spigot I have on the autofill piping to drain it, and then covered it with a freeze protection bag

Doing this last yeear, I made it through with the only casualty being an internal part of the backflow preventor on the autofill ... even with 5-6 hours of power loss at times.

Well, this morning, the pool was 1/3 drained! I went out to the pad, and the relief valve on top of the Pentiar CC420 had snapped off at the base, so the pump was pumping the water out onto the ground through the hole.

I turned the system off, and initially tried to make a plug, to seal it and start the system back up ... but, seeing as the water in the pool is below the return jets, I decided to drain the equipment instead.

So I pulled the SWCG out, pulled the drain plug out of the CC420, pulled both plugs on the VS pump, and pulled the plumbing connections off of the Aquacal heater.

Question: Does anyone know if there is a drain plug on the Aquacal, or is pulling both unions off enough to get all the standing water out of it?

As for the pool, I pulled the skimmer baskets out and dropped an empty waterbottle with some gravel in it, into each skimmer. Not sure what to do with the autofill?

I then dropped a hose in, and started filling the pool. I'm concerned the return jets are exposed to the air, and I know there's still water in those pipes underground. I'm thinking it's best if I can get the water level to be just over the returns, to prevent those pipes from freezing. My equipment pad is about 12" above the pool's water line, so I'd say a good 24 - 36" above the return jets. So covering the return jets with the pool's water level won't result in water getting into the pipes at the equipment pad.

Anything else I should be doing at this time? I think I have it all covered, except or the aquacal heater and not knowing if there's a drain plug on it.

 

[Texas Splash]

I would try to stuff something into the autofill to be safe there as well.

Does anyone know if there is a drain plug on the Aquacal, or is pulling both unions off enough to get all the standing water out of it?

I think it depends on your model. The link below had quite a few models and info.

Winterizing

www.aquacal.com

 

[Stoopalini]

Ya, thanks ... that page doesn't have anything on my model. It's the SQ150VS.

Unfortunately, Aquacal doesn't even tell you if the model has an external or an internal drain plug

Winterizing a Titanium Equipped Heat Pump - AquaCal Website

Disconnect all electrical power to the heater; turn OFF circulating pump. At the two (2) connection unions, disconnect the plumbing to the heater (removal is co

www.aquacal.com

 

[Newdude]

Looks like aquacal has 3 choices and only one sytle has drain plugs. It said to remove the access panel and see if there was a drain plug on the titanium exchanger. They are usually nut looking plugs on heaters instead of the finger twisty ones like the pump.

 

[Newdude]

Found a better manual. No drains but the one with the coil needs to be blown out. A shop vac exhaust port or a leaf blower should work fine with such a short distance.
Here are the 3 styles and recommendations

 

[Stoopalini]

I just pulled the cover and did not see a drain plug inside. The inlet pipe is the lowest part of the internal plumbing, as it extends into the unit about 18 inches, and then has a 90* upward turn into the internal components; so I'm feeling pretty good that it's completely drained.

I also checked on the autofill, and it's empty due to the pool level being below the fitting on the pool wall which connects back to the autofill's canister.

All but one return jet is now underwater, with the water level just touching the bottom of the last return jet's trim ring. I figure within the hour, it should be underwater again.

Then I'll turn the water off, re-winterize the spigot I'm using, and just wait for the thaw.

 

[Texas Splash]

and just wait for the thaw.

Made for an exciting day. Time to get warm.

 

[Stoopalini]

LOL, definitely.

I've no idea how the relief valve broke off like that. It wasn't frozen. It snapped at the base, leaving the threads inside the filter cover.

 

[Texas Splash]

You're not the only one.

Jandy filter gauge just broke off

So I am out at the equipment, when to clean the face of the gauge, the entire gauge and stem just break off the filter body? WTH??? Are you kidding me? i assume this can be replace, the gauge that is.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[jark87]

That’s weird. Maybe it snapped when you were putting the tarp on? If so, you’d think that it would have been noticeable.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

That is a very common failure mode for the high flow air relief valve especially if was installed and twisted on too hard. That male threaded plastic stem needs to be Teflon taped and HAND-TIGHT only. If someone puts a wrench on it, the plastic can fracture. It got cold enough out for the plastic to become brittle and, as a result of the water pressure spike, it broke. I have replaced a few of these in the past, if it leaks it’s almost always at the pressure gauge connection or at the tank connection.

 

[Newdude]

I'm sure its the finest cost effective part that 18 cents can buy. The replacement part, of the same standards ? Well, that'll be $79.99 plus tax and shipping because they have one and you don't.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I'm sure its the finest cost effective part that 18 cents can buy. The replacement part, of the same standards ? Well, that'll be $79.99 plus tax and shipping because they have one and you don't.

Last time I bought one, it cost about $40.

To remove the threaded piece of plastic, you need to get a pipe nipple extractor and carefully unscrew the plastic. Don’t use a lot of force or else you can damage the threads on the tank.

 

[Stoopalini]

Thanks guys ... the part was not threaded in tightly, but also it didn't have teflon tape on it either.

I was able to back out the broken threaded piece with just my fingers ... Although I suppose it could have been tightened too much, and then after it broke, the threaded piece no longer had the tension on it since it seats against the finlter cover itself for tension.

Now that I think about it, I'll bet the PB's plumber did crank it down, as the plumber wasn't of the highest quality/skill. I ordered a replacement on Amazon for $25. Decided to get a new gauge too for another $13, since it fell to the ground and had water inside the gauge reading glass.

The valve I ordered isn't Pentair branded, but it can be delivered next week vs. the Pentair branded one was estimating between Feb 28 and March 14 ...

This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09J75V3G2

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Thanks guys ... the part was not threaded in tightly, but also it didn't have teflon tape on it either.

I was able to back out the broken threaded piece with just my fingers ... Although I suppose it could have been tightened too much, and then after it broke, the threaded piece no longer had the tension on it since it seats against the finlter cover itself for tension.

Now that I think about it, I'll bet the PB's plumber did crank it down, as the plumber wasn't of the highest quality/skill. I ordered a replacement on Amazon for $25. Decided to get a new gauge too for another $13, since it fell to the ground and had water inside the gauge reading glass.

The valve I ordered isn't Pentair branded, but it can be delivered next week vs. the Pentair branded one was estimating between Feb 28 and March 14 ...

This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09J75V3G2

That will work fine. Just make sure you tape the threads and, if you want, you add some Teflon paste as well (it won’t hurt anything). Hand tight is all it needs. Also, when adding the gauge, make sure you are very careful. The brass male nipple on the bottom can easily split the threaded plastic opening. I would put it on hand tight as well with tape and then snug it with a short wrench only if it appears to leak.

In the future, go get a outdoor spigot cover bag (made by 3M) and cover the valve and gauge with it to keep it from freezing.

 

[Stoopalini]

Last year the tarp over the equipment seemed to be enough, but the spigot cover bag is a good idea as well, and I have several extra laying around.

I think it's as you suggested though, in that the plastic was weakened by being overtight, and then the drastic heat and cold cycles it's gone through while being under that stress.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Geez! I wouldn't even have thought about that part giving way. For the $25 I think I may order one just to keep on hand. I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on mine and pull it and check it out once the weather warms up.

Sorry you are having to deal with that! Hopefully you were able to get everything drained and cleared out.

--Jeff

 

[atleyjh]

Geez! I wouldn't even have thought about that part giving way. For the $25 I think I may order one just to keep on hand. I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on mine and pull it and check it out once the weather warms up.

Sorry you are having to deal with that! Hopefully you were able to get everything drained and cleared out.

--Jeff

Another thing that could’ve happened is if you’re tarping it, that gauge could be getting torqued/pressured quite a bit from the tarp itself if it’s windy, considering it’s typically the highest point on the pad and where the “top of the tent” would be. Some 15-20mph gusts could’ve caused the damage. I once had a backyard dog run (metal chain link fenced) that I placed a tarp over to give my dog some shade. One morning after a big wind storm the entire metal frame of the dog run was mangled & twisted.

 

[Stoopalini]

Another thing that could’ve happened is if you’re tarping it, that gauge could be getting torqued/pressured quite a bit from the tarp itself if it’s windy, considering it’s typically the highest point on the pad and where the “top of the tent” would be. Some 15-20mph gusts could’ve caused the damage. I once had a backyard dog run (metal chain link fenced) that I placed a tarp over to give my dog some shade. One morning after a big wind storm the entire metal frame of the dog run was mangled & twisted.

It's possible, but unlikely in my situation. The tarp is held down on the front side with stone blocks on the ground, but the back side is about 3ft up, against my home's exterior. It wasn't really putting any pressure on the gauge assembly, but I could see high winds maybe causing a push on it.

I was pretty cautious to ensure the tarp was leaving enough room under it as well, to not block the air flow in and out of the pump, as well as not pulling on any of the piping.

I'm pretty sure in my case, the plastic had just weakened over time and the extreme cold with the increase in pressure caused it to fail.

 

[Stoopalini]

Geez! I wouldn't even have thought about that part giving way. For the $25 I think I may order one just to keep on hand. I'm definitely gonna keep an eye on mine and pull it and check it out once the weather warms up.

Sorry you are having to deal with that! Hopefully you were able to get everything drained and cleared out.

--Jeff

Ya, thanks ... it was surprising to say the least!

I haven't done anything with it yet, except filled the pool up enough to cover the return jets. The replacement part is scheduled for delivery on Tuesday, and we still have a couple of night of 20's still to go ... so I'm just going to leave the equipment drained and disconnected until later this week.